thats what happens in my HX, i was told my 173 has the wrong inlet manifold/carby, off a 202 or 186..

Fuel filter, accelerater pump, points, timing, condenser, coil, vacuum hoses.

Another few to check on top of those mentioned above:

That the EGR valve on the outlet of the exhaust manifold isnt stuck closed;
That the auto choke isnt stuck on;
Make sure there isnt a "potato" in the exhaust (by potato I mean blockage, could be a collapsed muffler);
HEI dizzy module.


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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

Sounds like heat transfer compound on the HEI dizzy module.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

Agree Jim, my post wasnt re the problem, but in reference to the cream/lubricant HZ Sandman was referring to.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

quote:

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Originally posted by jim
HEI dizzys usually just stop in my experience(modules usually),this seems to be an intermittent problem.Going back to basics,you only need .fuel ,air and spark....air is relatively unavoidable,so its..fuel or spark.Im gonna guess change ..carby and dizzy..,this "WILL" tell you something.P.S. Give us all an update.

Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision!

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Recently, had an issue with a rebuilt distributor. Fitted VK injection set onto a red 202 using 12 port head & distributor from the complete VK black motor.
Distributor from VK Commodore got a complete rebuild prior to startup. Ran well for about a month. Problem surfaced with extreme pig rooting & not able to idle except at around 1200 RPM, but not much over that. Essentially, not drivable. Replaced EFI ECU to no avail. Contacted guy that rebuilt distributor to bench test for me. Found the problem, one small wire within the distributor was broken, but just making contact. (sorry, not sure of the wires purpose, possible module connection within distributor)
One suggestion was faulty module, but I thought the same as you Jim, module problem stops motor completely. But the wire connecting it appeared to be the issue. Sorted now.
If possible Ted, are you able to replace distributor with another one of known quantity? Then perhaps the coil to isolate the issue if all the other suggestions dont bring you any love.

Utility8

Edited by user Saturday, 19 December 2009 11:59:48 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

quote:

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Originally posted by jim
Byron ,as I have never heard of this cream, in your opinion is it kind of a fixer for some slightly bad designing?ps interpretted wrong by me AGAIN!lol

Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision!

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Heat sink compound, used on power electronics to transfer heat to a heatsink. Im not saying that is what was described above, but that is what it sounds like to me (just read HX Sandmans comment above with this in mind). From memory you need to use this compound on some dizzy modules. I think I remember using it on the last Chev HEI I worked on (with in cap coil).

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

most of the times the module will just stop working all together, saying that i have seen a vk v8 that felt like it was running out of fuel, i play with the carby ended up i lifted up the module resealed it with new heat sink problem solved, also had a vk 6 that would not start undid the mounting screw retighten started a bad earth, if it has the varijet carb check the fuel filter in the carb it shelf it,s behind the big nut where the fuel line goes in, most just remove them.
let us know what you find, pete.

Hey fellas, just another idea to throw into the ring. I had a problem a few years back with similar symptoms and ended up finding out my carbon canister had broken down and was sucking fine pieces of carbon into the fuel line and clogging up the filter in the carby. Ended up needing to rebuild the carby to clean out all carbon pieces and bypassed the canister. No problems ever since. Hope that helps, and again, let us know the outcome. Cheers and a Merry Christmas to all.

I think WB UTEs problem will be the cone filter in the front of the Varajet carby, as petaus has described.

The white grease causing problems is one of the great urban myths. The grease itself is needed to transfer the heat from the ignition module to the diecast body of the distributor, but if it gets too hot the module will die & not recover.

The usual scenario is that people undo the 2 screws holding the module & lid, put new grease under the module, refit the lid & the engine fires into life again. All that has happened is that the earth to the module which is thru the hold-down screws has become faulty because it was corroded or the screws were loose. Removing & then refitting the screws has actually cured the problem by once again giving the module a good earth.

Dr Terry

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There are only 3 types of people in the world.
1. Those who make things happen.
2. Those who watch things happen.
3. Those who wonder what happened.