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#21 Posted : Monday, 14 May 2007 10:32:47 PM(UTC)
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Just tried 2nd relay wired same way & same problem, so it probably isn't the relay but something I'm doing...any advice?

The Beige Hornet.
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#22 Posted : Monday, 14 May 2007 11:08:08 PM(UTC)
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Other people have had the same problem, and it's been raised on here several times. Dr Terry (I think) has a solution that he's posted up in response - try searching for his posts with keywords like 'relay', and you might find it. Sorry, but I can't rem
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#23 Posted : Monday, 14 May 2007 11:15:12 PM(UTC)
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Got bored... here's the thread I was talking about.

http://www.fastlane.com....topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5708

Cheers,
Jason.

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#24 Posted : Tuesday, 15 May 2007 12:13:46 AM(UTC)
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Is it wise to run a fuse in between the 12 volts from the ignition to the electronic dizzy if i was to setup in the way Dr Terry mentioned. Will this protect against surges or higher voltages etc. Or is is best to run a relay that regulates the 12 volts.
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#25 Posted : Tuesday, 15 May 2007 12:55:39 AM(UTC)
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Hi Guys.

This problem of the ignition relay not switching off is caused by slightly leaky diodes in the alternator. The easiest way to test if this is the fault, is to switch off the ignition & then disconnect the brown wire from the rear of the altern
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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#26 Posted : Tuesday, 15 May 2007 1:13:31 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for doing that research Ozjason it was very helpful. Problem is that best I can discover from reading it is that I do have it wired up the right way but my alternator is faulty...!? I seem to have the 'earth back through the alternator globe' syndr
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#27 Posted : Tuesday, 15 May 2007 1:29:27 AM(UTC)
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You may have been busy posting your last reply while Dr Terry was posting his just above a few posts... don't miss that post because it'll definitely help you out.

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#28 Posted : Tuesday, 15 May 2007 5:33:00 PM(UTC)
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Must have been posting at the same time. Thanks Dr Terry - would the diode be an internal jobbie or something I can just stick between the brown wire & the alternator? I think I'm comming around to your suggestion of changing the ign as opposed to using t
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#29 Posted : Wednesday, 16 May 2007 2:13:27 AM(UTC)
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do you need the full 12 volts to try the hei ignition before i cut or bridge anything ?in case i stuff it up its going on a 202 cheers
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#30 Posted : Wednesday, 16 May 2007 5:58:11 AM(UTC)
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No they'll run ok on the regular voltage for testing purposes.
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#31 Posted : Thursday, 24 May 2007 11:10:03 PM(UTC)
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Opened up the old girl to do the wiring - on Ign 1 there's a pink wire & a white wire. On Ign 2 there's a yellow wire that I beleive is the original coil wire - do I bridge yellow & pink to send to the dizzy, or yellow, pink & white? What if I just attach
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#32 Posted : Thursday, 24 May 2007 11:49:30 PM(UTC)
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Hi Beige.

The white wire is the ballast resistor, it joins to the yellow at the firewall connector. All you need to do is bridge the pink to the yellow, with a short piece of wire. The original yellow wire at the coil will now have 12 volts whether run
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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#33 Posted : Friday, 25 May 2007 4:51:00 PM(UTC)
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Great- Thanks again!

The Beige Hornet.
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