3mm drill, bigger drill (like 13mm) and a bandsaw blade.

I usually drill most spotwelds out with a small high speed drill like 3mm. Some I then "countersink" using the big drill. Some dont need it.

Then use a bandsaw blade with the end broken off and sharpened to a point on the break. Put the blade between the 2 pieces of spotwelded steel and tap with a hammer. Most will come apart. Some will hold on and youll have to drill them more. The sharp end of the bandsaw blade will cut through some as well, but sometimes it can tear the steel.

You can buy special spotweld removal tools too that drill and countersink in one go.

The other way, is if you are removing an outer skin you can just cut the throw away bit off, and run a grinder along the joint and carefully grind away the top layer, leaving a clean undrilled surface to attach the new piece to. Works a treat for sills etc. For doors, you just run a grinder along the edge so you grind through the skin. Then grind or flapdisc the foldover off, leaving just the frame.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

I own a Capri and they have bolt on doors, bonnet and bootlid thats it so one of those spot weld removing drills is pretty much a must have tool.

I made one with a bench grinder on a 10mm drill bit but the point kept snapping off so I went in search of a new one.

I was directed to an automotive paint supply shop who gave me a choice relatively cheap Chinese one at $22 (still fairly expensive for a drill bit) or a more expensive one at twice the price.

I went against all reason and bought the cheaper one & have drilled dozens if not hundreds of spot welds with it and it stays nice and sharp.

The spot weld drill makes life easy if you want to re use the panel that you are removing otherwise as Byron says use a grinder.

Its still called unpicking when you drill as you are unpicking a spot welded panel.

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Vandals and graffiti "artists" do everyone a favour and target parking meters and fixed speed cameras only.

With that spot remover on ebay it looks like you have to drill a hole all the way through the weld/metal prior to the cutter removing the spot weld. Is that correct? With the one link posted earlier (Wurth product) the end of the drill bit looks much closer to the cutter?

Alex