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G'day Everyone,
I'm driving a 1972 Holden HQ 1 Tonner with a 308 engine and am experiencing ignition problems I can't get under control.
The car was fine for long, but then the coil and distributor died after a single 500 km trip. Distributor and coil were replaced, distributor was then of electronic type. Held for 500 km until the ignition coil burnt out. I replaced the ignition coil, and after 2 days I had the same thing again. I'm not sure if I blew the coil this time or the dissy - but I can't understand why this is happening.
Could it be one of these resistor cables not being hooked up properly?
Please let me know if you have any comments on this issue.
Stefan |
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If its the Holden blue motor electronic ignition you are using and you are replacing the coil with the rubbish aftermarket ones, the coil is the problem. I got 36k's out of the one I bought. I replaced it with a second hand original bosch one and no more problems.
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Thanks mate - what is a Holden blue motor electronic ignition? Is there an ignition box as you have it with the CDI ignitions? I don't think so but I'm not sure - so there's only a distributor, a battery, a generator and the coil, no ignition unit or anything.
Can a destroyed coil damage an electronic / magnetic distributor? |
"I killed the Bank"
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is the distributor one of those cheap aftermarket ones?
if so look at the ignition module
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Hey BIGCAV,
thanks for your answer - the distributor has an 'electronic unit' - i guess that means some transistors or mosfets instead of points - and was 250$. That's what the workwhop charged me - that's not cheap for me but maybe it isn't the best quality.
Are you talking about the ignition module inside the distributor??
There's no ignition box/unit in this car as far as I know (could be wrong though) as it's not a cdi ignition. |
"I killed the Bank"
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the 100 - 150 dollar distributors (if your mechanic charged 250 inc labor) are renowed for having crap ignition modules  see the part that hangs off the side of the dizzy below the vacuum advance unit, this houses an ignition module  this part can be faulty and stops sending a firing order to your coil. it may not be the problem at all but almost every one of those cheap dizzy's iv seen crap out a module relativly quickly
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Thanks BIGCAV,
I just had a close look at the distributor, what a piece of s*** that unit is. The casting is porous and the shaft has, even though the bloody thing is brand new, at least 0.2 mm radial play. It's a ProComp Electronics 7000 series distributor. The distributor is only about 100 dollars, and therefore significantly less than a Mallory or MSD, but having inspected this thing now I don't think it's worth even 10 dollars. Also, it seems as if the gear is secured with a grub screw, but there is no one in there. If this little grub screw is in the motor now then I'm totally stuffed. Dude what the hell did I do?
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Drop the oil out and hope for the best?
Buy a second hand blue/black motor electronic distributer and coil and you will have no more dramas.
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a good second hand original one for a 6cyl is around $60-80
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I have just decided to spend some money and buy a
- MALLORY 42 SERIES DISTRIBUTOR for HOLDEN 253 - 304 - 308
- Mallory Promaster e Series Ignition Coil # 30441
I hope that those will fix the issue. If I would have known about the bad quality of the ProComp Electronics distributor, I would have refused to put it in. I just talked to the mechanics and they said that the pro billet ProComp series have much nicer housings, but the inside components (that is bearings, electronics, etc.) are pretty much the same (i.e. the same crap). They say these are supposed to be high performance products, but anyone running their equipment on a serious car is just mad.
You get what you pay for, isn't that the saying?
Damn right that is. |
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Not over voltage to the coil (on the LT side) ? |
Attn camry drivers. The accelerator is the skinny pedal on the right. |
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what do you mean? What is LT?
Sorry wbute |
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Sorry, wasn't thinking in current terms. LT is short for Low Tension, ie the 12V going into the coil/dizzy.
Obsolete term these days.
Was thinking of my Granddad,while I posted, it was a term he used to use. |
Attn camry drivers. The accelerator is the skinny pedal on the right. |
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quote:
Originally posted by Holden1Tonner
I have just decided to spend some money and buy a
- MALLORY 42 SERIES DISTRIBUTOR for HOLDEN 253 - 304 - 308
- Mallory Promaster e Series Ignition Coil # 30441
Buy it from the states, way cheaper than local and it will be on your doorstep within 7 days. I saved $500 on an MSD dissy & coil.
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It was the ignition module. Just fixed her back up. I can remember the mechanic saying that he replaced all this s***ty wire in there with proper wire - but somehow seemed to forget that this s***ty wire served as the loom resistor (ignition ballast resistor). So not having an ignition ballast resister blew the coil and then later the ignition module. MAKE SURE YOU DON'T RUN AN ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM WITHOUT AN IGNITION BALLAST RESISTOR. Also nicely explained in the Mallory instructions that came with the distributor. Thanks guys for your help! BIGCAV thank you for the solution. Anyone any idea where to buy a spare ignition module (it looks exactly like the one posted by BIGCAV) Edited by user Monday, 4 July 2011 11:11:42 PM(UTC)
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"I killed the Bank"
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i personally use tridon ignition modules, found them to be great, its the same module used in both ford and holden electronic v8's so you can get them from most auto stores
TIM015 is the part number from memory, will range from $50 bucks (my store) to $80-$90 last time i got one from bursons and repco
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my understanding on the balast resistor was this, feel free to argue as im not certain
with a standard points system they added a balast resistor so the points only saw 9v and didnt burn out as quick, when they went to electronic ignition (genuine bosche atleast) then you could get rid of the resistor and run 12v to the coil as nothing would burn out.
iv heard of some mallory and crane analogue ignition systems still using ballast resistors but the digital versions and msd units dont need a ballast resistor, only what i heard
i would of said that your cheap procomp dizzy shouldnt need a ballast resistor
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the ballast resistor (as installed according to Mallory) is placed in series - between the positive terminal of the coil and the ignition wire - therefore it drops the voltage yes. That's how the gents at Mallory put it. Hope this helps. Edited by user Tuesday, 5 July 2011 1:57:55 AM(UTC)
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They were to lower the the voltage to 9v as bigcav said. When Holden went to electronic ignition they were 12v so no resistor was needed. As for knowing if mallory and procomp are both 12v I have no idea.
I dont understand why people are re-inventing the wheel and making these crap electronic ignitions when Holden had them perfected in 1980 and they are easy to find second hand. The module on the holden ignitions is the same as a lot of other ignitions and are easy to obtain.
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i didn't know that you can retrofit them. I typed into ebay "distributor and coil holden 1972" and got to know about ProComp Electronics (absolute crap), MSD and Mallory.
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"I killed the Bank"
Andrew Jackson, last words |
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