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Hi Guys,
I am hoping one of our esteemed mechanics can give me some guidance on an engine rebuild I am contemplating?
I have a "black" 308 block, standard bore. The motor has been completely re-built, new rings bearings ect but nothing fancy! A pair of big valve "B" cast "black" heads and a Cain tunnel ram inlet manifold. I have also picked up a set of roller rockers in my travels!
I am wanting to put this into a HJ Coupe with a Trimatic that has a 2800 stall and a stock rear end.
I am not after a race car, more a reliable cruiser with a bit of the "old school" muscle look!
My question is what cam would the experts recommend? Do I need to fit stronger valve springs? What about carbys? I was thinking of a pair of 465 four barrels?
As I said the motor is not going to have its neck rung so can anyone recommend a reliable combination based on what I already have and let me know what I need to get?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers,
Allan
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unless your gunna ring its neck you might aswell remove the tunnel ram as its useless untill high revs. your springs will have to suite your cam aswell. if you want reliabilty call crow and purchase a cam that will suite your heads, manifold?? and stall, diff ect.. and tell them what you want outa it. if you want an oldschool tuff look why not a 4 barrel manifold with your holley to suite and a alloy bug catcher on top??
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
Havent you learnt anything from that guy that gives sermons at church?...Captain whats his name. |
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Also keep all the old parts. One day you may want to put the HJ Coupe back to original. Those coupes are reasonably rare.
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Rank: Member
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It doesnt have its original motor, box or diff so I dont think I am hurting it by doing something different. The bits are all sitting in the shed so I thought f#@k it you only live once! I would still like to do the tunnel ram idea as I have the majority of what I need. Well see what the cam supplier has to say!
Cheers,
Allan
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Itd go heaps better with an Edelbrock Performer or HDT valley.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
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Tunnel rams are designed to work starting around 4500 rpm.
therefor you should run a 4500 stall to match, and a cam to match....
Which adds up to a very expensive bottom end to cope with rpm from 4500 to 8500 rpm...
If you dont run the specs to match the tunnel ram, its only good for looks.
WANTED:
-2 14 x 9.25 CSA style Centrelines.
-2 x 15 x 8 Dragway centrelines |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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Hi Adam,
Many thanks for your post! Exactly what I wanted to know.
Cheers,
Allan
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Rank: Member
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Just out of interest what would need to be done to the bottom end to make the best use of the tunnel ram?
Cheers,
Allan
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Allen , in a nutshell....fast spinning(they work really well at high revs)
Jim in adelaide |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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manualised trimatic would be needed.
Engine bottom end, knife edged crank, HV oil pump, Full ARP fastner kit, balanced, lightened flywheel, hi quality rods etc etc...$$$$$$
WANTED:
-2 14 x 9.25 CSA style Centrelines.
-2 x 15 x 8 Dragway centrelines |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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Maybe this is the answer hes looking for:
Yes you can have the tunnel ram and not do much else. It looks hot and adds street cred. Like me with my twin carb setup thats oversized and runs rich as hell, but i love the looks. Haha.
However, itll be a bit of a pig to live with if you just plonk it on a stock or mild street motor. To maximise its potential youre looking at a fully rebuilt bottom end designed with revs in mind, and all the ancillaries to go with that. If you build that motor, youll quickly destroy your drivetrain if you use to its potential. So itll mean gearbox, tailshaft, diff.
So you go for looks and not function, or you do it properly. |
"Silly modern cars" |
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