Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 11/01/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Melbourne Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Hey Guys, Just posting to showcase my current build video series and would be interested to see anyone else's. Mine is a 1982 WB Ute and am 5 months in. It can all be seen in youtube if your interested. http://www.youtube.com/c/BarnesysBuilds Cheers Barnesy
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 1 user thanked Barnesy's Build for this useful post.
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/01/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Melbourne Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Wow what an overwhelming response lol
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Adelaide
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Hey Barnsey,
I'll respond mate (10 months later...lol).
I've just discovered your youtube vids and am really enjoing them as I'm a novice aswell, keen to undertake my first rebuild of my HZ. I have recently purchased a new welder (same as yours by chance) Cigweld 135 and am keen to get stuck into some patch panel repairs.
Question though, what was your reasoning for taking the whole car back to bare metal..? I'm in a predicament where I have some really crappy surface rusted panels that need taking right back but others (such as my boot and bonnet) that are fine, no rust or bog and am wondering if I still need to take these back to bare metal...?
Im up to episode 12 I think...?
Cheers Steve
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Registered
Joined: 11/01/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Melbourne Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Ha, thanks mate, that's a classic, one response is better than none though so i will take it. Yeah 135 is a good welder, make sure you get shielding MIG GAS as well, it makes the world of difference in the quality of the welds.
As far as taking the other panels back to bare metal i would suggest you do it even though you think they are fine. The reality is there could be bad repairs, hidden rust, rust that is just about to break through on thin metal etc which could be hidden by layers of paint primer and bog. You don't really know until you take the paint off. If you get down to the last layer and can see that it's solid then just sand the good base primer thats already on there back to a smooth finish and then once cleaned you can epoxy prime over the top. Don't use etch primer like i did over old bog etc, only use on bare metal. Use epoxy over old paint etc if you go down that track. good luck!
Barnesy
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Adelaide
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Cheers for the response mate...!
I'll look forward to the next few episodes.
Steve
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Rank: Veteran
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Joined: 25/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,125
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 18 time(s) in 17 post(s)
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Just discovered this! Good stuff.
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Rank: Veteran
Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,125
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 18 time(s) in 17 post(s)
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I’m hooked. Awesome production and I love WB utes so win win.
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Rank: Newbie
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/11/2018(UTC) Posts: 3 ![Australia]( "Australia") Location: Adelaide
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Hey Barnsey, whats happening with the ute mate...? Seems progress has slowed a little...?
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