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HGV8 Offline
#1 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 9:53:14 AM(UTC)
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I have a pair of pre pollution heads that have bigger valves, enlarged ports etc that have been sitting in the shed

for years that only travelled around 2000 miles.

My question is will the larger 1.94" valve hit the top of a standard 3.625" 253 bore.

I also plan on fitting a mild street cam and a rebuilt quadrajet with standard inlet and outlet manifolds. Has factory style dual exhaust fitted.

I have been getting differing advice. Some saying the 1.94" valve requires milling a 2.000" dia relieve on the block deck offset in line with the valve centre. No mention of the depth of cut into the block deck.

Others saying this isn't needed unless running more then .500" lift.

Some also mention shrouding problems with these larger valves on a 253 opposed to a 308.

Want to keep the 253 as it's the original motor to the HG but not keen on milling into the block deck.

Am I wasting my time contemplating using these heads or can they be used safely with a bit of a increase in performance?

Thanks in advance

Jim



j.williams
Dr Terry Offline
#2 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 12:48:15 PM(UTC)
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Generally speaking, 253 V8s do not respond well to larger diam. valves. They often go backwards performance-wise.

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HK1837 Offline
#3 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 1:50:48 PM(UTC)
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I agree with Dr Terry. These heads are designed for a 308, so on a 253 you don't need bigger valves. Not on a street engine anyway. A 253 with pre-HX manifold, Quadrajet and dual exhaust will be fine with standard heads.

Make sure you get the right Quadrajet too. If you are going to use an early one (pre 1/75 Holden Quadrajet) use the right one for your gearbox, for an auto use an even numbered carby and manual an odd number. They have different vacuum advance and you do not want an auto's vacuum advance on a manual car and vice versa. Once you get to 1/75 LH and HJ the carby is the same for both applications (7045281) and has both ported and full vacuum for the dizzy. What is probably easiest for you unless you want it to look totally original/authentic is to use a VC/VH/WB 4.2L carby, these will have primary metering already setup for a 253 and have the choke mech on the carby already rather than having to plumb up the exhaust manifold to the choke mech on the manifold. Just buy an electric choke operator for it. 17059596 CXL is the blue motor 4.2L Quadrajet. You have to block up the original choke mech on the early manifold if going down this path and non essential but a good idea, replace the driver's side exhaust manifold with one from a HX or HZ if the choke pipe in the original HG exhaust manifold is leaking.
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HGV8 Offline
#4 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 3:34:20 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the advice Terry and HK1837.

Well it looks like those heads can stay on the shelf.

I have two inlet manifolds and a quadrajet that I was told were off a late 1971 HQ 308 auto.

Is there any difference between a HG and early HQ 308 manifold and carbie except for the numbers?

I assume these would be ok to put on my HG 253 auto without any dramas.

Here's some photo. Hoping I have all the right parts.

I 'am also chasing an original HT/G/Q 308 air cleaner at fair price. Any leads appreciated.



Jim
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HK1837 Offline
#5 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 4:57:52 PM(UTC)
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That is a HJ or LH Torana manifold that has been drilled for the extra water hole for a HT-HG. The drilled and tapped boss at the front just behind the water plug is for a HJ or LH cable throttle support, not drilled on a HT-HQ. You'll need another drilled and tapped thread at the back for the return spring on a HT-HQ - you can see it in the first photo just near the 8, look on HQ manifolds and you'll see it drilled and tapped.

The carby is a pre 9/72 HQ auto carby. Will be fine for a HT-HG but you'll need to get it built for a 253, these have different parts in the primary circuit, secondary is the same from memory.
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HGV8 Offline
#6 Posted : Friday, 29 January 2016 7:53:35 PM(UTC)
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Thanks

Funny enough both these manifolds have been drilled for the extra water hole for HT/G. When I researched the 2812094 part number of both these manifolds they seem to come up as HT/G early HQ manifolds.

Were you say the tapped boss behind water plug is not supposed to be there on HT/G and is for HJ/LH cable throttle support. I thought that was the correct position for the return spring bracket on HT/G, at the front, not the back of the manifold.

I can only assume by what your saying is the part number was the same for the casting from HT up to HJ/LH, though the drilling and tapping (machining) was slightly different?

I have spent a few hours googling 308 HT/G intake manifold and they appear to be the same as the two I have.

Maybe I 'am not understanding your explanation?



Jim

Edited by user Friday, 29 January 2016 10:25:20 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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HK1837 Offline
#7 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2016 9:43:46 AM(UTC)
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That's what I get for relying upon memory! You are right the front one is drilled for both pre-HJ and for HJ, it is the back one that isn't drilled on pre-HJ. So probably those manifolds you have are both HT-HG, or at least HQ ones that have had the water hose point drilled and tapped. That single drilled and tapped mounting point at the back for the cable throttle return spring bracket is the only difference that I know of between HQ and HJ/LH manifolds, and then the only difference between HT-HG and HQ is the HT/HG one has the boss drilled and tapped for the water hose. The different casting marks and casting numbers move and change over time but none of that is really relevant to you as a 253 never had a 4BBL anyway! That one you have in the first picture is perfect for what you want to do. f you really wanted to go super anal and make it look like a real HG 308 you'd want a 7029282 carby.
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HGV8 Offline
#8 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2016 1:01:04 PM(UTC)
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Yes I looked at getting an original HT/G 308 auto carb. They seem to be a bit harder to find and dearer.

This early HQ carb was ridiculously cheap through Hume performance and looks new. I don't know how they do it for the price. I thought bugger it, that will do.

As you say, this setup is not original to a 253 but I like it to look sort of original if you get my drift.


Jim
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HK1837 Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2016 1:19:54 PM(UTC)
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You might have to fiddle with the carb's internals for a 253. Get hold of a WB or VC-VH parts catalogue and you can see what is different between a 4.2 and 5.0L Quadrajet - there isn't much, mainly primary needles IIRC.
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HGV8 Offline
#10 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2016 4:58:57 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the tip

I was going to put it on as is not thinking.

I will chase up the 4.2 primary needles.

Jim
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HK1837 Offline
#11 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2016 8:09:47 PM(UTC)
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Try it as is as you have to pull early ones apart to change it, but when it is all setup on a dyno you'll probably have to make some changes, but if the engine has been modded the WB/VC-VH tune may not be exactly right. 253-4.2 changed a little over the years mainly in compression ratio (via pistons) and the dizzy settings, so take all that into account too.
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HGV8 Offline
#12 Posted : Sunday, 31 January 2016 9:16:02 PM(UTC)
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Its totally standard otherwise, just the factory style dual exhaust.

Motor has never been out of the car or had the heads off.

It's done about 85,000 miles, hopefully a touch more squirt won't hurt it.
j.williams
HK1837 Offline
#13 Posted : Monday, 1 February 2016 8:50:27 AM(UTC)
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I'd just try the carby as it is. Check your ignition timing versus a WB or VC-VH auto 4.2, I think these had slightly more compression than a HT-HG 253 so may have less total advance. Cam should be the same but retarded a bit in the blue engine. GMH didn't change the carby specs for single or dual exhaust. So the same carby setup in the WB/VC-VH 4.2 carb would probably work, but just ignore the idle circuit components as these started to be leaned off beginning 9/72, just focus on the primary and secondary main fuel delivery items that differ between 4.2L and 5.0L on the blue engines.

But i'd still just try the carby as is, get it all running OK, run your cam in and and dyno it where the dyno operator understands how to tune Quadrajets, then make whatever changes are needed.
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