Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
Hello to all. Just finished rebuilding the 186 engine with the new VK Electronic ignition. I followed the reapers guide on oldholden in regards to wires and relay positions. The car started perfectly first time, but when I tried to switch the car off, nothing happened, the engine kept going. I have the following wires in these positions on the Relay: Earth-85, Power from battery-30, Old ignition wire-86, New ignition wire-87. There must be a loop somewhere for this to be happening, but I can't see where. I was thinking that maybe 30 should be old ignition and 86 Batt power, but only guessing and need to find out first. The car seems to run ok without relay in place using old Ignition wire and swithed off as usual, but don't have volt meter and can't garrentee 12 volts. Is there anything else it could be besides wire postions? On the coil + their is the new ignition wire, brown wire from dizzy, and a bypass wire from the starter solenode( appanently used for easiler starting on cold mornings-as told by Auto Elec). I thourght it might have been the bypass wire but, nothing changed when removed. The wiring used for the job might be a bit thin, but this should not effect anything in the short term I would think. Any ideas appreciated.
On another noted, I opened the plugs up to 1.5mm (.060), but the engine still seams to stumble at idle and run a bit rough. I this gap the standard?? On the dizzy itself it has a 6 degrees sticker on the vacume advance, is this an indication for anything???
cheers james
1970 HT UTE |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 279
|
G'day James, Mine works fine and it was wired up by an auto electrician like this: Earth-85 Power from battery-86 New ignition wire-87 Old ignition wire-30 Cheers. Russ. IGNORE THIS REPLY AND READ FURTHER IN THIS THREAD Edited by user Monday, 23 January 2006 7:33:45 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
Ok had a play, couldn't resist, I have put old ignition wire on 30, earth on 86, batt power on 85, and new remains on 87. The car managed to shut down with key this time but was sluggish starting up. Could this be due to the thin wires loosing amps or are |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,135
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
|
Russ - you need to swap the old ign wire onto # 86, as that is the relay coil trigger, and put the battery power onto terminal 30, as that is the input.
The way it is wired according to your numbers would see the relay constantly on, and it's only feed |
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 279
|
quote: Originally posted by commodorenut
Russ - you need to swap the old ign wire onto # 86, as that is the relay coil trigger
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 6,069
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 207 time(s) in 188 post(s)
|
Hi Russ.
The 1st way you had it was correct.
30 = batt +ve 87 = coil +ve 86 = old coil feed (usually yellow) 85 = earth
85 & 86 can be swapped.
Your problem of not switching off (assuming the wiring is now correct) can be caused by leakage |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 279
|
Sorry mick, I apologise, you were absolutely correct, I did some investigation and found that I had checked the positions for my original reply using a spare relay, and looking at the wire positions, and lo and behold, the relay on my ignition has the ter
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
Dr Terry, I have already tried wiring it that way, and did not work. What do you mean leaking back through alternator light globe?? Not sure where that is on the HT.... Could it be a result from the thin wires used 2.5mm??? Maybe relay buggered. The only |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,135
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
|
quote: Originally posted by russHXTonner
.....lo and behold, the relay on my ignition has the terminals numbered in a complete |
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Hi Jim,
This can happen and has been discussed on here before. A search may turn it up as a fix was discussed (from memory and the thread would be a couple of years ago now, I think).
Cheers...Dave
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
thanks Dave, will have a look
cheers james
1970 HT UTE |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 6,069
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 207 time(s) in 188 post(s)
|
Hi jim.
I've seen this problem a few times now. When you switch the ignition off, if the motor is running, you can still get a small voltage at the brown wire from the alternator. The current flows thru the alternator warning light & this is still conn |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
Ok I have found a fix, I think. I have relaced the old relay with a 5 pin Narva 40amp relay (resister type, P/No-68028BL). I have Replaced all the wires to the relay with 6mm wire excluding the remaining old ignition wire. Have followed the new relay in |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,135
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
|
Your wiring is spot on.
I would play around with the plug gap. Different motors like different gaps.
I found 1.5mm to be good with stock compression on a blue motor, but when I upped the compression it ran better at 1.1mm. This was on real super i |
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
So is there anyway of really knowing what the gap should be without lots of re-gapping attempts??? Mick you said you dropped your gap after upping compression, I'm running 10.1 Comp, was your roughly the same??? maybe find a happy mid-point between the st |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 3,135
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
|
I think the original comp is around 9 or 9.2:1, which was happy at 1.5mm
When I upped the comp it would have been around the 10:1 mark (can't recall exactly, but when super was culled, I needed premium & 2 degrees advance to stop pinging).
I think 1 |
Cheers,
Mick _______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
Thanks Mick, i'll give it a go tonight.
cheers james
1970 HT UTE |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/12/2005(UTC) Posts: 134
|
OK Mick, Adjusted plug gaps to 1.3mm, Car runs a lot smoother on idle, but hesitates to start, even after engine is warm, without accelerator input. Can the plug gap cause this?? or is this more of a timing/Elec inition problem (maybe not getting the |
1970 Green HT UTE... |
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 23/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 279
|
G'day Jim, I had problems with mine after I put the elect dizzy in (rough idle rough acceleration, etc.)until I just went and bought a set blue motor plugs and just left them with the standard gap they came with(I checked them of course to make sure they Edited by user Thursday, 26 January 2006 8:41:49 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 117
|
Russ, What plugs are they? I am using NGK splitfires (I think they're called), no idea on designation #. They were the same plugs I had in before the electronic dizzy, just opened up to 1.5mm. Kev Edited by user Thursday, 26 January 2006 9:03:10 AM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.