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THE EH
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the eh Offline
#41 Posted : Friday, 2 December 2011 6:12:14 AM(UTC)
the eh

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Sound System

All Blaupunkt consisting of Bremen MP3 head unit mounted under the drivers seat, 10 stack CD player under the passenger seat, 5-1/4" splits in the front doors, 5-1/4" splits in the rear parcel shelf with the tweeters placed high up in the C pillar behind the hoodlining, and 6x9" 4 ways in the parcel shelf. I have also made a removable sub woofer box housing 2 x 12" Subwoofers, I have decided not to use this as the bass from the woofer within the 6x9" is quite impressive. In the boot floor there are 3 x 4 channel amps with 1440 watts RMS total output.

Blaupunkt head unit mounted under the drivers seat, being viewed from behind. The unit pivots on the right/outer front corner so that it faces outside the car. This gives access to the faceplate and all its controls.








Battery installed with Amp power distribution/fuse block, Anderson plug in case of the need for a jump start. Also in this area is an inbuilt battery charger. Main battery cable is 00 gauge so should not suffer any significant voltage drop.








The small copper wire sticking out of the rear screen rubber is the radio antenna. When we were fitting the rear screen we ran a wire around the glass before it was fitted to the rubber. A small hole in the rubber allows it to exit. This will be hidden by the pillar used to mount the high level brake light. This wire will connect to a small amplifier unit that then connects to the radio through the normal antenna connection.










Edited by user Friday, 2 December 2011 6:13:54 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#42 Posted : Thursday, 15 December 2011 5:32:16 PM(UTC)
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FINALLY, got the air filters polished and refitted. The clearance between the bonnet and the front edge of the filters is as little as 8mm. I'm hoping this is enough. I can lower the filters by simply machining the mounting posts shorter. however this brings the top cover closer to the intake trumpets and may become restrictive. If I can avoid this is will do so.

Edited by user Thursday, 15 December 2011 5:33:56 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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anton Offline
#43 Posted : Friday, 16 December 2011 10:20:32 PM(UTC)
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nice work mate. plenty of thought and planning gone into it. well done
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the eh Offline
#44 Posted : Tuesday, 20 December 2011 7:50:20 AM(UTC)
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Whenever you refit front subframes it's a pain trying to align the inner mounting bolts. I made this tapered extension that screws to the subframe bolt and helps guide it into place.


CRS Chassis kit with a few modifications to make it a bit neater. It fits perfectly straight from CRS. This is more than I can say for some of the pieces I have purchased from other so called specialists. No names mentioned publically.

Complete modified under dash A/C and heater ready to mount. The front panel has been removed and a fibreglass plenum fabricated that directs all the air sideway toward the centre of the car. This unit mounts where the original glovebox is.

Edited by user Tuesday, 20 December 2011 7:51:00 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#45 Posted : Saturday, 24 December 2011 6:38:27 AM(UTC)
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I made these subframe bolt covers a while back before they were readily available. The ones you buy now are held in place with silicone or the like. Mine are fully machined, sealed and retianed by internal O rings. To remove them there is no levering them off against your fresh paint. You go underneath with the air line and direct the compressed air up through a hole drilled througn the subframe mounting bolts. This pops the covers off cleanly with no risk of damage.
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greenhj Offline
#46 Posted : Saturday, 24 December 2011 6:58:18 AM(UTC)
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damn!

im loving this build.

can you tell me more about the alternator setup? I am trying to find space in the same spot yours is mounted (hot pipes meant it had to leave the factory position) but i have a steering box in the way, it fits but not quite and will be worse with some hp and lots of torque trying to smash it against the steering box.

Your method of mounting to the fuel blockoff plate might just give me the clearance i need and if you care to share some info/measurements etc id appreciate it

cheers
phill
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the eh Offline
#47 Posted : Saturday, 24 December 2011 7:15:05 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Phil. The alternator uses the main foot mount but not the smaller adjuster foot. To retain the strength that the smaller foot usually adds to the mounting I placed the alternator hard up against the plate bolted to the fuel pump mounting holes. This place has an acetal plastic bumper there to absorb load. The belt is tensioned by an idler pulley mounted to the main mounting bracket



Timing cover with fuel pump blockoff/lower alternator mount and stainless bolts ready for installation. Cover has been modified as seen in an earlier picture


Acetal bumper added to the fuel pump block off. This allows the alternator to seat up to it and not be damaged. This is needed as I am not running an adjuster on the alternator.









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1963eh Offline
#48 Posted : Tuesday, 27 December 2011 5:11:52 AM(UTC)
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WOW,this car will see many a trophy on your shelves,great work excellent car.
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the eh Offline
#49 Posted : Tuesday, 27 December 2011 5:22:32 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for that, this car has been with me for many many years and building it has been my stress reliever and rehabilitation at times. I have enjoyed it and other EH's since the early 80's. I love EH's...
quote:
Originally posted by 1963eh
WOW,this car will see many a trophy on your shelves,great work excellent car.
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greenhj Offline
#50 Posted : Tuesday, 27 December 2011 6:15:19 PM(UTC)
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thanks for the alternator details mate, is the alternator a standard HV8 size?
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the eh Offline
#51 Posted : Tuesday, 27 December 2011 8:23:25 PM(UTC)
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The alternator is a standard VN on V8 85amp Bosch unit. I needed to linish the casing in one spot for clearance. Nothing major though. I also needed to remove a part of the block casting. There is a "tab" sticking out of the block down on the pan rail. This was used to locate the block accurately when Holden initially machined it. It is not used as a reference by an engine reconditioner so removing it is not a problem. If you need more info send me an email to myehholden at exemail dot com dot au.

quote:
Originally posted by greenhj
thanks for the alternator details mate, is the alternator a standard HV8 size?
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greenhj Offline
#52 Posted : Tuesday, 27 December 2011 11:42:52 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by the eh
The alternator is a standard VN on V8 85amp Bosch unit. I needed to linish the casing in one spot for clearance. Nothing major though. I also needed to remove a part of the block casting. There is a "tab" sticking out of the block down on the pan rail. This was used to locate the block accurately when Holden initially machined it. It is not used as a reference by an engine reconditioner so removing it is not a problem. If you need more info send me an email to myehholden at exemail dot com dot au.

quote:
Originally posted by greenhj
thanks for the alternator details mate, is the alternator a standard HV8 size?


thanks mate, ive waved the grinder near that locating lug a few times but never got around to cutting it off so you answered another question too lol.

Ill have a play once i get the block back in teh car to check for clearance to steering box.

ill email if i have more queries.

cheers
phill
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the eh Offline
#53 Posted : Wednesday, 28 December 2011 2:16:48 AM(UTC)
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I will take a pic or two of the lug and what's left of it after I cut it off. My 308 that's shown further up has also had this done. I'll take some pics of that motor and put them up.
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the eh Offline
#54 Posted : Wednesday, 28 December 2011 3:42:00 AM(UTC)
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Here's the pics. Compare them to your block and you will see where the lug used to be.

quote:
Originally posted by the eh
I will take a pic or two of the lug and what's left of it after I cut it off. My 308 that's shown further up has also had this done. I'll take some pics of that motor and put them up.
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greenhj Offline
#55 Posted : Wednesday, 28 December 2011 5:26:35 AM(UTC)
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nice, i had a quick play on the floor and it looks like it will be awful close to fitting where i want it, worst case ill put some "travel limiters" on the block to stop the mounts moving too far and putting the alt into the steering box.

I cant use an engine plate or id just fix the whole lot solid and stop thinking about it lol.

I appreciate the info!

cheers
phill
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the eh Offline
#56 Posted : Sunday, 1 January 2012 9:17:05 PM(UTC)
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I have always been worried about damage to the front stone tray of the EH if it broke down and needed to be towed or winched onto a tilt tray. I don't see a lot of care ever given to being gentle and avoiding damage to the car. I designed and manufactured this removable tow hook that allows the winch cable to be connected low down relative to the stone tray and avoid the cable rubbing on the stone tray and damaging it. This hook attaches under the front crossmember.
This is the template made from 1.6mm aluminium fitted to ensure it fits and serves the purpose I made it for


These are pics of the actual hook being made. The main body is 20mm aluminium and the hook section is 10mm aluminium. It has had an initial sand and polish before being assembled. It will now be final sanded and polished then it's ready for use.








Edited by user Sunday, 1 January 2012 9:19:02 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#57 Posted : Sunday, 1 January 2012 9:38:44 PM(UTC)
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Tow hook fitted to the car to show how it works
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the eh Offline
#58 Posted : Tuesday, 3 January 2012 2:59:31 AM(UTC)
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Finally got around to making the boot drawer insert. Things like the bonnet prop, trans dipstick, AN spanners and various other things are stored here. I have a lot of space still so I will find a few other things to store here.


Edited by user Tuesday, 3 January 2012 3:04:53 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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the eh Offline
#59 Posted : Wednesday, 4 January 2012 6:18:05 PM(UTC)
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the eh Offline
#60 Posted : Thursday, 5 January 2012 3:13:18 AM(UTC)
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This is the HZ One tonner I am about to start rebuilding and modifying. It will use the throttle body EFI with nitrous 308 shown on page 2. I will probably use a 4L60E but I would love to fit a 6 speed manual. Depends on the finance department. Brakes will be left over from the EH build. This will be 343mm HSV fronts with Tickford calipers and 326mm Territor/BF rears with VT Front sheetmetal is HZ Premier.
This will be a budget build so it's path is not set and will depend on what I can get hold of.

Here's some pics.




Rear stabiliser bar link brackets look original. I guess this model had a rear bar fitted at the factory


GM9 diff code means 4.44:1 Salisbury. It will get a cleanup and repaint. New leaf springs and bushes will be added.


Rear spring saddle welding looks dodgy. I am thinking the diff is not the original one tonner diff but a sedan or wagon unit modified. Uni joint yoke is definitely 1-1/8" though which is one tonner.


Diff yoke is definitely 1-1/8" which is the original one tonner size.


Cabin rear sheet metal has been modified. I like it.



Edited by user Thursday, 5 January 2012 3:15:54 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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