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Hi Guys
Having a few problems with my sons LH Torana. Can anyone tell me if we should always have 12 volts feed to the ignition coil in the on position and also the start position through the ignition switch.Weve had a few issues with volt drop to the coil at slower revs when the head lights are on and the car stalls some times.When checking voltages to the coil the voltage drops a good couple of volts with the lights on and will then rise when turning them off. I decided to install an ignition relay so as to have a constant 12 volts + when the relay is energized and have the relay initiated through the ignition switch.the only problem was that when you went from ignition switch on to start the power dropped to 0 volts another words seemed to loose contact in the ignition switch.the book clearly shows the wire to the ignition coil is the yellow is this correct as we only had 12 volts in the start position and then it cut power back in the on position.We currently are trying the brown colour from the ignition switch but it still powers the ignition circuit when in accessories.
Can anyone shed some light as I would have thought that we should have 12 volts in the on & starting position as this is how I wired my hotrod ignition switch
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Hi fitzsi.
No, if the wiring is factory standard & youre still running points ignition, then you will only have 8 or 9 volts at the ignition coil at idle. You will however have full battery voltage while cranking. This is the way all Toranas (& all Holdens from EH to HZ) are wired.
It is possible that you have a crook ignition switch or even a crook alternator (or similar) but get a circuit diagram & follow the wiring & use a proper test light. Dont bodgey it up by fitting a relay, this only partially covers the fault & delays the inevitable.
Dr Terry. |
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There should be a resistor built into the coil wire to drop the voltage while running, its shown on the factory diagram, its meant to make the points last a bit longer. If you are running an electronic dizzy 12V is fine.
James
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You only have to be in front at the end of the race. |
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I beleive the story is that when your cranking over your motor and large amps are drawn from the battery, the post voltage will drop down to about 9v. So the coil will still get its designed supply volts. (eg- full spark on those very cold mornings etc...)And then once fired and the ignition switch is now in the run position it now gets it 8/9 volts via the pink resistance wire from the switch. Hence thats why most of your acc feeds are cut off, so the battery has no other load to contend with while cranking.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks guys.Now that I know that there is a resistor in the wire.The manual I have does not show this.Just as well it,s only from the library.
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