Removeing a windscreen without breaking it well you got to be supper paitient but 9 times out 10 u will break it so get a pro, but to stop the black **** sticking to everything talcom powders the go.Tight bolts crc or wd ofcoarse but sometimes a good wack on the end of it will free it up.

toptrix

Speaking of night , I was driving home in my first car at night and it was coughing an spluttering ,for some reason I pulled over and lifted the bonnet and saw all these sparks everywhere ,leads ,coil and distributer.
So since then I check this sort of thing by just lifting up the bonnet slightly to see any sparks.(It does work!)I found that out by accident.

Jim in adelaide

If you are still using WD40 or CRC, do yourself a favour next time you go to buy some and get Inox instead. Far better product.

As Tex says "learn how to read wiring diagrams", It saves heaps of time in diagnosis. Also remember your earths as they are very often the cause of a lot of faults, especially on EFI systems.
To save on fuses when looking for a short circuit in your wiring, Use a bulb hooked up across fuse terminals. When the short is present the bulb will light up and when it is fixed the bulb will go out. NOTE
A. (best done with the component at end of circuit removed so as not to get a dummy signal)
B. (Try it out first on a good circuit to get the hang of it.)
C. (As with using a bulb type lead light remember hot bulbs can melt carpet, seat covers, dash trim etc and sometimes cause fires so be careful please.)
Absinth, I"ll have to agree with you on the Inox, It would have to rate as one of the best consumable products I have ever used. The local farmers here use it heaps. The red soil has a tendency to seize up bearings and anything else with close tolerances, so it often gets called upon so that the job can get finished instead of spending the day in the workshop. (careful wont stop failed harvester bearings burning wheat crops though) 2 types that I know of, plain "INOX" that fizzes to penetrate in. and "LANOX" lanolin to help stop corrosion. Try your local gun shop as sometimes they sell it for under ten dollars, One parts shop here has it for over 20 and on average 12 to 14 dollars a can at the local hardware store.

Another handy tip (rather than degenerating into the "you are talking rubbish" rant that these threads seem to generate) is the disposable latex or vinyl gloves you get in boxes of 100 to 200 from Repco, Supercheap, etc. Doesnt stop the grease from getting up your arms or in your hair, but you dont lose much if anything in ability to hold fiddly bolts, nuts, screws, etc and clean up time is much reduced.
Also, change them fairly frequently (they work out a few cents each) to reduce amount of grease you are putting back onto jobs.

Rather than pulling off plug leads to check for which cylinder is misfiring, use a timing light on each lead in turn. Much less likely to zap oneself, and if you shine on balancer you can see if the firing is consistent.

__________________________________________
Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down.

Good thread
When putting a HQ interior back into the car make sure you put the A pillar inner covers on before you put the windscreen in. Makes it very difficult if you put the screen in before, if you try to put them on after you risk cracking the screen.

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Bluez wrote

When putting a HQ interior back into the car make sure you put the A pillar inner covers on before you put the windscreen in. Makes it very difficult if you put the screen in before, if you try to put them on after you risk cracking the screen.

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Haha, made that mistake with a HQ tonner years ago, didnt crack the windscreen but spent friggin hours digging out black tar to get them to fit properly.

With HQ to HZ, if you leave the windscreen in when re-painting your car, DONT remove the rubber spacer blocks between the cowl and the bottom of the windscreen otherwise the next time it rains you get to have a shower while youre driving. On hot days the tar softens and the windscreen will slip down creating a gap at the top.

Thinners in an icecream container is not something I would recommend either, I did it many years ago to quickly clean out a spray gun and thought it would last a little longer than the couple of minutes it took to eat through the container. Thinners is stored in metal containers for a reason.

Yes I Do...!

Jim in adelaide

before an engine swap, dump the radiator,.... then drive into the shed next to the hoist.

WANTED:
QR 662xxx
1984 WB oyster crashpad
1x15x8 Cheviot armoulite HQ
pair of 15" Dragway centrelines suit HQ

quote:

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Originally posted by lxtoranahzute
Removeing a windscreen without breaking it well you got to be supper paitient but 9 times out 10 u will break it so get a pro, but to stop the black **** sticking to everything talcom powders the go.Tight bolts crc or wd ofcoarse but sometimes a good wack on the end of it will free it up.

toptrix

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to remove a bostic sealed screen.

always try to find wire ends first, if you do hook up 24V & heat up screen seal (1/2hr) & simply push out.

or if you cant find wire ends.

you will need the following;

a extra person inside the car.

a wound wire bonnet cable off a commodore or old piano string (solid wire will break).

a bottle/jar of degreaser & application brush.

First feed wire through seal into cab at top of screen, cut seal using a sawing action & liberally apply degreaser, whilst assistant helps maintain tension, take time to apply enough degreaser to stop seal re-sealing, take care on corners as wire can jamb or break on body joins.
once you have removed screen, you can use shellite or acetone to remove old seal. (dont clean the screen on or near the car, as these spirits will damage the paint on contact).

HOLDEN The Great Way to Move