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hainzy Offline
#1 Posted : Tuesday, 27 April 2010 7:35:51 PM(UTC)
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Hi guys.
I know this has been asked a lot but I cant really find the info Im after.. Been thinking about making the VH a daily, and am therefore considering taking the brock engine out of it and putting it in storage, and replacing it with an EFI V8. The reasons for this are mainly preserving the original engine as it is a valuable part of the car, and secondly fuel efficiency and reliability. I realise fuel efficiency is nulled by the cost of the conversion but the other thinga are important too..

Anyhoo I am crapping on. So what i would like to know is what is the best engine option for an early commy?? I have heard the 304 is the most straight forward, and an LS1 is a lot more work... Just so i can keep my eyes on the classifieds, what is the best model to get an EFi out of?? VNs seem plentiful but I dont know what is best. VN to VP seems the most recommeneded and it seems a VL is a good source of parts... Is there one model which is best for all the bits? Anything newer? Dont want to have to get an engineers cert either...

Would like power but not wanting to do the quarter mile, and would also prefer manual so which gearbox doesnt require tunnel mods??

I have a cheap (but slow) mechanic mate who can do the tricky stuff for me.

Any thoughts from the more experienced out there..? Also if Im crazy you can tell me that too..

Sorry for the zillion Qs...

Cheers.
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Tuesday, 27 April 2010 7:59:23 PM(UTC)
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VN-VP 5litre with T5 manual. Will be pretty much a bolt in conversion, not sure about the gearbox crossmember.
Youll be able to use all the wiring off the engine, but you might have to drill a hole in the firewall where a VK EFI has its harness plug. Just use a VK EFI tank, pump and return line - it should fit in the VH. The VN-VP airbox should fit as well, pretty much as the VK EFI fits.
The VH radiator, shroud etc will all work, and from memory you can use the VN-VP A/C compressor and power steering pump fine with the VH stuff.
Youll just have to muck around with wiring/relays over near the battery.
Standard VH TH350 speedo cable should work but buy an inline 2 pulse per rev speed sensor.
Tailshaft might have to be shortened but possibly just use the front half of the VN one??

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commodorenut Offline
#3 Posted : Wednesday, 28 April 2010 6:11:35 AM(UTC)
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Agree with what Byron has written, but will add more.

Use a VB-VK trimatic gearbox cross member to mount the box (you will need to slot the holes).

Use the front half of whatever tailshaft fits your gearbox choice, and the rear half of the VH one - as its already V8, the size will be fine.

Use the VN-VS donor cars K-frame, and use a VN V6 steering rack, along with the EFI steering pump & lines. Its all a neat bolt-in, and gives you the desperately needed room to run the exhaust down the firewall/floor area without needing custom pipes.

Dont bother with a VK tank. Use the tank from a later one - even VS, and just shorten the filler neck by 40mm where it goes into the rubber hose. This will give you a much neater internal pump - far better than trying to hang a fuel pump & damper bracket, and run the VK 2-pump system. Its also much more easily reversed. Get the matching straps & tank from a live-axle VS sedan - VS V6s are 63L like the VH, and V8s are 73L - with their on unique straps.

Cheers,

Mick
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Cheers,

Mick
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hainzy Offline
#4 Posted : Wednesday, 28 April 2010 10:58:21 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Byron and Mick.
Your answers have been extremely helpful for getting me pointing in some sort of direction.

Having read your info, these are the questions I have.

Are the VP engines getting a bit long in the tooth these days? Or is there an era to look out for? Ie are the later VPs (say 1993) better than the early ones? Wasnt there a series 1 and 2 in the VPs? Also as they are slightly newer and perhaps better, what about VR and VS engines? Are they more difficult to put in?

If i put the 5 sp man in will I need to cut the tunnel at all? I seem to remember something on Micks site saying you did. Also is that a borg warner? Is this the same as a T5? (pardon my ignorance on that one..)

Mick does the trimatic x-member suit position wise? Meaning you just have to re drill some holes for the box?

Mick suggests using the VN / VS k frame. Arent they a bit wider? How will this affect the camber/geometry etc? What if i placed the VP v8 on the VH K frame? Is the main problem from this just the lack of exhaust clearance or are there more factors?

Mick is ther any particular reason you suggest a VN V6 steering rack?

Sorry about all the questions again. i appreciate your info and am just trying to work out if there is a better way of doing it which involves buying only one donor car (eg a rusty VR) rather than bits from different models..

Cheers again!
HK1837 Offline
#5 Posted : Thursday, 29 April 2010 3:51:46 AM(UTC)
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You can use a later engine if you like, you just have to get the memcal changed to remove the BCM input. You can also use a later engine with a VN-VP ECU and harness, just have to swap dizzys and muck around with a sensor or two.
The engines are a snack to rebuild anyway. No harder than and other 253 or 308. Just buy one blowing a bit of smoke, and hopefully a hone and new rings, crank linish and new bearings and maybe heads serviced and youll be away. Always fit a new oil pump too, and change the cam and lifters whilst its apart as well if it needs it.

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commodorenut Offline
#6 Posted : Thursday, 29 April 2010 6:03:39 AM(UTC)
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Having read your info, these are the questions I have.
Are the VP engines getting a bit long in the tooth these days? Or is there an era to look out for? Ie are the later VPs (say 1993) better than the early ones? Wasnt there a series 1 and 2 in the VPs? Also as they are slightly newer and perhaps better, what about VR and VS engines? Are they more difficult to put in?

Yes there was VP S1 & S2. They were all pretty much the same in VN-VP, with no real improvements/changes until the VR (clearanced block for the 350) and VT (roller cam).

The reason for the earlier motors is the ease of using the computer manual or auto use the same common, and readily obtainable harness. The memcal is the only difference.

The VR onwards have 2 probs:
1. Autos are electronic, and require the full PCM & loom swap, and have a 2 wire speed sender that cant be adapted easily to a cable speedo. You also need the VATS removed from the memcal.
2. Manual VR/VS are relatively rare, and hard to find. They have a unique wiring harness & ECM, which command big $$ 2nd hand.

In my opinion, youre only talking about a couple of years difference in age, and km are irrelevant in a 20 year old donor car anyway. Id rather a low km VN donor than a flogged out VS, and manuals do seem to be more obtainable in VN & VP, for much more reasonable prices. Personally, Id want to freshen up any donor motor from this era, regardless of the donor model.


If i put the 5 sp man in will I need to cut the tunnel at all? I seem to remember something on Micks site saying you did. Also is that a borg warner? Is this the same as a T5? (pardon my ignorance on that one..The T5 is a Borg-Warner box. It is different to the early borg-warner 5 speed used in VH & VK 4 & 6 cylinders.
The gear lever sits right back at the rear of the hole, and 9 times out of 10 requires metal surgery for clearance. The console is also an issue, as it wont line up through the console hole, even if it does make it through the floor. Perhaps look at a hybrid box a Falcon case with VN/VP internals that can move the shifter back, or bring one out from the US that has the right shifter position (like VL Group A T5s).

Mick does the trimatic x-member suit position wise? Meaning you just have to re drill some holes for the box? Slot the holes the rear gearbox mount used in VL HDT T5s is the same as the trimatic one, and the mount almost lines up with the crossmember holes you just need to slot them out. On a VN T5, use the VN mount, and a slotted VH crossmember.
Mick suggests using the VN / VS k frame. Arent they a bit wider? How will this affect the camber/geometry etc? What if i placed the VP v8 on the VH K frame? Is the main problem from this just the lack of exhaust clearance or are there more factors? The K-frames have the same dimensions on all VB-VS models.
The variation is in the motor mounting height, and the steering rack position.
The geometry is identical from VB-VP the whole VP front end (except the swaybar links) is the same as the VB.
There are 2 benefits with the VL-VS K-frame.
1. A HUGE improvement in extractor clearance. Using the VH K-frame means you must use a VH rack, and these block most of the pipe room on the RHS of the engine.
2. You use a VL onwards rack, which is much better than the VB-VK rack in feel, and much, much smaller in the pinion housing than the VH one refer to the point above!

Mick is ther any particular reason you suggest a VN V6 steering rack?
Yes. VL onwards racks are different to VB-VK.
All VL-VS racks will bolt up to all VL-VS K-frames, but will not interchange with VB-VK.

You will need a VL intermediate shaft (joins the column to the rack) and this will allow any VB-VK column to suit a VL/VN steering rack.

The VL rack has its pipes rotated in a not-so-friendly direction.
Its still an improvement over the VH, but not as good as it could be.
The VN rack saw the pipes rotated around further. It makes for much more extractor space. Part way into VP, they changed the pinion drive shaft on the top of the rack from a splined shaft to a square drive. There is no intermediate shaft to suit the square drive into an early commodore, so this limits you to 2.5 models worth of steering rack.
The reason you ask for a VN V6 rack, is that its identical to the VN V8 one, but doesnt attract the price premium.
The other advantage of the VN rack, is you use the EFI power steering pump bracket, location, and hoses, for an easy bolt-up fit, and simple spare parts support youre not making custom pipes up.


Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
hainzy Offline
#7 Posted : Friday, 30 April 2010 5:00:42 AM(UTC)
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Awesome guys. Thanks so much for that info. Byron what you say makes good sense and Mick you are a legend! (And visa versa....!!)

I have found heaps of info on specific conversions but its great to get a general best option thread.

Just in relation to the 5 speed sitting too far back, I could make a bit of a cut cos that wont be seen but it would be a pain if it didnt work with the console. Has anyone ever had a shifter custom built in a shape where the stick goes forward then goes up? Like the old manual with a bench seat ones.. Except a more extreme curve... If that makes sense? I have a mate who is a steel worker and can make anything I need, but I dont know if this has been tried and proven before.

Otherwise does the VP 304 and auto combo work better in a VH or is the shifter still in the same spot?

Thanks again.
HK1837 Offline
#8 Posted : Friday, 30 April 2010 5:28:04 AM(UTC)
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Origional trimatic T-bar should operate the TH700R4/4L60 OK. You could also just use a Supra conversion?

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Jim5.0 Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 1 May 2010 12:37:33 AM(UTC)
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When I converted my old VC Commodore to a Celica 5 speed I cut the gearstick at the base and moved it forward by welding some flat bar between the base and the rest of the stick.

This made the gear stick come up out of the box, move forward about 2 or three inches then go straight up again in the correct position. All of this chopping and changing was neatly concealed under the shifter boot.

Its probably even easier to do that with a T5 as the gearstick bolts to a stump coming out of the gearbox.


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hainzy Offline
#10 Posted : Saturday, 1 May 2010 4:55:38 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Jim. Thats exactly what I was thinking. Glad to hear that it worked Ok for you. If i get around to this conversion I reckon Ill go with something like that.
hainzy Offline
#11 Posted : Tuesday, 4 May 2010 3:11:03 AM(UTC)
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Further to all this.. Anyone actually have or know of a VP or VN 304 5 speed for sale in Vic? Been looking around and theyre a bit scarce so thought Id ask. Cheers.

hainzy Offline
#12 Posted : Monday, 24 May 2010 3:56:06 AM(UTC)
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Gday Guys.

is the kind of thing Im lookin for? I realise I might end up getting a whole car but it might be handy to onsell the car with the k frame etc still in it.. Cheers.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/v...ries&hash=item3efff73dcd
hainzy Offline
#13 Posted : Tuesday, 25 May 2010 8:04:43 AM(UTC)
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Another Q also guys is how would this setup go on straight gas? can i run straight gas and therefore can I get away with not bothering with the tank/pump shenanigans? Cheers.
hainzy Offline
#14 Posted : Thursday, 27 May 2010 4:56:15 AM(UTC)
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anyone?
Dr Terry Offline
#15 Posted : Monday, 31 May 2010 2:56:16 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
Another Q also guys is how would this setup go on straight gas? can i run straight gas and therefore can I get away with not bothering with the tank/pump shenanigans? Cheers.

What tank/pump shenanigans ??

The beauty of converting any Commodore to EFI, is that you can just bolt in any late model bits required e.g. an EFI fuel tank incorporating in internal pump & swirl pump. Cheap & simple.

I would recommend fitting an injected LPG system. It just 'piggy-backs' off the factory EFI system & has no restrictive intake venturis or gas carburettors. I use these on my daily drivers (VT & WH etc. & I wouldn't use anything else.

The only downside of running this type of LPG is loss of boot space, but everything else in a plus.

Dr Terry

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davequey74 Offline
#16 Posted : Monday, 31 May 2010 4:28:08 AM(UTC)
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hainzy if you need any gas work done (as the doc suggests) go see mick at micks pro gas in wallis st, he does a top job and specialises in preformance mods, he even has a dyno to tune it properly at the end
hainzy Offline
#17 Posted : Tuesday, 1 June 2010 8:24:09 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys.
Terry by shenanigans i just meant the return system for the petrol and all that. But what you say sounds good. The car already has a fully compliant gas system with an impco 425, so I guess theres just a few changes to be made there but an injected gas system sounds good.

And thanks dave. He sounds like the bloke then! None of this will be happening for another month or 2 but Im just planning ahead.

Cheers for the help again!
Dr Terry Offline
#18 Posted : Tuesday, 1 June 2010 11:25:35 PM(UTC)
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I doubt that an Impco 425 would fit on a Holden EFI V8 & still be 'compliant'.

Since you already have the LPG tank & filler in the car, the installation of an injected system would be a piece of cake. Definitely the way to go.

Dr Terry

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hainzy Offline
#19 Posted : Wednesday, 2 June 2010 6:55:16 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Dr terry.
Yes i would certainly have to lose the Impco. I dont see how that would work at all but the gas injection sounds like a sterling idea!
Cheers.

hainzy Offline
#20 Posted : Sunday, 6 June 2010 9:29:41 PM(UTC)
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Been looking round at all the VN and VPs available and I noticed that statesman VQs from 1991 keep popping up too. Jusy wondering if these are the same as the VN/Ps in terms of electrics etc? Should i be looking at them too? Cheers.

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