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Joined: 31/03/2024(UTC) Posts: 6 Location: Brisbane
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Hi All
Finished getting my HJ on the road and really only done short 20 Kay trips so far. Note drum rear and disc front
Took a drive yesterday for lunch (about 20 Kay's from home) and just as we arrived I could smell burning and realized I had smake coming from the rear passenger wheel. I assumed brakes locked on and did not want to chance the drive called Racq. Waited an hour and had no issue pushing the car in neutral to position for the truck so must have let the pressure off.
When home I noticed the 'handbrake' light on and thought I may have left it on but checked and fine. Then with a little googling have worked out the proportioner valve has lit up and I guess activated.
I have jacked the wheel, spins fine, brake pedal feels normal and when applies brakes on the stand.
Looking for some help:
1) Proportioner has failed? I have removed the switch and can see the shaft is across. Google tells me I should or may see fluid causing it to fail but appears dry? 2) what else could have caused it to activate? 3) I cant see how to reset which again Google tells me to do? 4) what should I check next? Flush fluid? %) Should I just buy a new proportioner (not sure which after market ones are available to slot straight in)
Appreciate any or all advice.
Thanks Clayton
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Joined: 21/12/2018(UTC) Posts: 90 Location: SA Thanks: 22 times Was thanked: 10 time(s) in 10 post(s)
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It might be the proportioning valve but it could be the springs pulling the shoes back into place are weak. They are 40 years old and have been repeatedly stretched, heated and cooled for decades. So when you apply the brakes the shoes contact the drum and then it takes a while for them to come back off of the drum. Grab some new ones from your nearest brake specialist. They should be so strong that it is a real struggle to get them on. Last time I changed mine the brake shop conveniently had a spring kit available with all the springs in it.
The reset is just 'unscrew the top of the proportioning valve and screw it back in again'. The light will go out then. Expect the light to come on every few years or so for no known reason. This is normal, just reset it.
The other reason the light will come on is if the wire to the handbrake switch is shorting out somewhere. Not the case here, I think, but worth knowing.
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 31/03/2024(UTC) Posts: 6 Location: Brisbane
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Thanks tonner.
Noted on the springs, may just buy a kit from rares and do them all.
I have removed the sensor and it has not reset. I think I have read posts that indicate I may need to bleed the brakes so will give that shot.
Still trying to get in my head the connection between the lock up and the valve activating. From what I read it should do that if it detects a leak or failure in the line and activate to stop the loss of fluid. Or, failure of the valve itself that should show fluid in the sensor part
No leaks, still plenty of fluid. Hoping someone may be able to help me join the dots.
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Is it all proper HJ? Or is it a mismatch of parts? Remembering that HQ have an inline prop valve and HJ onwards have it in the unit in the engine bay. |
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I'm no expert but I think what happened was the brake fluid boiled when the rear brakes got smoking hot. This caused a pressure drop in the lines which activated the brake warning light. After a couple of pumps of the brake pedal the pressure in the lines would have built up again so the light will now stay off.
Again I'm no expert but I don't think the proportioning valves on these Holdens stop the loss of brake fluid if there is a leak somewhere. Maybe on other cars, dunno. The job of the valve is to apply less hydraulic pressure through the brake lines to the rear drum brakes than to the front discs. This is because it takes a lot less pressure to apply drum brakes to the same level of stopping power as discs. You may have seen drum brake boosters in older cars, they are half the size of the one you have for use with discs but still give the same stopping power.
I would say it is worthwhile to bleed them now, and pump enough fluid through to flush out any old stuff. It wouldn't have appreciated getting that hot. You might think about changing the wheel cylinders too. Pretty good chance they got cooked and it didn't do the rubber parts inside any good.
All part of the fun!
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Originally Posted by: HK1837 Is it all proper HJ? Or is it a mismatch of parts? Remembering that HQ have an inline prop valve and HJ onwards have it in the unit in the engine bay. Proper HJ mate. Prop in the engine bay Edited by user Monday, 1 April 2024 1:28:53 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Newbie
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Joined: 31/03/2024(UTC) Posts: 6 Location: Brisbane
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So I bleed my brakes and pushed new fluid to both back brakes. Proportioner valve did not reset but remembered reading that it had to be removed then bled again the valve returned to the centre and the light went out.
Question - is it normal to have some drag for a number revolutions after depressing the brake pedal? Brake locks up nicely when pushed but is tight for a few spins. Is this right or is that what may have caused my heart problem? Could it be the springs are not pulling it back well enough?
Thanks for any advice.
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Yep. That's exactly what was happening with my drums. The shoes weren't coming off the drums so they were heating up. They should come back instantly.
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Rank: Newbie
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ok. New spring kit picked up today from Rares so will fit up Saturday.
See how I go
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Rank: Newbie
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Hopefully closed this one out, so will comment for others.
I replaced with a new spring kit and bled the rear brakes as per manual.
Only done a 15k drive but used brakes a bit and the stopped and put the heat gun on the drums.
Seems to be all good, suggest new springs did the job
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