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THE EH
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the eh Offline
#21 Posted : Wednesday, 5 October 2011 1:35:21 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Bruvpig
Hi Scott, that is going to be a sweet ride indeed, hope you keep hold of it forever.
What are the specs on the front brakes? is that an adaptor plate on the caliper mount?
Cheers
Brian

Thanks Brian,
The front hubs are universal aftermarket hubs I bought from Race Brakes in Sydney. I then had them drill with 10 holes on a 4-3/4" PCD pattern. This gave me 5 holes for wheels studs and 5 for mounting the rotor. The rotors are DBA 4000 series originally for a C6 Z06 Corvette. They measure 355mm diameter by 32mm thick. The rotor is mounted to the hub with a machined aluminium spacer that was setup to give me clearance between the caliper and rim. The wheels are only 17" diameter and all the "experts" tell you you can't fit this size rotor and caliper in a 17" wheel. I proved you can.
The caliper is from the same Corvette and is a monblock 6 piston PBR unit. They're different in that they run 6 individual pads per caliper. This means there are no leading and trailing piston size differences as tapered wear on the pads is not an issue. Now PBR can use the same caliper on both sides of the car. One casting to do all applications. CLEVER.
Yes there is a spacer holding the caliper on. The CRS stubs are machined for a standard Commodore caliper whereas the Corvette units are like the HSV caliper with regards mounting bolt spacing. It's just a simple flat steel plate with some machine steel spacers to get the alignment correct..
Here's a pic of the bracket.



Here's a pic of the caliper. They're huge


Here's the pads

Edited by user Wednesday, 5 October 2011 1:43:20 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#22 Posted : Friday, 7 October 2011 9:40:46 PM(UTC)
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This is the motor I originally intended for the EH. It will be now used in a HZ One Tonner project I have.
Here's the details
This is a QT engine that is now 0.030" over size and running a std/std stock Holden crank and serviced early rods with x-ray checked Holden 11/32" rod bolts. All critical bolts are new. Pistons are ACL Duralites with Sealed Power chrome rings. Cam is a Crow 41550 and lifters are Sealed Power antipump up. Top end is a pair of serviced VN cast heads with Yella Terra bolt on adjustable roller rockers. Pushrods are hardened Sealed Powers. Timing kit and high volume oil pump are JP items. The inlet manifold is a Torque Power high rise dual plane with a Holley 9900-171 1000cfm throttle body that includes inbuilt nitrous nozzles. Injectors are 931 Bosch supplied fuel through stock but modified Holden rails and regulated by a Powerflow adjustable billet pressure regulator. I have used a V6 Commodore power steering pump and plastic reservoir. It's currently wired and plumbed for a VR PCM so I will match it to a 4L60E auto.
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the eh Offline
#23 Posted : Saturday, 8 October 2011 2:10:28 AM(UTC)
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Closeup of the Holley 9900-171 throttle body clearly showing the 8 nitrous nozzles on the underside.


WOT switch needed for the nitrous system on the spare 308. I just machined a simple bracket that holds the microswitch in place on the solenoid mounting plate.
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the eh Offline
#24 Posted : Friday, 14 October 2011 7:28:50 PM(UTC)
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This is the 308 stroker that is currently fitted.
The final specs are 4 bolt block bored to 30 thou and fitted with SRP 12cc dish forged pistons on balanced late Holden rods all connected to a 3.48" stroke Scat crank. Cam is a Camtech CT2248-49901B-110 hydraulic roller cam with speedpro lifters and original Holden lifter retainer. Heads are Yella Terra dash9 alloys machined to give a 55cc chamber and 10.5:1 compression ratio. Valve collets were changed to suit the roller cam and coil bind occurs at 700 thou lift. This cam only produces 587 thou so plenty of margin there. The cam was installed 2 degrees retarded using a JP timing set. A High Energy HQ style oil pan is used with an SRA oil pickup and standard volume JP oil pump.
Picked up a block that has been converted to 4 bolt main caps. Bore is still standard and all machining has been done. I'll transfer the heads and inlet from my other motor and get this one built as a 350ci. Target is 450HP N/A, 600HP with nitrous.




Yella Terra ABHA5000-9 Alloy heads and YT6313 Roller rockers will be used on the top end. Saves about 15kg in weight and out of the box they flow more air than I will need so no extra cost for headwork.


engine oil breather tank tacked up and mounted to head for final welding


Scat 3.48" stroke crank, resized late Holden rods fitted with ARP bolts and SRP forged pistons all installed and awaiting the roller cam to complete the short motor






Aeromotive fuel pressure reg is smaller than the powerflow unit it replaces, allowing more room around the distributor





4L60E transmission with B&M Holeshot 2000 converter assembled and detailed. Ready to bolt up to the engine.


Lower alternator mount is not used. The alternator pushes up against the block onto the black acetal bumper mounted to the timing cover where the fuel pump usually mounts. The belt is tensioned by the idler pulley

Edited by user Friday, 14 October 2011 7:32:53 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#25 Posted : Monday, 24 October 2011 5:36:54 AM(UTC)
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Latest pics.
I finally finished the Nitrous system fabrication, sent the modified inlet manifold out to be Competition Coated and then fitted it all back on with the new air filters I made. Here are the pics

Nitrous distibution block and throttle linkage mount final assembly complete and ready for installation.


Intake manifold is back from Competition Coatings with it's new glossy coating.



One bank of throttle bodies refitted. This involved a huge amount of polishing and also finessing of all the nitrous plumbing.



The air filter bases are fitted. A black acetal insert is used to seal the base around each trumpet. These inserts are retained and sealed to the trumpet with pieces of air filter foam cut from a pod type air filter element.


Each pair of acetal inserts is retained by the air filter top retaining post. The post has a large captive washer that forces the inserts down into place. The foam inserts are seen fitted around the trumpets.


I purchased a pair of side draught Webber pod filters and cut each one into 4 rings. These rings seal my air filter bases to the intake trumpets.


Everything finished except for the purge line plumbing and the electrical wiring of the solenoids. I'm worried about the overall height of the setup now and may have to lower the air filters by shortening the mounts. This is easily done.




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the eh Offline
#26 Posted : Sunday, 30 October 2011 12:42:31 AM(UTC)
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The button head stainless bolts that were holding the throttle bodies in place needed to be replaced with longer ones due to the extra 22mm added in the nitrous nozzle plates and the air filter mounts. No longer ones were available so I used stainless all thread and installed this as studs into the manifold. This left a length of thread sticking out from the top of each assembly. I machined up these aluminium nuts to neaten everything up.


Close up shot of the nitrous nozzle, solenoid plumbing and pressure relief valve.



Nitrous install finally plumbed, polished, brushed, wired and tested.


Latest Ebay purchase. A fabricated aluminium cover for the Commodore relay and fuse panel. I have been watching them for a while and finally one came up at a reasonable price..It still needs to be brush finished.

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the eh Offline
#27 Posted : Sunday, 30 October 2011 10:40:00 PM(UTC)
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Latest Ebay purchase. A fabricated aluminium cover for the Commodore relay and fuse panel. I have been watching them for a while and finally one came up at a reasonable price..It still needs to be brush finished.
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the eh Offline
#28 Posted : Sunday, 6 November 2011 7:37:38 AM(UTC)
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Bloody oil leaks
After finally getting the inlet manifold on the motor last weekend I was thinking all was done. NOT SO. I started the car up this weekend and the inlet manifold was leaking oil at the rear. It was pouring out. I followed the trend of not using the front and rear cork gaskets and simply using a bead of silicone. I purchased a tube of THREE BOND 1215 which is what my engine builder uses and recommends. It's bloody good stuff and sticks like sh1t to a blanket. My mistake was not putting a big enough bead onto the block. Once the manifold was in place the bead needed to fill a gap of about 6mm. It looked OK at the front so I though all was good at the rear also. Apparently not. This time around I am using the original cork gaskets which have already been "glued" in place

Edited by user Sunday, 6 November 2011 7:40:48 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#29 Posted : Thursday, 10 November 2011 7:55:51 AM(UTC)
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Back together yet again. No leaks so far, fingers crossed..



Billet aluminium cover fitted to bonnet catch. This keeps things neat at shows when the bonnet is opened.
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Bowtie383 Offline
#30 Posted : Thursday, 17 November 2011 10:35:38 PM(UTC)
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I have to compliment you on the EH mate that is one very nice car,just a question what is the name of the grey you used on it as it compliments the body line of the car.

Regards Tony.
What goes around comes around
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the eh Offline
#31 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2011 1:58:45 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Tony
The colour is called PEPPER GREY METALLIC. It's a Ford commercial/fleet colour and was used on the Elanour Mustangs in "Gone in 60 seconds". The code is 44490.
quote:
Originally posted by Bowtie383
I have to compliment you on the EH mate that is one very nice car,just a question what is the name of the grey you used on it as it compliments the body line of the car.

Regards Tony.
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Bowtie383 Offline
#32 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2011 7:15:36 AM(UTC)
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My pleasure mate and thanks for the code,just one more thing did you use PPG.

Regards Tony.
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the eh Offline
#33 Posted : Friday, 18 November 2011 8:29:01 AM(UTC)
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No not PPG. I am sitting here racking my brain trying to think of the brand. My car was the first car painted by the painter in this brand. It's not the common names like PPG, DuPont, Dulux etc but I do remember them saying the brand was owned by one of the big guys. I'll swing paste the painters over the next few days and refresh my memory.
quote:
Originally posted by Bowtie383
My pleasure mate and thanks for the code,just one more thing did you use PPG.

Regards Tony.

Edited by user Friday, 18 November 2011 8:30:14 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Bowtie383 Offline
#34 Posted : Saturday, 19 November 2011 7:47:41 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for that mate.

Regards Tony.
What goes around comes around
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the eh Offline
#35 Posted : Saturday, 26 November 2011 7:15:21 AM(UTC)
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All back together and ready for some action.
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the eh Offline
#36 Posted : Monday, 28 November 2011 5:54:13 AM(UTC)
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Here's a look at the electricals of the car. It's essential a complete new system from a VR Calais. I bought new harnesses, TDM, PCM and BCM. I also needed to by the remote module that is used to run the steering wheel audio controls.


Drivers door courtesy switch installed along with a VZ door wiring harness conduit. This style of conduit is on all 4 doors.


Drivers side rear door conduit fitted.


On the right of the picture is the drivers side rear door. I mounted a Commodore door jamb switch in the door as there was no room in the pillar. It needed a bit of fiddling but now works perfectly.


Closeup of drivers door central locking motor and the simple mounting.


Billet stop light trial fitted for height mainly. It will sit too low once the window is installed. I will add some height to the parcel shelf to fix this problem.


I couldn't get the horn to work even though all the wiring was correct. I hadn't fitted the black control unit seen in the middle of the picture. This is the steering wheel remote controls control module. I didn't think I needed to fit it as I'm not using the steering wheel audio controls factory fitted to the Calais and Statesman. Without it though the horn will not work.


All the wiring in place under the dash. This will be behind the console once it's fitted. The black box on top of the PCM is a unit that operates the reverse lights from just a 10ma source used to illuminate the gear shifter display LED's


Some time was spent cleaning up the console wiring, fitting the boot to the shifter to seal it to the floor and installing the power window and front speaker harnesses.


Final wiring job was to place all the instrument, switch and control unit wiring into its final spots. There is a lot of wiring under the console as most switches live in the console. Wiring is needed in the console for the cruise control actuator, headlight switch, hazard light switch, electric window switches, trip computer control, hazard light switch, security LED, power/economy switch and the led gear shift indicator. It's a busy place but now its all in place and working.


Under bonnet electrics in and complete. Genuine Holden covers to keep it all neat


Wiring in and everything that has been tested so far is working. So it should as its a brand new Holden harness and computers.




A mass of wiring lives behind the grille to keep everything out of sight.


Firewall grommet installed and sealed with silicone for a water and fume tight seal.


Main harness under the drivers guard now installed an cable tied up to the steel frame that I made to keep the harness away from the wheel and suspension.


Underdash frame with PCM, TDM and BCM fitted. AC unit also fits to this frame in place of the original glove box.


Interior showing dash frame and pedals now fitted. Cruise control unit mounted on transmission tunnel will be inside console when its fitted.


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Bowtie383 Offline
#37 Posted : Wednesday, 30 November 2011 4:04:32 AM(UTC)
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I have to admire all the work you have put into the EH mate.

Regards Tony.
What goes around comes around
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the eh Offline
#38 Posted : Wednesday, 30 November 2011 4:33:37 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for that. I love the challenge of building and designing and the EH has been to grandest project so far. I recently purchased a HZ One tonner with the intention of carrying out a quick slap together rebuild. Now as time goes on I look at it and start wondering what I can do to it to make it different to all those already out there. Time will see I suppose..
quote:
Originally posted by Bowtie383
I have to admire all the work you have put into the EH mate.

Regards Tony.
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the eh Offline
#39 Posted : Thursday, 1 December 2011 7:13:30 AM(UTC)
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Dakota Digital gauges mounted in a billet aluminium housing. I made the housing with a 1/4" unc mounting thread. This means it will be removable. I will mount it to the windscreen witha GPS style suction mount. This way it can be easily hidden when not being driven. The wiring connector will be hidden in the now defunct ash tray.


The 3mm white LED can be seen in the mounting bracket between the two gauges. This LED is connected to the PCM and will let me know if the nitrous system is armed by glowing GREEN and then when the system is actually engaged and flowing nitrous it will glow RED. See the pics below.


Green LED means the nitrous system is armed.


Red LED means the nitrous system is engaged.


Each guage mounts using its original mounting brackets. Each of the 3 pods are joined by a simple machined base. This base has been machined out to allow the wiring to pass between gauges so they are not seen. The only wiring that will be seen is the single harness passing out of the base to connect the unit to the car.


Gauges finished. Nylon braided sleeve added and the Deutsch connector housing fitted. A matching connector sits under the passenger side of the dash and allows quick positive connection if the gauges. All that is needed now is a mount for the gauges. This will probably on top of the dash in a similar position to the original style EH accesory gauge pod.
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the eh Offline
#40 Posted : Friday, 2 December 2011 5:36:03 AM(UTC)
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I found out today that the paint is DeBeers. This is their website http://debeer.com.au/
quote:
Originally posted by Bowtie383
Thanks for that mate.

Regards Tony.
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