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i`ve changed from a standard hk dash with idiot lights to a 120mph sports dash with gauges.how do i go about the wiring for the temp gauge ? i have the sender to suit gauge already
cheers
jason
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Do you mean the GTS instrument cluster? I thought they were all 140MPH. Edit. You did say sports dash, which would be 120MPH. My mistake! Did you replace the loom, as well as the instrument cluster? In non GTS models the temperature switch/sender wire from the engine harness connector on the firewall goes via the ignition switch, so the light is tested during start. If I remember correctly the lamp holder for the temperature lamp is part of the loom. On GTS models the sender wire goes direct from the engine harness connector to a connector on the rear of the instrument cluster. Edited by user Sunday, 31 July 2016 1:08:07 PM(UTC)
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All you need to do is remove the terminal with the 2 dark green wires from the ignition switch connector & tape it up. Then both the oil & temp gauge senders need to be swapped to the gauge style, the original wires will connect directly to them. The only addition wiring loom to be added is that for the ammeter. Follow the genuine workshop manual circuit schematic & probably get a pro to do the work, because it carries substantial current for all devices in the car. Dr Terry Edited by user Sunday, 31 July 2016 6:49:35 PM(UTC)
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thanks gm & dr terry i`m 1/2 way there, oil gauge is sorted.i have the info for the ammeter that gm provided in a previous post also
cheers
jason
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Tell me this fellas...On the old GTS dash gauge set up they showed AMPs not VOLTs ...right? So the wiring would need to much heavier gauge ?? Now those old amp gauges only showed 30 amp + and -? Don't fit a modern alternator for the fear of damaging the gauge as the new alternators can produce more than 30 amps? I know there is a lot of questions...Sorry. Edited by user Monday, 1 August 2016 6:37:43 PM(UTC)
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good point there griffo.
i`m running a 100 amp alternator, is this going to be an issue with the ammeter ?
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That isn't quite correct. It's not that big an issue.
The ammeter is only measuring the current into (or out of) the battery. In other words, the battery charge or discharge rate.
Even if you had several devices in the car consuming say, 80 amps & the alternator is supplying that current, the 80A isn't going thru the ammeter. In everyday usage the ammeter won't see numbers past full scale.
The only times that the ammeter would 'see' any current beyond its scale, would be if the battery was quite flat or the alternator failed. The initial current consumed by the battery in recharging itself would run the ammeter past full scale for a very short time.
Alternatively, if the alternator was not working correctly & then several heavy current devices are switched on the ammeter would read a heavy discharge, well past full scale.
In either situation & only for a short time, the driver would know that something was very wrong.
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Yes, basically. The standard ammeter is 40 amps full scale in each direction. It would be ok for 20% over scale for a while, but not 150%. The standard 10AWG cable is also way too small for 100A, as are the ammeter terminating studs, and the firewall plug/socket.
I know it's a common addition these days but, unless you have some massive electrical loads, 100A seems like overkill.
A competent instrument service shop may be able to specify and supply an external shunt resistor to go in parallel with your ammeter, but it will no longer read the correct current. That would require the ammeter face to be altered.
The cable size will need be increased, and routed directly, not through the firewall plug/socket.
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I just saw Dr Terry's post, and we clearly disagree!
Terry, have you considered the case where the engine is off?
If there really are 80A loads, this current will flow from the battery via the ammeter.
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Originally Posted by: gm5735  I just saw Dr Terry's post, and we clearly disagree!
Terry, have you considered the case where the engine is off?
If there really are 80A loads, this current will flow from the battery via the ammeter. True, but in many cases seriously high loads in modern cars, i.e. EFI fuel pumps, injectors, ECUs, engine cooling fans, climate controls etc. etc. are not functioning with the key on, engine off. Also any professional auto electrician worth their salt, would wire in new high current items with a relay to by-pass to ammeter, to alleviate any overloading of the ammeter. Besides, who in their right mind is going to sit there, key on engine off with several major devices, like driving lights etc. switched on. Dr Terry |
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