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Advice required from any painters out there. What would you recommend for sealing/undercoating a body after sandblasting?
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Epotec 408 Epoxy primer. Sold by Protec
It is used on many restorations, and is able to have small amounts of body filler applied over the top of it. In fact body filler sticks better to a prepared epoxy surface than it does to bare steel. It is also sealed properly against moisture contamination. |
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quote:
Originally posted by peter_flane
Sold by Protec
Protec is the cheap stuff, if you want something that lasts you should probably use something of higher quality.
quote:
Originally posted by peter_flane
In fact body filler sticks better to a prepared epoxy surface than it does to bare steel.
That's pretty much rubbish. There was a movement in the early 2000's espousing this method but it has pretty much been discredited by both painters and manufacturers alike. Bog (unsaturated polyester) sticks better to a properly activated bare steel surface than it will ever stick to paint, and is far more likely to delaminate from paint than it ever will from properly prepared (activated) steel. You should steer clear of any panel shop applying bog to paint, the excess hardener (peroxide) in the bog will migrate to the outer layers of bog and have nothing to react with so just forms a 'grease' layer. After that your paint will eventually bubble and fall off.
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i agree with peter, epoxy prime first
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as with anything of this nature follow manufactures instructions . when you get your car sandblasted they should apply some form of protective film over the bare metal if you want to further protect then you can either use an epoxy primer or a light coat of etch primer . i dont agree with mr bob that protec is cheap stuff its only as good as the person applying it to the car preparation is the key to all good paint jobs etc
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Rank: Veteran
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quote:
Originally posted by peter_flane
Epotec 408 Epoxy primer. Sold by Protec
It is used on many restorations, and is able to have small amounts of body filler applied over the top of it. In fact body filler sticks better to a prepared epoxy surface than it does to bare steel. It is also sealed properly against moisture contamination.
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I have used Protec's Epotec 408 Epoxy prime on 2 of my car rebuilds with great results.
Plus it smells good!
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Forum Rank:: Member
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If you are going to sandblast do not do the turret bonnet or boot
It will stretch around the inner frames
Once blasted must be metal prepped. This step involves acid & water and plenty of scouring, Once this is done only touch the bare metal with rubber gloves. No bare hands
Then you can epoxy prime
I have used protec before as it was the only one that comes in black
It was ok but I wont use it again. Also I used their black primer filler
This stuff is dries hard and the top film balls up crap!
As said preparation is the key
Chris
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Regarding the application of body filler over 2pack epoxy primed steel body panels,Marque Restoration in Adelaide
are arguably one of the best coach builders in Australia and they always prime with EPOTEC then apply { small amounts] filler, as per instructions from the filler manufacturer.
We are talking about $ 150k resto work on early Astin Martins and Ferrari,s etc
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the body once its stripped must be etch primed but i agree with bob about the metal thing normally the areas needing repair are brought back to metal repaired then re-primed .only small amounts of 2pak quick stop should be used on top of the primer that's even last resort stuff.thats how my beater goes about it as he runs the metal file over the panel which gives him a guide to were the ripples and dents are which in turn removes the primer or etch .but were all not the same |
why drink & drive when you can drift & slide |
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