Powerglide crossmember should be very close for TH700. May just need new holes in the crossmember.

Tunnel may be close. Not 100% sure. TH350 fits. TH700R4 is slightly longer...

You need a "brain" to operate the torque converter, like an aftermarket B&M kit.

Starter should be fine

Not sure on the vac line on TH700. Others?

TH700 and TH400 use the same flex plate on a 308, so I assume itd do the same thing on a SBC. Just check Powerglide and TH400 with small converter are the same flex plate.

TH700 bolts straight to SBC/BBC.



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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

I did the conversion from TH350 to a TH700 out of a VN.
1. If Powerglide is same length as TH350, the TH700 is approximately 60mm longer in the rear mount location.
2. Trans tunnel may need massaging as Agro reckons. TH700 boxes are a tad bulckier at the rear.
3. The torque converter lockup is activated by 12v supply, as said above. The control of this can be achieved by an ECU, a manual switch that is overridden by activating the brake light circuit or by a pressure switch fitted to the trans. I have yet to fit the lockup switching system to mine, but will be using the pressure switching system. There is a limitation to the stall of 2500RPM if wanting to use the lock up capability. (that was the case 3 years ago)
4. Starter will fit.
5. No vacuum line.
6. As above, compare converters to be sure.
7. As above, will bolt up.

The small cable, like a kick down cable, is actually called a TV (throttle valve) cable. It will be part of the system that picks the change points of the auto & needs to be set up on the throttle crank of your carby to a very specific point. The cable connection point on the carby needs to be accurately positioned from the center pivot of the butterfly shaft & the outer cable then mounted within a specific range from the shaft as well. The outer cable is adjustable. Different positions giving the auto earlier or later shift points from memory. Google the TH700, there is a reasonable amount of info available for this set up. I might still have these details kicking around. Email if you need it.
Good auto. In my case with 3.5 gears & 265/50 x 15s, at 110kmh, my RPM was 3400 with the TH350. Now the TH700 allows the motor to sit around 2400. The torque converter lockup should reduce another 200RPM or so. Trip economy went from 15mpg to around 20-21mpg. City, not so much, still thrash it.
Found a link that may help with some info. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/

Utility8

Edited by user Saturday, 20 March 2010 7:33:57 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Mine had a 2.78 ratio with 265/50 x 14 tyres.
All i can tell you is that it went from Newcastle to Canberra on 3/4 of a tank with a/c on all the way, and i went through Sydney afternoon peak hour traffic on the way.
It was doing about 1800 rpm sitting on 110km/h.

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75 HJ Sandman Pano
78 HZ BO6 Pano

It's taken a while, but have picked up a B&M TH700 to install. I hope to have a go at fitting it under the car this weekend, I'll then know what needs to be done with the floor brace etc to get enough clearance.
Anyone had a go at the same install recently? I think I read somewhere that someone just heated up the floor brace and tapped it in a little, wondering how much and whereabouts?

quote:

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Originally posted by HK350_2233
Then cut the curve arch ( left to right). Once cut gave it a hit up and tacked. Then sikaflexed it to make it smooth.

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Nice !!

Dr Terry

quote:

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Originally posted by Dr Terry

quote:

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Originally posted by HK350_2233
Then cut the curve arch ( left to right). Once cut gave it a hit up and tacked. Then sikaflexed it to make it smooth.

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Nice !!

Dr Terry

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Do you think so ? Or dodgy ?

I�m in the process of installing a T700 into a HK ute, but it has a HT Prem subframe fitted. We heated the trans tunnel brace and tapped it in, made it concave instead of convex, thus avoiding cutting & welding. (see pic below). To avoid rust problems happening after the heating process, we drilled a hole in the floor (from the inside) and sprayed a heap of fish oil into the cavity. Used a CRS rear crossmember and found a rear mount that was not quite as high as the other rear mounts that I�ve been collecting for a while. Haven�t done the final installation of the motor and box yet, but just about to. It fitted up nicely before paint, just hoping nothing has to be changed now that it�s painted.
For the lock up, I use a momentary rocker switch, a couple of relays, a Commodore Cruise Control Stop Light Switch and a Bezel style indicator light. Push the switch one way and the converter locks up and the light comes on. Push the switch the other way or touch the brakes and the converter unlocks and the light goes off. Also did a quick change to the wiring inside the T700 so that converter lockup can only happen in 4th gear. There�s info on the web about how to do this. Can supply you with my wiring diagram if you want.
Bob

quote:

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Originally posted by HK350_2233

That's easy to do when you car is just a shell, can heat as much as you want. Ht prem might have the carpet and all the other stuff in that could burn. Correct me if I'm wrong but I would think you would have to take seats, console, carpet and underlay out to do some heating ?

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Oh dear!

Next question is, what version T700 do you have and what are you doing about the speedo? Bearing in mind that I'm still building my car and have this bridge to cross yet ............ the T700 I have is a mechanical speedo type and I want to use a standard (mechanical) speedo. It looks like the speedo drive ratios are going to be out to buggery, but I've seen some correction factor devices for sale. For example, if the speedo reads 10% too high, install a minus 10% device. What's your situation?

My understanding is the VN (V8) model of the TH700 is the preferred option. Needs no ECU to function & torque converter lockup is possible through a couple of methods.
I needed to sort out speedo error once all was up & running.
Easily done by either calculating the error & sorting out the correct gear mathematically or use the gear you have & get a ratio box made to compensate for the error.
A ratio box is about the size of a matchbox & simply connects inline between your speedo cable & trans.
The way mine was done was to travel an exact measured mile while a counter was connected to my speedo cable at the speedo head end.
EH's require 1000 revolution per mile. The difference between the counter reading & 1000 is the error. To compensate for the error, a set of small gears are selected & fitted into the ratio box to give the correct reading of 1000.
You will only get within a few percentage accuracy with speedo gear selection, but the ratio box can get it spot on.
Most competent auto instrument repairers should be able to point you in the right direction.
I used Ringwood Speedos in Melbourne.

Edited by user Saturday, 15 October 2011 7:27:37 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified