New years project. This is a engine stand that will allow me to start and run an engine with or without a transmission. It has locations for a fuel bottle and battery as well as a removable radiator mount. There will also be a simple wiring harness with ignition, start, oil light and temp gauge. I'll also try to squeeze in a muffler or two if possible.





I dug out the control box I used with THE EH before it was wired. This contains a main ignition switch and lamp, A VDO water temp gauge, a low oil pressure lamp, a start button and also a thermo fan switch.


Also found a left over tacho, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure gauge. I'll mount this on the frame also to help keep an eye on things.


Transmission mount made but not final welded.


38mm Denso style EFI pump fitted to the frame. This will be gravity fed from the fuel can.

Edited by user Tuesday, 31 December 2013 6:12:12 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Initial fitting of the engine and trans. This allowed me to determine the trans mount height. It was then welded off..






Drivers side pipes are very short to give clearance around the steering rack in the Commodore. This is no good for my so the collector will be lengthened and modified to turn the collector to a more usable angle.









Passenger side was more fiddly as the headers are longeron this side and I also needed to make this side match the other side. However it was still reasonably straight forward.



Completed, O2 sensor now is positioned in the front sensor position in the engine pipe. Apparently the original Commodore position in the header will cause the sensor to foul on the tunnel.




Engine pipes complete. I gave up trying to make them to also suit the one tonner when I'm finished here. I'll just redo a set for the car once the engine is in.

after seeing your build and the obvious work you put into the most minor of details, the injector blockoffs seem a tad low tech :D

Dashboard for the engine stand will be this a;uminium box. It will house the switches, relays and gauges needed to keep the engine running sweetly.




To run the motor on the stand with a carby I needed a stand alone electronic dissy. Luckily I sell them so getting one was no problem. A bit of cam lube on the gear and a few squirts of oil in the oiling hole and around the end of the shaft will ensure there is no dry startup.



Aftermarket aluminium dissy clamp needed a slight radius ground into it to clear the Torque Power inlet manifold.


All the engine wiring is complete. Once I'm sure it's all ok I will cable tie everything together and terminate all the cables at a pair of 6 pin connectors.



Oil pressure sender and oil pressure switch fitted to the oil pump using an adaptor I had left over from the EH build.


BA alternator mounts differently to the Holden style. However I was able to mount on on a standard Holden mount and a simple adjuster will help tension the belt. This is only for use on the engine stand.


600 squarebore Holley was cheaper NEW than a second hand reco unit. Go the Aussie dollar..

Control box complete




10 litre fuel cell fitted and plumbed to both high and low pressure pumps.



Radiator was positioned so that the standard HZ hoses can be used.




Exhaust fitted and only needing muffler supports. These will brace back to the gearbox mount keeping everthing above the mounts so it all moves together.

Whilst looking at ignition leads I came across a problem with the EH leads. Number 3 had melted through the boot and was arcing on the exhaust.



I searched the internet and came up with this product as the best/easiest solution.


Here's the results

Edited by user Wednesday, 3 April 2013 4:44:24 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

quote:

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Originally posted by ehwa
bloody nice job on the eh, looks fantastic you be should be very happy with how it turned out, just a quick question what steering column did u use cheers mate

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Thanks,

The steering column tube is a HQ lower section joined to a VS Commodore upper section. The shaft is a VS Commodore upper with a HQ intermediate section and a Torana lower section. All 3 use the same shaft dimensions which allows the sections to simply slide together. Once assembled I drilled them and used an aluminium shear pin to hold the sections together. This allows the column to remain collapsible.

quote:

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Originally posted by greenhj
when are you hooking up a water brake and some strain gauges to the engine run in stand? :D

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Not quite. I don't think I would even bother to put this engine on a dyno. It's a mild setup probably only putting out 350HP max. It would probably not even register on the dyno..

One front wheel was not sitting on the hub flush. Turns out 2 of the countersunk rotor mounting bolts were sitting proud. A quick linish and a repaint and it's fixed.


Finally fitted the repro 1964 rego label..


Thought I would try out the new (to me) mill by slotting some slotted rotors I had left over from the EH build. These are 343mm HSV rotors with 8 slots. I added another 16. It was a learning experience. All I need to do now is the other side and the complete other rotor.



Bonnet clearance is about 8-10mm betweenthe air filters and bonnet. You wouldn't think so looking at the filters in this shot

Thanks Keith, I like to tinker in the shed and some times things work and some times they don't. I don't post the failures however. Haha..