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Rank: Member
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Joined: 28/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 514
Thanks: 3 times Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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Whilst the boot trim panels are out I added the battery master switch that I had never gotten around to fitting. This will sit in behind the arm rest in the rear seat. It's a modified Bosch unit rated at 250amp continuous and 2500amp starting (5 seconds). I placed it in the earth circuit to make fitting easy and safer. I also upgrade the earth cable from 3 gauge (previously it was only 250mm long) to 0 gauge as it is now over 2 metres long.
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EJ and EH wiper motor conversion under way. My previous versions have been one offs however I now plan to sell a few so I'm making up a set of jigs to speed the process up. I used a spare firewall and some centreing pins to find all the relevant measurements. Edited by user Sunday, 23 June 2013 6:51:46 AM(UTC)
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Drivers side boot trim finally getting the battery master switch housing permanently mounted in it. This is the housing that holds it all together. Once the trim is on a machined trim ring neatens it all and matches the nitrous connector in the passenger side panel. Trim panel reinstalled to check alignment. All good so it's back to the trimmers for retrimming. Main boot panel has had a 3mm MDF skin glued to it to allow me to regap it. I was never happy with the way it fitted so this should solve any issues that existed.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 28/08/2011(UTC) Posts: 514
Thanks: 3 times Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Rank: Member
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I didn't like the look of the black 10lb Nitrous bottle so I decided to strip it, polish then brush finish it. Well Stripping alone took 3hours. The paint was too thick to sandblast off. Then if I tried to sand it aggressivley it would melt and clog the sander. So it was slow and steady with the DA sander then into the sand blast cabinet. Now it just needs polishing and brushing Ever wondered what hi tech wizardry is engineered into the pickup tube of a Nitrous bottle. Well here it is. 3/8" annealed copper connected to a brass compression fitting. Edited by user Monday, 15 July 2013 3:00:01 AM(UTC)
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Rank: Member
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Rank: Member
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After a great and successful Golden Anniversary show on Sunday I had an eventful drive home. The EH developed a rattle in the motor that became chronic just as I arrived home. I was not sure what it was, all I could tell is that it was somewhere in the bottom end. I snapped this picture this morning which I think answers my noise question. There are some unwelcome dents in the transmission cover that I am sure have been caused by one of the torque converter bolts coming loose. I think I need to sack my mechanic (me). I will get it pulled apart on the weekend an hopefully it's only a new bolt with a nice application of Loctite and it's all fixed. Edited by user Saturday, 31 August 2013 6:56:11 AM(UTC)
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This weekend I put an end to my loose converter bolts.
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Torque Converter bolts replaced and now working perfectly. OK, new bolts fitted everything back together, give the Loctite a chance to cure, had lunch, life is good. Start the car and WTF the noise is still there. I can't believe it. As I turn the engine off there is a brief metallic noise that I heard twice whilst driving home from the Silverwater show. I had a very long and hard look for my third missing converter bolt before things went back together. I used the camera pictured below to get in and around the converter, into the starter drive housing, look on top of the webbing on the block. NO BOLT to be found. Where was the third bolt? I was left with no choice but pull it down again. So instead of ripping the exhaust off again I thought I would undo the inspection cover and get the camera in to have a look. Guess what I found MY THIRD MISSING BOLT. Got the bolt out with the magnetic pickup tool and refitted the cover. Start it up and HAPPY DAYS. What a day.
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Here it is. Finished prototype Commodore wiper motor into EJ-EH. I'm open for comments/suggestions/discussion from anyone. All that's missing from the pic is one 3/16" bolt that will be needed to mount the adaptor plate to the cowl. I still need to create an instruction sheet also. Should be done in a couple of weeks.
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did you make the header plates? Edited by user Monday, 16 September 2013 11:23:04 PM(UTC)
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No, I purchased them from Liverpool exhausts. They are VL/VN GPA plates hence the round ports. These are for 1-3/4" pipes. I am going to cut them into individual pieces so I will end up with 8 seperate plates. This is the only way I can get a tuned length setup and still be able to remove them without taking the motor out.
quote]Originally posted by greenhj
did you make the header plates?
[/quote]
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ah ok.
Seperate pipes can be a bugger, they like to move around.
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Agreed. I may end up pinning each plate to the head. Before I cut it down I will drill a hole in the plate near each port and then into the head. I will then use a roll pin in each hole to ensure each one is aligned. At the collector end I will have tabs welded to 2 pipes and the collector. There will be straps between the tabs positively holding the collector in place.
quote: Originally posted by greenhj
ah ok.
Seperate pipes can be a bugger, they like to move around.
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