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#1 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2005 9:21:49 AM(UTC)
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Hi having all types of problems, with paint work, sprayed acrylic over previous painted surface, a fornight later, I had a few small 1 cent bubble rise, I blocked em back and filled them, then I used motorspray isolater, only to have the isolate fry up the NEW ACYRLIC paint work, dont know where to go now, The amount of paint on the body of the car makes, stripping or sanding back to bare maetal NOT AN OPTION. help with ideas please? Acrylic top coat even paritally fryin g with mutipurpose undercoat applied on top. Interesting that there wasnt any big signs of frying on application of the acrylic top coat on the same undercoat other than the couple of spots that bubbled ( id say due to escaping thinners, maybe)
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#2 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2005 3:34:21 PM(UTC)
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Cut it back with wet/dry, and use an Acyrlic primer/surfacer called Hi-Fill, it's not a spray putty but a heavy primer filler, and seals very well.
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#3 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2005 10:28:13 PM(UTC)
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When painting with acrylic, over old paint and new hifill I always put a coat of 2-pack grey primer over everything before painting the acrylic colour coats. This really helps to minimise reactions, plus virtually eliminates shrinkage.
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#4 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2005 10:45:30 PM(UTC)
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I usually find cheaper brands have a much greater chance of frying. Whenever I use an expensive brand of acrylic and apply it carefully, not to wet, it stops the frying too.
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
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#5 Posted : Saturday, 19 November 2005 2:46:14 AM(UTC)
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i cant offer you any good advice.
But i can have a whinge myself and back up something said by peter_smol about using cheap ****.
i recently pulled out my chassis of the hj and i cleaned it up, and found a huge crack so i cracked the ****s and got anoth
BLWNHJ
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#6 Posted : Saturday, 19 November 2005 3:07:42 AM(UTC)
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I use 800 wet & dry to rough up the old paintwork. It must be roughed up an evenly roughed up. Clean the surface with a de-greasing solution too ie Prepsol etc, and blow it dry. U dont want fluff on it. Then as Byron says use good grey primer over the old
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#7 Posted : Monday, 21 November 2005 9:16:31 AM(UTC)
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enamals and acrylics dont like each other....if a car has had a quick enamal coat or acran,which was a popular cross of quick drying acrylic/enamal in the 70s/80s at some stage in its life you can get these problems....only way round this is to do a reall
going to church makes you no more a christian than standing in a garage makes you a car...

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#8 Posted : Monday, 21 November 2005 10:52:11 PM(UTC)
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Yep when I paint I always put a really light coat on first it stops any scratches showing up and stops alot of reactions.
Give a generous time for flash off between coats.

Prepsol before painting and dont just wipe it around you have to wipe it on and
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#9 Posted : Monday, 19 December 2005 3:29:14 PM(UTC)
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For those interested, I rubbed back and primed with two pack high fill, Again I had reactions in the the colour coat I had applied and had problems with. As it turned out the paint supplied to me has a fault, yeop it sprayed on ok, but wont take anything
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#10 Posted : Monday, 19 December 2005 8:35:11 PM(UTC)
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Take it back to bare metal and start again.
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#11 Posted : Monday, 19 December 2005 10:01:56 PM(UTC)
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If theres going to be a fry up can you throw on some eggs and snaggs, I love snaggs.

EAP
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#12 Posted : Tuesday, 20 December 2005 7:16:01 AM(UTC)
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use poly uerathane paint.
its cheapish, and sprays over anything.


VN Calais, V8 Auto, Blown etc etc.

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