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ExportHolden Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, 3 March 2016 6:33:21 AM(UTC)
ExportHolden

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I have an '84 Deville with factory air. The A6 compressor is stuffed.

Looking around for repair/replacement, I saw these:

Reco A6


New A6

Has anyone had experience of these? Is it worth the extra for the new one? I want a/c but I'm on a tight budget, so leaning towards the reco unit.

I've heard that the Wb has metric bolts to mount the compressor, but seeing as there's a compressor already on the car, I can just use the same mounting bolts, right?

Can I fit the replacement compressor and fit the drive belt (and fit the lines, power etc) and run the car at all? Just thinking of getting it all bolted in etc, then moving the car out of the garage for the mobile a/c guy to come around and try gassing it up.

Dr Terry Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 3 March 2016 7:05:23 AM(UTC)
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Most GM A6 compressors fitted to WBs have metric mounting bolts. Only the early ones have SAE bolts. If the original sticker is still in place the metric ones are a identified by a blue section indicating that it has metric bolts.

It's the threads in the rear of the case which matter most. You simply can't use 10mm bolts into a 3/8 threaded hole or vice versa.

A 'reco' one will be fine, depending of course on who 'reconditioned' it.

GM haven't made any of these for donkey's years, so any 'new' ones will be NOS or cheap clones made in either Mexico or China.

Dr Terry

Edited by user Thursday, 3 March 2016 7:06:38 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Spelling

If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
Rhys Offline
#3 Posted : Friday, 4 March 2016 4:43:18 PM(UTC)
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I know someone who bought a "remanufactured" A6 compressor off Ebay and it spat oil all through his engine bay, supposedly a dud front seal. They sent a replacement which did the same thing, so he ended up getting a new (unsure if NOS or Chinese) which hasn't let him down. Though in the meantime it cost him 2 extra re-gasses and postage for the ebay one.
ExportHolden Offline
#4 Posted : Thursday, 17 March 2016 4:34:32 PM(UTC)
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I'm going with a reco unit. I rang the bloke who sells them in Melbourne and he claims that AC Delco remanufactures them in the US using cores sent from Oz. Hmm, dunno about that..

Anyway, my plan is to get the reco unit and fit it myself, the get a mobile a/c bloke to charge it up and see how it goes.

I know that the system has not worked for more than 3 years (the belt is off and so is the front of the compressor -- the clutch?) so are there any other parts that def will need replacement? Rec/drier, expansion valve? Dumb question, but what's that large aluminium canister in the WB a/c system, near the a/c fan and box?

Any parts that are going to be hard to get that I should order before I get the a/c bloke to come over?
ExportHolden Offline
#5 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2016 2:14:46 PM(UTC)
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So I figured out that the aluminium canister is the rec/dryer, have one on order as well as a reco A6.

I have been reading about Hychill, and there are plenty of positive reports of using it in old school cars designed for R12.

Yes I have read all about how it's dangerous and I will blow up the car, but really?

Has anyone here actually used Hychill? I don't really want to hear second-hand stories about it, but people who have actually used it. I'm interested in using it but I have heard that it can cause compressor failure.
commodorenut Offline
#6 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2016 5:18:12 PM(UTC)
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In reality, it's a small amount of gas in the system, and the need to get a stoich ratio at the same time as a spark, the chances of kaboom are low.
Most leaks are at joins, or from impact damage to the condensor or pipes. However, if a particular model of car is renowned for evaporator core leaks (and some of them do corrode through and leak inside the cabin - like a workmate's mazda 6 that near suffocated him), then I would run away from a flammable hydrocarbon as fast as I can.

Hychill has it's place for a budget "get it going" retrofit on an old & tired R12 system that someone wants to get a few more years from.
If I was putting a new system together from scratch - especially with the cost of a compressor & other major parts, I'd be going the tried & proven R134a route (and have done so).

I had a VC SLE converted to R134a (it ran the A6 compressor) and the performance was excellent - but other work was required.
When I did my VL Brock, it was no question to go 100% with R134a.
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
 1 user thanked commodorenut for this useful post.
ExportHolden on 29/03/2016(UTC)
ExportHolden Offline
#7 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2016 5:42:59 PM(UTC)
ExportHolden

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Yeah Mick, I think I will go with R134a. It'll mean I'll need new hoses I think (they're clamped at the compressor end, which I'm told won't handle the high pressure of R134a) but I hope that's no biggie (any tips on where to buy them?).

I did get cool air out of my last WB, that I had to have the aircon recommissioned on, using R134a. The problem was the weak vacuum pods and air leaking through joins. I reckon I'll have the same issue with this WB, except at least they'll be a bit easier to get to with no centre console in the way...
Dr Terry Offline
#8 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2016 6:51:29 AM(UTC)
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The existing hoses & clamps will handle R134a fine, just add to or modify the existing condenser fan arrangement to alleviate any problems of the high side pressure going ballistic.This is a common mod, retrofitting R134a into older cars.

R134a works well in the WB/VB/VC style Harrison systems, much better actually than the HQ-HZ type.

Dr Terry

If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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