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My HZ 308 UTE (1979) converted to LPG (only recently bought) has a strong smell in the cab, especially when stopping, stalls sometimes whilst driving but starts after stopping for a minute or so. I’m suspecting the evaporator, but looking for suggestions of what and how to check prior to changing it out for a new one or replacing the membranes etc. New one seems better option for the little extra it costs. Current model is OHG X-1 but found "LG AUSSIE B2 CONVERTER “ is a direct replacement apparently for the original OHG, which is now discontinued.
Any help and or suggestions greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
Diggers
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LG-B2-LPG-Converter-Reducer-Aussie-B2/231733198436?hash=item35f45ffe64:g:0QUAAOSwxu5ZHs~0:rk:4f:0
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Dr Terry will probably be more experienced than me on these, however whenever I've had problems with older gas systems it has always been the converter/evaporator. Either it has been water related (not enough water so the converter eventually freezes up like an ice block) or the internals as you state, where they wear out and won't idle properly.
I always wanted to try and make one of these work better by measuring the temperature of one of these and run a little PID controller to operate a valve on the water inlet side so that they only got enough water through them to evaporate the gas and to stop the whole thing from freezing. Essentially keeping the gas around 0degC rather than heating it more than it needs to be. This would mean the gas cools the inlet air rather than going in hotter than it needs to be. LPG boils at -42degC at atmospheric pressure which is why it freezes the converter if not enough water goes through it, but if you could slow that flow of water to keep the LPG closer to 0degC it'd have to be a lot better. |
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If your getting a smell in the car your converter maybe warped. this happens when it's been frozen to often. with the engine running get a paintbrush and soapy water and check for leaks around the top and bottom gasket. if leaks can't be stopped by tightening the screws it's warped and time for a new one. Edited by user Sunday, 11 November 2018 7:18:42 AM(UTC)
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Gas smell in the cab could also come from an overly rich exhaust too.
I run an Aussie B2 and they are bulletproof when you do the following:
1. Filter the incoming LPG very, very well. And maintain those filters.
2. Run dedicated water lines to B2 - I use the heater outlet on the thermostat housing, and return it to the water pump, and don't have any other junctions in the pipes.
Mine's mounted up high (which is usually a no-no, as air goes to high spots first) but because it's fed a good supply of water it has no issues.
You don't actually need a lot of water - I stepped down from the 5/8 heater hose to 1/2 lines (easier to run neatly) and a mate is running 3/8 lines on his 308 with no freezing issues.
It's the constant supply & flow that is critical to prevent freezing.
The fastest way to determine if it's a water flow issue is to check the converter as soon as it stalls, and if it's frosty, then that's the issue. If it takes you a minute to let it thaw before it starts again after stalling, try pouring tap water (not hot water) over the converter to see if it speeds it up. I used to carry a couple of 4L bottles of water in the boot in winter when I ran a dedicated LPG car as a daily. I would need them occasionally, but then I worked out the process and the engine's water flow (particularly the cold bypass - so you still have supply when the thermostat is closed) and it solved all the issues. |
Cheers,
Mick
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Originally Posted by: HK1837  Dr Terry will probably be more experienced than me on these, however whenever I've had problems with older gas systems it has always been the converter/evaporator. Either it has been water related (not enough water so the converter eventually freezes up like an ice block) or the internals as you state, where they wear out and won't idle properly.
I always wanted to try and make one of these work better by measuring the temperature of one of these and run a little PID controller to operate a valve on the water inlet side so that they only got enough water through them to evaporate the gas and to stop the whole thing from freezing. Essentially keeping the gas around 0degC rather than heating it more than it needs to be. This would mean the gas cools the inlet air rather than going in hotter than it needs to be. LPG boils at -42degC at atmospheric pressure which is why it freezes the converter if not enough water goes through it, but if you could slow that flow of water to keep the LPG closer to 0degC it'd have to be a lot better. im not sure if we are talking aboutthe same thing , but there was a kit put together in the states ( no longer available ) that uses a vac opperated heater tap , solenoid controled vacuum switch & a temperature sender unit the idea is , when engine reaches opp temp the sender unit switches on the the solenoid to apply manifold vacuum to the heatertap , hi vacuum will close the heater tap and slow coolant flow to the convertor , limmiting the heating of the LPG , like you said ! you want change of state of the Propane from Liquid to Gas but you dont want to add any excess heat ( limmit expansion of both the incoming atm air and also the Propane ) keeping both as dense as possible , im still experimenting with mine ( dedicated LPG 253 in my tonner ) , dont do it without the temp switch 😥
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