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Do you have to bleed master cylinder after being restored before refiting, or install and bleed using brake pedal? Ive had different mechanics tell me different ways.. thanks
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Not much point bleeding before you fit it. fit and then bleed.
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The commodore ones need to be bled - this can be on the bench, or in the car. Usually if you don't, a small pocket of air gets trapped at the very front, and results in a spongy pedal. No amount of "at wheel" bleeding will dislodge it either.
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
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Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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I'm with Mick on this one. I always bleed new master cylinders in a vice before fitting them to the car, especially dual master cylinders.
It is a lot easier getting the air out of a master cylinder this way than mucking around in the car (not to mention wasting fluid).
Dr Terry
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Totally agree with mick & Dr T I bench bleed brake & clutch master cylinders before fitting. Saves having the drama mick explained or having to chase the air by just cracking the pipe nuts back thru the car & spraying or dribbling fluid over the engine bay & equipment plus some cars just get too tight for room under the master/servo unit.
J
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always bench bleed. takes 2 seconds
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bleed it first then,fit,fill,bleed brakes as normal..thats better.sorry Jim in Adelaide...WTB CENTER LINE AUTO DRAGS 15X7 UPTO 8.5 WIDE. Edited by user Wednesday, 14 July 2010 1:36:31 AM(UTC)
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Jim in Adelaide.. |
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Thanks everyone for your input.!! Bench first then..!!
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Sorry Team
Being an mechanical ignoramous, how do you bleed them off the car??
Understand the clutch master cylinder with the slave attached, but...
Sorry for the stupid question....
Cheers
Jeremy
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Jeremy - I have 3 pipes (cut from a wreck) that I bent so they come back around into the reservior.
The way I do the commodore one is to fill it with fluid, about 1/2 way up. Then fit the rear pipe, so it goes back into the fluid, and the lower front one. With the upper front one, you let it drip bleed for about a minute, then I put the pipe on it.
When all 3 pipes are on it, I top up the fluid a little more, and then clamp the flange in the vice so I can push the piston in a few times (you don't have to push it far).
Then carefully transfer it to the car, and remove the pipes one by one, replacing them with the car's pipes.
The downside to my method is you're working with an open reservior, which can be a risk as far as spillage. There's also the train of thought that the exposed fluid can absorb a fair bit of moisture in the 15-20 minutes it's open, but I fingure this is the fluid that eventually gets pumped out the bleed nipples anyway, as you bleed the 4 wheels.
The way I do it is probably a bit pedantic, as I've seen other people just jam plastic plugs into the ports once it's been "drip bled" on the bench, and one mate just holds the thing in a large rag to prevent fluid loss when fitting it into the car.
This method works for my commodore ones, but the HG has a different setup you'll need to adapt to.
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
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Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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I've seen it done the way Mick does it but with the master cylinder fitted to the car first and leaving out the drip bit. That way it gives one less opportunity to spill fluid as the M/C is already mounted to the car.
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