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Filling Rust Pits in Thick Walled Steel
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jpb308 Offline
#1 Posted : Tuesday, 19 April 2011 8:26:04 AM(UTC)
jpb308

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Hey there

I've been lucky enough to score some 'bargains' on eBay that need a little restoring.

Once blasted they have several major rust pits in them that I'd like to fill with metal rather than bog.

One is a towbar and also a couple of wheels.

So is it possible and how is it done?? Welder maybe??

I'd like to get the tounge of the tow bar chromed. Would the fill show through the chrome??

Thanks for your thoughts.

Cheers

Jeremy
The G will roll again.... eventually
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peter_flane Offline
#2 Posted : Wednesday, 20 April 2011 4:48:31 AM(UTC)
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It would not be recommended to chrome a tongue. The process encourages surface cracks in the metal. Not ideal for a towbar. Not allowed on any steering components at all for this reason.

You can fill a rust pit with a welder, and linish it back. If you want to do it, then do it. It is real easy, just takes time.
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
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jpb308 Offline
#3 Posted : Wednesday, 20 April 2011 8:06:54 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Pete

I'd like to chrome plate it so that it looks like the NASCO ones.

And it's only ever likely to tow a box trailer at most.

So it would be a really slow process then?? I've never welded before.

Well I did but it was with a stick welder for a catch on a gate which didn't go at all well :)

Thanks for the advice.

Cheers

Jeremy
The G will roll again.... eventually
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peter_flane Offline
#4 Posted : Wednesday, 20 April 2011 8:42:10 AM(UTC)
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Just remember too that a towbar must have a safety chain that is D shackled to the towbar, not the tongue. The old rams horns on the tongue are way out of date.

Retro as you like, but you still put your kids in a lap sash seatbelt for safety. Towbar mounting is a point of safety that should not be ignored also.
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
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jpb308 Offline
#5 Posted : Wednesday, 20 April 2011 5:45:23 PM(UTC)
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Fair call Peter

Will make sure there's somewhere to shackle onto the towbar itself as well.

Now to learn how to weld...

Cheers

Jeremy
The G will roll again.... eventually
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The HKTG Garage Offline
#6 Posted : Wednesday, 20 April 2011 5:59:47 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by jpb308
Fair call Peter

Will make sure there's somewhere to shackle onto the towbar itself as well.

Now to learn how to weld...

Cheers

Jeremy


I have an original 1969 tow bar on my HT van with rams horns and Nasco trailer wiring harness (no ugly plug screwed to the spare wheel door). I towed a car trailer to Melbourne, picked up a Prem and towed it back to Adelaide with my stock standard 186 3 speed manual drum brakes all round. Did it no worries.
The HKTG Garage. The Home of HK HT HG Holden.
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dirty davo Offline
#7 Posted : Thursday, 21 April 2011 4:19:12 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by HKTG Parts Recovery
quote:
Originally posted by jpb308
Fair call Peter

Will make sure there's somewhere to shackle onto the towbar itself as well.

Now to learn how to weld...

Cheers

Jeremy


I have an original 1969 tow bar on my HT van with rams horns and Nasco trailer wiring harness (no ugly plug screwed to the spare wheel door). I towed a car trailer to Melbourne, picked up a Prem and towed it back to Adelaide with my stock standard 186 3 speed manual drum brakes all round. Did it no worries.

i can only remember those primative front drums bein a death trap on downills. lord must be on yor side LMFAO
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FastEHHolden Offline
#8 Posted : Wednesday, 27 April 2011 10:39:16 PM(UTC)
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I would just use a flap disk and smooth the surface down to the level of the pitting.

Flamers- Please don't engage me in a discussion on strength reduction
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