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Hi Guys,
Well after 3 days of being a grease monkey my VK now has a turbo 700 instead of the traumatic! I thought Id share my experience for those of you contemplating the same thing!
I sourced a caslemaine adapter (Absolute pain in the butt to get the tranny mated to the adapter as you have to keep turning the offset bolts till they all line up which is so much harder than you'd think) and had to cut off about 25mm of the right and left bellhousing sections of the tranny to get it to clear the extractors. I have used the original trans mount and made a plate to bolt it to the trans because the mount position is probably about an inch closer to the engine than the trimatic ( I have since been to the wreckers and noticed the vn mount is an offset mount this could perhaps fit I will try it down the track).
The rear right corner of the trans touches the side of the tunnel and chassis rail that the trans mount bolts to - had I known this before I would have given it a bit of a belt with the mallet first but I have wedged a bit of rubber inbetween for now as I can't quite get to it without removing the trans and I'm definately not doing that again until I have to!
I joined the front half of a VN V8 tailshaft to my current one - it would be perfect if I didn't have to use the holden to chev adapter to fit the trans but with the adapter it is touch and go as to whether I will have to get it shortened - there was a little movement left in the rear section so I modified the centre bearing mount to sit back slightly for now.
Cooler lines were no trouble and for the tv cable I went to wreckers and took a VN v6 bracket and cut it in half lenthways and drilled 2 holes in it and mounted it to the inlet manifold using 2 of the manifold bolts. I then measured and drilled a hole in the carb 28mm from pivot point and cut the end off the cable and replaced it with an adjustable clamp which seems to work alright (I haven't driven the car yet though!).
Just have to do the electrics now-been reading up and will bypass the temperature switch so that 4th gear is always locked up. Has anyone else here done this? I will drop the sump tonight and tackle it apparently the temp sensor is easy to spot although I don't have any photos if anyone knows where I will find a photo or can describe it to me it would be fantastic.
The only thing left then will be to mod the selector (I can not manually select 1 or 2 at the moment) and to hook up speedo ( it is a vk calais so electronic but I have yet to work out how to hook the vss sensor direct to the dash.....that will be the last issue i think!)
Anyway hope this helps someone!
Andy
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Hey Macca,
I need to clarify something.
You bought an adapter (which was a hassle to bolt up) and then had to modify the adaptor or the actual box to make it work?
Nicho.
Iam a fuel injected suicide machine! |
Iam a fuel injected suicide machine! |
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quote:
Originally posted by Nicho71TPI
Hey Macca,
I need to clarify something.
You bought an adapter (which was a hassle to bolt up) and then had to modify the adaptor or the actual box to make it work?
Nicho.
Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
this suprises you why exactly? Best part is, in the old days youd ring up and complain and be told "if you cant work it out you shouldnt be messing with cars" lol. In this case though, it sounds like the width of the bellhousing was the problem, not the adapter plate. 11.38@117 Edited by user Tuesday, 20 April 2010 10:04:42 PM(UTC)
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Hi Nicho,
The adapter was easy to bolt to the block (only 2 bolts) but it was hard to get the trans to mate to the adapter. There are 4 offset bolts double ended bolts which screw into the block and depending on how much you tighten them the offset bolt (that goes into the trans bolt hole) will be in a different position. As you install the transmission you need to rotate all of these so that they align with the transmission bolt holes. I made a cardboard cutout of the trans and tried to align the offset bolts up correctly but it didnt work too well as I had to tinker with all 4 a bit to get it to lign up which was a real cu&$%t of a job when you have the trans balancing on the jack!
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About 3 years ago, I fitted a VN TH700 to my EH ute behind a 327. As far as the torque converter lock up goes, all that is requires is a 12v feed to the 4 pin electric terminal on the box. (Cant recall which pins though). This will activate the lock facility. The difficult part has been to only have it lock up when cruising at highway speed. It will reduce RPM in the range of 200RPM. Recently, there has been an oil pressure switch designed to fit into the auto. At cruising speed, this pressure switch will be within the range that requires the lock to engage & provide 12v to the lock up system. Essentially, the switch allows the 12v to lock the converter up at the correct time & disengage when not required. Having the torque converter lock up engaged when not required will make a for a pig of ride. I will be having one of these valves fitted quite soon. Not having the converter lock up has no detrimental affect on the auto. I see it as only a nice to have on a long cruise. The TV cable positioning will be quite critical. If it is out of the correct position by only a small amount, the characteristics of the auto may vary significantly. Best of luck with it, good auto if set up right. Utility8  Edited by user Thursday, 22 April 2010 3:26:51 AM(UTC)
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utility8
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Yeah I dont want to be flicking the lockup on and off all the time hence the 4th gear temp sensor bypass. That way I only have to have 1 wire going to the trans and I will just drive suburbia in 3rd gear and when im on the freeway shift into 4th and lockup will be on.
I think the lockup feature is pretty important because of the heat generated in top gear:a .7 to 1 ratio would put a lot of torque through the converter and heat up the trans in no time without lockup.
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Not completely sure about that. My understanding is that the torque converter lock up is not gear dependent. It is on or off no matter what gear the trans is in. Havent heard of a 4th gear temp sensor bypass. All autos will have an amount of slip at the torque converter. The torque converter lock up will eliminate this slippage, but is only ever used in top gear as a way of increasing economy/reducing RPM. It also has nothing to do with the way the overdrive functions. Realistically, no more heat is generated in top gear than any other. Utility8 |
utility8
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Ok I bypassed the temp switch in the trans and put positive power to the corresponding pin on the connector but it keeps blowing fuses when I reach 4th gear now.
Does anyone know how much power the 4th gear lockup solenoid draws?
I had a 15 amp fuse on it surely its not supposed to draw anywhere near that?
Any ideas on what else could be wrong?
Cheers,
Andy
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Hey Ive had a brainwave and worked it out.
The two outer wires control the lockup. When one has power and the other ground it locks up. To get it to only lockup in 4th instead of grounding the ground wire it gets joined to the overtemp wire (the inner wire on the connector) which is how it gets ground only in 4th. Hope that makes sense! This way I dont need to worry about toggling the lockup on and off it just automatically locks in top and top only. I will at some stage instal a switch just incase I want to unlock it in top but I cant think of why I would need to...
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The VK speedo runs off a speed sensor fitted to the cruise transducer under the brake booster. It has a short speedo cable that runs from the gearbox to the transducer.
There are 2 options to make it work. Ill mention the easy one first, because you have everything you need already:
The VK Calais speed sensor, and the VN speed sender, are physically interchangeable - dont mix them up, you wont tell them apart, and they are slightly different - the VK one generates 16 pulses per rotation, while the VN one generates 10 pulses per rotation.
You need to keep the VK speed sender, and screw it on where the VN speed sender goes. Then extend the 3 wires for the sensor so they reach down to the transmission, so you can plug in the relocated speed sender.
The only downside to this, is you will lose your cruise control.
The other option to get the speedo back is to source a VC or VH T350 speedo cable from an SL/E that had cruise fitted, and use it to link the trans to the cruise transducer. An early (T350) WB one may also work.
Cheers,
Mick
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Cheers,
Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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quote:
Originally posted by commodorenut
The other option to get the speedo back is to source a VC or VH T350 speedo cable from an SL/E that had cruise fitted, and use it to link the trans to the cruise transducer. An early (T350) WB one may also work.
If you know the length you need just have one made up to suit, a place like ringwood speedos can do it for you. Cheers Mark.
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