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Hi. I have a falcon XG XR6 that needs either head gasket or head.
Can someone tell me what tools I will need to remove head and replace gasket and what the recommended parts and brands would be?
Was also told that using an AU gasket will slightly increase compression. Is this true? Advisable?
It has done a lot of Kms > 250K but was running ok. There is some minimal water in the oil, runs rough (water!) once warm and some visible water from exhaust (droplets but not steam).
Tried silica additive, but only worked for a day. So looking for cheapest fix that will work.
Once get head off can most likely see if head also has visible corrosion/crack, so would be interested to know what the chances of those would be given age and kms. And then in turn what your thoughts would be to resale if put cheap recond non xr6 head on it instead of xr6 head?
Also is anyone aware of any good instructions on head replacement outside of buying a manual, and if I do buy a manual what models would be appropriate for this and if there are any preferred eg: gregorys/haynes/factory etc.
TIA
Cheers
Jesse
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The AU2 or AU3 steel head gasket is the gasket of choice as they are known to be tough. It is probably the one that raises compression a bit due to it's thickness (thin).
It's mandatory that you use brand new head bolts as used ones WILL snap with catastrophic results for your engine.
No special tools are required but you must be careful with the timing chain tensioner as you don't want to drop it into the sump. A manual will give you instructions on what to do with that.
The heads do tend to crack between water and the exhaust valve seats. These cracks will be visible to the naked eye so you will know if you have cracks so be especially vigilant for them if there are no tell tale signs of a blown head gasket once the head is off.
In fact if the gasket is not obviously blown I would recommend that you get the head crack tested if you see no cracks. |
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Thanks Jim, that is all great info.
Planning on taking head off early next week.
Will hunt around for a book this weekend.
If I do need to replace the head. Would there be any differences in performance between my XR head (T 93DT) and putting on an AU head or an XH XR6 Head which I might be able to get?
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I,m not overly sure about the performance differences however there is one gotcha.
About 1/2 way through the EL model run Ford changed the rocker ratio.
Not a problem if you change the camshaft and the rockers but do not be tempted to use the Au head and rockers with your XR6 cam. Having said that though I believe that you can use the AU head with your existing cam and rockers. |
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Thanks Jim.
Off to try find a workshop manual now.
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Have removed head and unfortunately I can't see anything obvious with gasket blowout or leaking. There is definitely water in the oil and running rough before I took it apart though. Also cannot see any visible head cracks.
Is there anywhere else that could cause leaking? The outer head bolts were easier to undo than the inner bolts around 3 and 4 but were still firm. Could it just be uneven tension on the head bolts? I've had the ute for a few years and never done any work on the head but dont know what was or wasnt done before I had it. The gasket I have taken out is a permaseal. Head appears straight but will obviously need to take to shop and get tested.
My head casting is 93DT which I think is the EF series if that makes any difference.
Ta
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One of my mates once had problems with a "leaking head gasket" which turned out to be loose head bolts. He was losing coolant from under the exhaust manifold where the head joined the block. He was also lucky enough to get away with it by re tensioning the head bolts.
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Hi Jim
Thanks, I'm pretty sure that's what it was at 2 and 5. No2 top of cylinder is very clean. Think also leaking between 2 and 3 and same as your mate to the exhaust side. I should have tried retensioning the head first, but now that it is off, having it skimmed and pressure tested and acid bathed along with cam and rockers.
Head shop said its probably the best looking head they have seen in a year and would be very surprised if the pressure test fails, but worth doing while it is off in case, so that's a small consolation. Valves sealing except for 2 and 3. And these were open when took head off so likely debris. Head shop will double check after clean, rest all came up to 21+ on vacuum test.
Have seen radiators for $104 new so thinking will change radiator and maybe waterpump while at it as dont want to have to do anything with the head again if can help it. Any idea if these cheap radiators on ebay are ok?
On the bottom radiator hose, the spring is badly rusted out. Are these like a sacrificial anode on boat motors? Or just low quality hose?
Cheers
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My experience with cheap radiators is this:
a few years ago my EB's original radiator blocked up so I replaced it with an Aussie made radiator off eBay. Yes I confirmed that it was not a cheap import before buying it. This radiators core was copper.
This radiator worked well for several years until it blew a gasket on one of it's tanks 80km north of Melbourne and about 500km from home.
Stopped in Broadford and managed to pick up a cheap but new radiator there so I fitted it and drove home.
The car rang hotter with this cheap radiator all the way home and within a month the POS was leaking from split metal. This radiator had an aluminium core.
I removed the tank from the eBay radiator and replaced the gasket with some carefully placed sylastic and re fitted that radiator. 8 months later I sold the car with that radiator and it was still quite fine.
So in short no I would not trust my cooling system to Chinese crap. |
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Thanks Jim. Nuff said on the radiator. No point going down that path.
Update on the head. Got it back. Looks good with light skim. Pressure test good. machine shop even ground 3 of the valves for me that failed vacuum tests due to the water over time, at no extra cost. Place was Headworx Bunbury so can recommend them. Got Delco Gasket set and of course new head boltes.
Will see if can get it fitted up tomorrow. Lot of scuff marks (horizontal) in cylinder walls I guess mainly from water on 2 and 3. Going to see if clean up with just some wet n dry. Have timing gear bound to chain with cable ties.
Is there a way to keep lined up correctly (or re line up) if turn crank to expose cylinder areas to clean up a bit?
Cheers
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