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hainzy Offline
#41 Posted : Sunday, 20 June 2010 9:10:57 AM(UTC)
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Awwesome. Thanks Mick.
Thats exactly what I wanted to know.
Think im almost across all this craziness now.
VN K FRAME
VN S/RACK
VB/K V8 MANUAL PEDAL BOX
VN 304 & T5
VN CLUTCH FORK
VN LOOM & puter
VN P/STEER & AIR CON
VH RADIATOR
GET HOSES TO FIT AIR CON AND P/STEERING
VH TRIMATIC CROSSMEMBER DRILLED/SLOTTED OUT (forward or back?)

The car im looking at also has extractors already so Im hoping theyll fit..

Cheers again!

Think thats it so far.....
hainzy Offline
#42 Posted : Monday, 21 June 2010 3:59:53 AM(UTC)
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Hi Mick. You say VB to VK for the pedal box.. is VL compatible too? Cheers.
commodorenut Offline
#43 Posted : Monday, 21 June 2010 7:25:14 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
Awwesome. Thanks Mick.
Thats exactly what I wanted to know.
Think im almost across all this craziness now. VN K FRAME - YES VN S/RACK - YES VB/K V8 MANUAL PEDAL BOX- YES VN 304 & T5- YES VN CLUTCH FORK- YES VN LOOM & puter- YES VN P/STEER & AIR CON- YES (compressor only, not the rest of the AC VH RADIATOR- YES (VH V8 only) GET HOSES TO FIT AIR CON AND P/STEERING- Use the VN V8 p/steer hoses VH TRIMATIC CROSSMEMBER DRILLED/SLOTTED OUT (forward or back?)- pop it all in the car & see - there's so much tolerance variation that you'll need to mod it to suit your own car

The car im looking at also has extractors already so Im hoping theyll fit..- the CAT clearance will be the biggest issue - nothing you can't fix easily at an exhaust shop (fit the extractors to the motor first though)


Cheers,

Mick
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Cheers,

Mick
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commodorenut Offline
#44 Posted : Monday, 21 June 2010 7:29:19 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
Hi Mick. You say VB to VK for the pedal box.. is VL compatible too? Cheers.

VL 6 are hydraulic (not suitable for the cable clutch on the T5).
Only VL V8 manuals are Group As - doubt you'd find a pedal box from one of them, and there are variations again that make them difficult to fit VB-VK (not impossible, unless you don't own a grinder, drill & tap set).

Stick with VB-VK V8 pedals - bolt in fit, no hassles - nothing else is suitable.

Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
hainzy Offline
#45 Posted : Monday, 21 June 2010 8:20:22 PM(UTC)
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Awesome. Thanks for that Mick. Youve been an absolute legend with all this.

Plus your guide on BC site.

When its eventually done I'll drive to visit you and show you the VH!

Cheers.
playwme Offline
#46 Posted : Monday, 21 June 2010 11:56:22 PM(UTC)
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Don't want to sound like a killjoy but considering you have a LPG system and a T350 in the car already, why not just whack in a 350 built for gas crate motor and run it on straight gas? I dont really see that much benefit of an injected motor with a piggyback gas system over a dedicated gas built motor.

I'm not overly familiar with the new gas injection so someone may be able to answer this question. Does the Gas ECU require an existing ECU in the car to piggyback off, or will it run straight gas independently as long as the motor has the correct sensors?

HK1837 Offline
#47 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 12:07:05 AM(UTC)
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VP had factory LPG using standard ECU with modded memcal. System was designed AFAIK to start on ULP and switch to LPG once warm. Was on V6 only but readily added to V8 memcal. You just have to run a bigger chip in a memcal, and double stack two programs with a switch to jump between the programs. One program has timing setup for fuel, the other for LPG. From memory when in LPG mode the ULP injectors are simply turned off. Very easily done.

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Dr Terry Offline
#48 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 1:28:47 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by playwme
Don't want to sound like a killjoy but considering you have a LPG system and a T350 in the car already, why not just whack in a 350 built for gas crate motor and run it on straight gas? I dont really see that much benefit of an injected motor with a piggyback gas system over a dedicated gas built motor.

I'm not overly familiar with the new gas injection so someone may be able to answer this question. Does the Gas ECU require an existing ECU in the car to piggyback off, or will it run straight gas independently as long as the motor has the correct sensors?

A 350 SBC is a lousy fit in a Commodore. I've never seen a successful or drivable conversion.

To answer the 2nd part, the piggyback LPG ECU requires the original ECU to be fully operation because it uses its output to drive the LPG injectors. The LPG injection system also starts on petrol & then switches over to LPG as soon as it reaches a preset temperature. The main advantage of injected LPG is that it uses all the design features of factory EFI (drivability, economy etc.) without any of power losses associated with venturi style LPG dual fuel systems.

Dr Terry

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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
hainzy Offline
#49 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 2:13:47 AM(UTC)
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Thanks guys.

Dave quey put me on to a bloke here in ballarat who specialises in performance gas conversions etc so Im hoping he'll be able to arrange that. One question youve raised though, is do I have to convert back to petrol as well now to start the car, or will i still be able to run straight gas?? Thus not bothering with the EFI tank and lines?
Dr Terry Offline
#50 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 2:34:31 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
Thanks guys.

Dave quey put me on to a bloke here in ballarat who specialises in performance gas conversions etc so Im hoping he'll be able to arrange that. One question youve raised though, is do I have to convert back to petrol as well now to start the car, or will i still be able to run straight gas?? Thus not bothering with the EFI tank and lines?
Talk to your performance LPG guy. Why go to the bother of fitting an EFI engine, if your not going to use the EFI.

You could use a Harrop manifold & run a straight gas downdraught mixer as well as a normal HEI dissy.

Dr Terry

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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
playwme Offline
#51 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 3:34:31 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Dr Terry
quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
One question youve raised though, is do I have to convert back to petrol as well now to start the car, or will i still be able to run straight gas?? Thus not bothering with the EFI tank and lines?
Why go to the bother of fitting an EFI engine, if your not going to use the EFI.


Dr Terry

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Thats exactly the point I was thinking of. It's a lot of stuffing around to put in an EFI engine when the injectors are going to be turned off 98% of the time.

If the 350's are no good in commodores then surely a nicely built 308 with a decent gas system will be just as reliable and a whole lot simpler? I've seen some real cracking LPG only cars that put out some pretty decent horsepower at relatively low build cost. There seem to be a lot of guys that spend a heap of money on an engine only to find out their cars too rusty or they don't have enough money to finish the build. Might be worth looking for one of these engines for sale. They generally sell for a lot less than the build cost.
hainzy Offline
#52 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 9:26:45 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys.

Because ive always had older cars the whole EFI thing is still a learning curve for me.

I thought that the gas would just be injected in the same way the petrol is and i could just use the alternative (gas) fuel.. But reading what youve said, that doesnt seem to be the case as the injectors get turned off and the gas kicks in... Is that right?

I appreciate playwme's point too about having a nice 308 on straight gas. Thats what i already have but its the original Brock/308 motor and its part of the value of the car so I kinda want to put it off to the side and not stress about it.

The reasons I want to do this, are 1 - to preserve the original HDT engine and run a dime-a-dozen engine, 2 - reliablity, 3 - economy (ignoring the original conversion cost) 4 - The fun of commiting to a major car project and getting to play in the shed and 5 - having a modernised yet old school daily driver...

So for those reasons, am i better to just stick the EFI in and run petrol, and piss the gas off? Is duel fuel unnecessary in this situation or is it worth having? For econmical reasons I guess. How does petrol compare economically to gas in an EFI situation?

Sorry to sound like a nuffy but this is a bit of an organic process and im really appreciative of all your input..
Dr Terry Offline
#53 Posted : Tuesday, 22 June 2010 10:25:12 PM(UTC)
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Hi hainzy.

It does sound as though you have really put some thought in to this project. If it was my car, I would fit the EFI in its entire (stock) form & run a modern LPG injection system as we have discussed. The LPG injectors are separate units to the petrol injectors & require small nozzles to be fitted (drilled & tapped) near the existing EFI injectors. The electronics are quite simple because you've done most of the work by fitting the EFI system.

Taking your points one at a time:-

1. Put your HDT engine to one side & run the VN/VP 304 in unmodified form to keep it simple & to control costs.

2. Reliability. You can't get a much simpler or more reliable EFI set-up than the VN/VP V8 Delco. If you keep everything stock & fit a good quality sequential LPG system, it will be more reliable than the old V8 carby & mixer set-up.

3. Economy. This gets down the the size of your right foot. For starters, the EFI motor will be more economical than the old carby 308 (if you keep it stock). In my experience you will use around 20% more LPG than petrol by volume (for injected systems), but LPG is slightly less than half the price per litre. Your fuel bill will reduce by 40-50 %, will no loss of performance. As a matter of fact, if tuned correctly, you will get a slight gain because LPG has a higher octane rating than petrol (around 110), but remember this is about economy. not power.

4. A project of this type will give you a great deal of job satisfaction. You should be able to do most, if not all, of the work yourself.

5. This set-up is the perfect balance between old-school & modern technology & yet you won't even need an engineering inspection report for it.

Many people ask me what are the negatives of running LPG. I really think the only downside is having the tank in the boot (loss of luggage space). You already have this, so effectively there is no down-side to this project at all.

Dr Terry

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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
hainzy Offline
#54 Posted : Wednesday, 23 June 2010 9:09:53 PM(UTC)
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Thanks again Doc.

I really appreciate the time taken by you and the other gurus to answer my questions!

I spoke to Mick at Pro gas and he agreed with everything youve said. He also recommended keeping ULP as the starting option, as here in ballarat its impossible to start a straight gas car in winter. Which is what i found with my sandman...

So Im just gunna put the VN tank in and he will take care of the lines.

Ive sourced a pedal box and I think a trimatic xmember so the only thing holding me up is the VL intermediate shaft which is proving a bit more elusive...

Oh and the guy who bought my sandman hasnt picked it up yet so ive got no room to get stuck into it...

But getting there thanks to the excellent advice received from everyone.

(I even helped out the local commodore wrecker who has a VH sitting there with a newer K frame and cant get the steering to fit.... Props to the doc, Byron and Mick!!)

Cheers again.

hainzy Offline
#55 Posted : Friday, 25 June 2010 10:57:25 PM(UTC)
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Getting a bit closer now...

Picked up the donor car yesterday.

FACTORY V8 5 SPEED WAGON Pretty uncommon far as I can tell. Out of rego and hasnt gone for a while so it coughed and spluttered beyond about 80 ks so needs a decent tune and the injectors cleaned out etc. far as I can tell... But thatll all happen in time.

Will gut it like a fish then sell of the carcass...

PICS





Jim5.0 Offline
#56 Posted : Friday, 25 June 2010 11:29:05 PM(UTC)
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A word of advice. Get the VN tuned and running properly before you pull the engine.

This way you'll start with a known quantity.


Vandals and graffiti "artists" do everyone a favour and target parking meters and fixed speed cameras only.

hainzy Offline
#57 Posted : Saturday, 26 June 2010 1:34:35 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Jim. I was thinking about doing that. Thought it might be better to make sure its just a general tune up it needs rather than anything more sinister...

Also does anyone know what the general wiring plan of attack is? Looking at everything Im finding that the most daunting.. Do i just rip out the whole loom from both cars and try to get the VN one to fit the VH?


Dr Terry Offline
#58 Posted : Saturday, 26 June 2010 2:06:27 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by hainzy
Thanks Jim. I was thinking about doing that. Thought it might be better to make sure its just a general tune up it needs rather than anything more sinister...

Also does anyone know what the general wiring plan of attack is? Looking at everything Im finding that the most daunting.. Do i just rip out the whole loom from both cars and try to get the VN one to fit the VH?

Jim's suggestion is spot on, but do yourself a favour & pull & clean the injectors as well. The word 'tune' on a VN V8 has a different meaning than for older cars because there is no idle speed to set or mixture to adjust, the computer does all of that. All you need to do is make sure the the base timing is correct, the filters, plugs, leads & coils are good & the injectors & throttle body are clean.

On the wiring side, the best attack is to do what I've done with my conversions. Leave all of the engine harness (including the battery wiring) attached to the engine. From under the dash, unplug & remove the computer & then push that part of the harness (with the big plugs) back through the firewall grommet . Unplug the rest of the engine harness at each plug. Relocate the battery to the driver's side & fit the air filter box where the battery was fitted. Re-use the VN fusebox & wiring (as much you can anyway) & use bits from the VN harness to connect to your old VH harness, to keep the VN harness intact.

Dr Terry

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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
hainzy Offline
#59 Posted : Saturday, 26 June 2010 2:14:30 AM(UTC)
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Awesome. Thanks Dr terry. I was hoping you would say something practical like that!

So I keep as much of the VN wiring in place as I can, and I guess mark where everything came from that i need to disconnect from the bay. Then do I also take the complete fuse box out from under the dash of both cars, and put the VN one where the VH one was?? is that the general gist??

Cheers.
HK1837 Offline
#60 Posted : Saturday, 26 June 2010 2:24:38 AM(UTC)
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Hainzy

I'll email you a basic how-to. Fuse box is under the bonnet, just behind the battery.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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