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Holden1Tonner Offline
#21 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 7:56:34 PM(UTC)
Holden1Tonner

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I just located one of those Holden distributors and had a close look at it. Well, it's not a billet housing but I must say that I don't think the 600$ Mallory unit I bought is any better. If anything the Holden unit seems to be more "thought through". There's no axial play in the Holden dissy, whereas the Mallory has more than 2 mm (ProComp crap has about 4(!) after just 500 km). The Holden unit has the ignition module outside and therefore allows for a much larger reluctor. Also the distributor finger on the mallory has about 1 degree play, but sits firmly on the Holden unit. Damn I replaced it already and spend $$$ on the Mallory unit. I should have known this earlier.

Edited by user Tuesday, 5 July 2011 7:57:45 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

"I killed the Bank"
Andrew Jackson, last words
Dr Ric Offline
#22 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 9:46:39 PM(UTC)
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The reason for the resistor in the points system was because they used a 9 volt coil and while cranking, full battery votage was passed through the coil, when the ignition switch returned to run the voltage was reduced to 9 volts via the resistor. The reason was to allow for volt drop while cranking. If you use a 12 volt coil without resistor, while cranking you will only get about 9 volts through the coil making for hard starting particularly when cold.
Holden1Tonner Offline
#23 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 10:18:47 PM(UTC)
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Another bad message. Although everything worked fine for a couple of days, it looks as if things would go wrong again. It starts only after cranking over for 5 rotations. Same as before. So I most likely blew another ignition module. This time the Mallory one which is only 200 dollars. That's great. There must be something else wrong with it. Why am I burning up ignition modules and coils?
"I killed the Bank"
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BIGCAV Offline
#24 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 10:27:46 PM(UTC)
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did it used to fire straight away when you first installed the mallory?
does it run right once started?

id try putting jumper cables direct from the battery and try it again?
Holden1Tonner Offline
#25 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 10:33:12 PM(UTC)
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Yes - I put the timing light on, adjusted the timing and off it went right away, starting better than a new car. I put the ballast resistor off and on but it made no difference. I left the ballast resister in there as suggested by Mallory. Damn this thing gets hot - you can't touch it after 3 min running the engine.

I drove it around yesterday night all over the place, put about 50 km on it. Starting it maybe 20 times. I realized she's getting harder to start at the end. Thought it's the battery. But battery was charged over night. Today in the morning the starting trouble went worse, and I'm sure after a couple more kilometers she won't start anymore at all. Damn! What is wrong here I could hang myself. It just can't be.

If I leave the ballast switch out / bridge it as you said it's the same deal. Doesn't work any better.

Edited by user Tuesday, 5 July 2011 10:34:11 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

"I killed the Bank"
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Dr Terry Offline
#26 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 11:40:00 PM(UTC)
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Put the Mallory coil & distributor in the bin & fit a normal Blue motor Holden/Bosch HEI distributor & coil. Wire them up the factory correct way (no ballast resistor) & you will have none of these dramas.

There are several brands of aftermarket copies of the Blue motor Holden/Bosch dissy that are of good quality & don't give any grief, but I don't believe that ProComp is one of them.

Dr Terry

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BIGCAV Offline
#27 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 11:42:26 PM(UTC)
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no chance the carby was tuned with the old faulty ignition or anything like that?
Holden1Tonner Offline
#28 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 11:46:36 PM(UTC)
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no carby runs fine - tuned just after Mallory was hooked up. I just heard that these electronic distributors/ignition modules are prone to voltage spikes as they occur for worn alternators.
Hm.
"I killed the Bank"
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Holden1Tonner Offline
#29 Posted : Tuesday, 5 July 2011 11:49:49 PM(UTC)
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Dr Terry: I got an original Holden distributor here. Almost brand new. I also got a Bosch coil here, almost brand new. If I put those units in and take the Mallory units out, I will have another 30 km before either the coil or the ignition module will go bust.
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wbute Offline
#30 Posted : Wednesday, 6 July 2011 4:19:40 AM(UTC)
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I agree 100% with Dr Terry. Throw the dissy to the s*** house and put the blue motor HEI unit in with its coil. They dont play up and they are made for the motor.
Holden1Tonner Offline
#31 Posted : Thursday, 7 July 2011 11:45:50 PM(UTC)
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I just got my Mallory active power filter - which may stop blowing the ignition modules.

It says "Made in China" - I thought Mallory was all made in the US??? I think I'm going to take the Mallory stuff out and put the Bosch/Holden distributor and coil in there now.

Thanks again guys for your help,
stefan
"I killed the Bank"
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Holden1Tonner Offline
#32 Posted : Wednesday, 13 July 2011 2:42:27 AM(UTC)
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How much ignition advance?
Engine is out of a commodore vl, 85-86 5.0 litre.
I heard standard for any naturally aspirated engine is 30 and 38 degress.

Asked my mechanic, but he said he doesn't know but can fix it if I bring it in, that means he does know but wants to make some money (after all we're in Canberra where living expenses are higher than in London due to the thousands of public servants being ridiculously overpaid)

Does anyone have any idea?
"I killed the Bank"
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Holden1Tonner Offline
#33 Posted : Wednesday, 13 July 2011 11:04:03 PM(UTC)
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Noone here who could help me out with this question?
"I killed the Bank"
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HT307 Offline
#34 Posted : Wednesday, 13 July 2011 11:26:33 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Holden1Tonner
Noone here who could help me out with this question?


why is your signature so long, it really isn't necessary and is quite annoying
dirty davo Offline
#35 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 6:18:43 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Holden1Tonner
Noone here who could help me out with this question?

follow dr terrys advice & ditch all th crap youve bought & put a blue/black motor bosch electronic unit in, or even an old points dissy. you wont have any more dramas
Holden1Tonner Offline
#36 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 8:33:03 PM(UTC)
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still need to know the ignition advance.
can't find this info anywhere
"I killed the Bank"
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BIGCAV Offline
#37 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 9:04:04 PM(UTC)
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if you want to know total advance youd need to supply all your motor specs etc, its not something people really want to guess at

also your mechanic may be doing it by feel too, modified the advance bit by bit untill its perfect etc, not something he can just say over the phone

buy why are you that interested at the moment anyway?

personally id just be sticking it in a static advance of 10 or whatever is recommended and adjusting the static advance by feel/driving

again im into fords so i dont know my holdens that well for these kind of things but with ford the static advance recomendation is on the emmisions decal
Holden1Tonner Offline
#38 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 9:34:47 PM(UTC)
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got the Bosch distributor and the coil as well as a Mallory distributor and coil and every combination works, as long as the total coil resistance is 1.5 Ohms. I put the ProComp crap on my shelf (it looks nice, that's about the only thing). When the mechanic changed from points to electronic he used a coil with only 0.5 Ohms and no ballast resistor. That burned 2 coils and an ignition module. Seems all fine now.

I'm running as much advance as possible, without getting any pinging under full load, but I have no idea how much that is. The issue is that with this configuration, she needs to be cranked over at least 3 revolutions to start. If I decrease the advance she starts right away but I don't feel that I've got the same power / efficiency. I want to log this properly and therefore I need to know the exact timing.



"I killed the Bank"
Andrew Jackson, last words
HT307 Offline
#39 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 9:42:41 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Holden1Tonner
and therefore I need to know the exact timing.



There's no such thing. Factory timing specs are just an overall average with a safety factor. Exact timing will depend on individual engine and will vary with many factors such as wear, components, tolerances, fuel quality, etc. The factory timing figures also used different fuel to what you have now. Timing is part of the "tuning" process,it's not a God number.
Holden1Tonner Offline
#40 Posted : Thursday, 14 July 2011 9:44:19 PM(UTC)
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so what would be the approximate factory number then? 10 degrees or 30 degrees?

Edited by user Thursday, 14 July 2011 9:45:50 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

"I killed the Bank"
Andrew Jackson, last words
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