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So I need to get a 308 sump for my injected 304 which is going into the HQ. Is it worth the money to get a high energy style pan or are the standard ones fine?
The car isn't going to be used for racing etc. I just wonder if the'yre really worth the extra cost for my application.
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if your not racing it would not bother, just takes more time to heat that extra oil up anyway if it,s a daily driver, pete.
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i sold them for 15 yrs and i still reckon they a gimmick really, but had to push them coz we neede to make sales
prolly a baffle is ok, but i really dunn reckon you need gates and scrapers and windage tray and all the crap and such an increased capacity
"To remove donuts from wanting to own and drive HO's, God made Monaro's."
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Thanks guys, Looks like I'll just grab a standard 308 sump then.
Would it be better to find a used OEM sump or find a new one? I imagine the old ones would probably be better quality? Are there any mobs that reproduce them?
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308 pans have been reproduced, were done about 10-11yrs ago when GM stopped making them.the pan rail strengthing strip(where the bolts go through) was not welded onto it when it was made in tiawan, it came separate but now maybe they have been welded it on im thinking, not sure i have 3-4 pans and pick ups that i kept for my own projects that i have no need for know here if you are interested
"To remove donuts from wanting to own and drive HO's, God made Monaro's."
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are you fitting a high volume oil pump?
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BIGCAV - I'll be using the standard VT 5L oil pump.
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then id agree with most others here then mate
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I'm building a 355, carb set up and have a similar question, is it worth while putting on a high energy sump and if i was too should i run a high volume pump. I have been told that becase the oil flow back to the bottom end in 308's is slow you are better off just running the standard oil pump. What are your opinions/experiences?
Cheers
**CHOPP3R**
71 HQ TONNER
01 WH STATESMAN |
1970 HG Panelvan
1971 HQ 1 Tonner
2001 WH Statesman
Kawazaki KLX250SF |
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Hi,
have heard of oil flow back problems but I always use a high volume ( not high pressure )pump myself and never had a problem.
Some castings can have a rather rough surface perhaps this may have led to problems, I have smoothed the rough bits and sharp edges off my XU-1 head as I don't want any return issues.
I could easily see return issues with an old engine with sludge build up being a problem.
As you are building a new and slower reving engine I suggest a high volume pump would be an advantage anyway.
I think it is mainly under extreme racing conditions that oil return is a issue due to the constant high reves, but for street and the occasional high rev burst I never seemed to have a issue.
7000 rpm in a 186 was fine!
Mike
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ive never used a high volume pump unless its a million mile sh1tter with bugger all oil pressure, or a built engine with enough clearance to actually need the volume.
On anything else, a standard holden oil pump with careful attention to gear to block clearances, 0.100" shim in the pressure relief valve amd some minor radius work on the entry/exit of pump and block.
HV pump will just bypass most its extra capacity and put more load on the drive gear/shaft which almost nobody bothers to change in an engine "reco"
I also use a bigger capacity sump and windage tray (at the least) on almost anything whether sh1tbox or decent engine, with a much better pickup.
oiling (or the lack of) is what kills holdens...
11.38@117mph
will go quicker
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Hi,
I can see your point, though I have never seen an original Holden engine with the correct main bearing tunnel size yet and I have over 100 of them here.
As you will know the only way to get the correct main bearing clearance on a Holden 6 is to have the main bearing journals line bored, otherwise it is normally three to four times the factory specifications, due to bearing cap stretch.
Mike
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if they were that bad in the mains surly they would be spinning main bearing from no crush on the bearings? can i have a pic of your back yard?lol
pete.
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