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I got a HZ tonner trying my hardest to get on the road but i have a elec problem stopping it from runing. When i turn the key she starts sweet let the key off i lose all spark i have had a (look) behind the dash nothing melted or (looking)out of place
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start it up but dont let the ignition spring all the way back, hold it just so the starter isnt running
if it still runs fine then its your ignition switch that needs adjusting
to adjust loosen the two 5/16th bolts that go into the columb and slide it up towards the steering wheel a little bit, it has probley just moved doen a little bit
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Yep that would be my bet too.
Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision! |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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i had this exact problem in my HQ a few years ago, thats why i know this problem
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i agree.
does this mean that davey boy, jim and me are smart???
"Reputations are made and broken as soon as you enter or leave my shed.."
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absolutely!
Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision! |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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Could also be a burnt out or broken resistor wire. Ive seen this sympton before on cars with external coil resistor when the resistor burns out.
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Byron,Valiants had that problem also I recollect.That white ceramic thingy. Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision! Edited by user Thursday, 4 February 2010 6:08:36 AM(UTC)
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Jim in Adelaide.. |
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Holden inbuilt a resistor wire into the ignition circuit. If the adjustment of the ignition switch is unsuccessful depending on the options fitted you may find a yellow or lime green wire in the ignition harness that is a resistor wire. To test place a test light on the neg side of the coil to a goodearth turn the ignition to the on position the light should be on if it isnt resistor probs light will come on if the engine is cranked.
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cheers guys i will have a crack. Does anyone know someone desent that can rebuld my M21 in brisbane? some of the guys i have talked to i wouldnt let them near a ford let alone my HOLDEN!
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the resistor wire is pink not yellow or green.
It starts at the fuse box and goes through to the coil.
It is not likely the problem unless it has come loose or disconnected.
To get a temporary start run a lead from a live circuit on the fuse box or the battery to the connector the pink wire goes to on the coil but this will burn the coil out if you run it too long, just use it for test start/run, if that starts it then it is the resistor wire. otherwise fit a 12 volt coil and run it. If you have a 6 cylinder do the smart thing and fit electronic ignition and coil off a VH or injected VK 6.
Also check the fuses.
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John, I think he means the heat resistant sleeve you find around the resistor wire in HK-HG when you pull the harness apart. Its a yellowy green colour.
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quote:
Originally posted by scrappy
cheers guys i will have a crack. Does anyone know someone desent that can rebuld my M21 in brisbane? some of the guys i have talked to i wouldnt let them near a ford let alone my HOLDEN!
What sort of M21? Aussie, Saginaw, Muncie? _______________________________________________________ If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
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(((What sort of M21? Aussie, Saginaw, Muncie?)))
Yeah umm??..... (dumb questions for dumb people!) i couldnt tell you mate which one it is. As much as i know its a hz tonner with a 253 red, top to bottom stock as a rock..... please excuse my ignorance
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[/quote]
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quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
Could also be a burnt out or broken resistor wire. Ive seen this sympton before on cars with external coil resistor when the resistor burns out.
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when trying to start the bit*h with a fuel pump issue i did get a puff of smoke come out of the dash! burnt out resistor wire? and i did put a test light on the coil with the ignition on didnt get a glow... so fair to say shes cooked?
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Wont be totally stock as a HZ tonner with 253 didnt have an M21 aussie 4spd. Either its been changed or its an M20 aussie 4spd. In any case, assuming its an aussie 4spd they cost the same to rebuild as they are all the same thing except for a few teeth on the gears either way (M22, M21 or M20). As a first pass Id call Reece at Kingswood Country in Victoria and see who buys lots of new 4spd stuff off him in Brisbane, and then call them. The boxes are really easy to rebuild anyway so most gearbox shops can do it. My guess is youll need the following as a minimum:
Rebuild kit;
Circlip missing from rebuild kit;
Front and rear bearings;
1st gear;
2 or 3 Synchros (maybe all 4 of them);
Cluster gear.
On top of all that you might also need an input shaft, main shaft and second gear.
So if you need all these bits you may as well buy a 3rd gear as well and you can make it any box you want (M21, M20, M22 or XU-1 even). If its used for everyday driving and never loaded or tows an M21 or XU-1 ratio set is OK behind a 253 but if you tow, carry a load or reverse up a driveway keep it as an M20.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
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quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
Wont be totally stock as a HZ tonner with 253 didnt have an M21 aussie 4spd. Either its been changed or its an M20 aussie 4spd. In any case, assuming its an aussie 4spd they cost the same to rebuild as they are all the same thing except for a few teeth on the gears either way (M22, M21 or M20:
thanks for that mate. so dont have my pants pulled down over the cost of the rebuild what sort of coin am i looking at
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