Rebuilt and repaired PBR C6 style calipers were an ebay bargain. New pads and caliper kits cost a few bucks. The adaptor brackets were another ebay bargain because the seller didn't know what he was selling. These came attached to a servicable set of VT calipers with braided hoses. Rotors are 343mm VT HSV. The total cost for those monster size upgrade is about $300. This is a quarter of the price of smaller kits sold by the EXPERTS.






The One Tonner project looks like nothing is happening. However the engine and transmission are now ready. The brake system upgrade is sorted and nearly ready to go. Once the weather gets warmer I'll get stuck into stripping the cab off the chassis and detailing/rebuilding the chassis and suspension.

EJ and EH wiper motor conversion under way. My previous versions have been one offs however I now plan to sell a few so I'm making up a set of jigs to speed the process up. I used a spare firewall and some centreing pins to find all the relevant measurements.

Edited by user Sunday, 23 June 2013 6:51:46 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Wiper motor conversion supplies. Almost ready to produce the first batch



Working out the Commodore motor mounting bolt PCD.

I didn't like the look of the black 10lb Nitrous bottle so I decided to strip it, polish then brush finish it. Well Stripping alone took 3hours. The paint was too thick to sandblast off. Then if I tried to sand it aggressivley it would melt and clog the sander. So it was slow and steady with the DA sander then into the sand blast cabinet. Now it just needs polishing and brushing



Ever wondered what hi tech wizardry is engineered into the pickup tube of a Nitrous bottle. Well here it is. 3/8" annealed copper connected to a brass compression fitting.

Edited by user Monday, 15 July 2013 3:00:01 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Nitrous bottle makeover came out OK. What a pain in the neck it was removing the black paint from the bottle. It was thick and soft so clogged the sander easily. Blanket is made from heatproof material so should help keep thins warm.

The torque converter cover is off and here is what I found. My amateur diagnosis was a torque converter to flexplate bolt had come loose and was rattling it's way around in the inspection cover. I WAS RIGHT. However all 3 converter bolts had come undone. So there was no drive connection between the transmission and engine yet I drove the car home. I guess the heavens were being nice to me. I found 1 bolt in the bottom of the cover, a second, as seen in this pic was still in the flexplate. This would have been the one making all the noise. The third one is nowhere to be found. I have searched everywhere and cannot see it. I cannot see where it has broken through the bellhousing/ cover etc to get out and disappear onto the road. It's a mystery. I will borrow one of those arthroscope type cameras on Monday and have a look up the top of the bellhousing to see if it's jammed up there somewhere. I have now run a tap through the converter bolt holes so will also have a look at those threads to make sure they are servicable. The original bolts were 8.8 grade so I'll see if I can get some 10.9 or higher, cover them in loctite and put it all back together.

Torque Converter bolts replaced and now working perfectly.




OK, new bolts fitted everything back together, give the Loctite a chance to cure, had lunch, life is good. Start the car and WTF the noise is still there. I can't believe it. As I turn the engine off there is a brief metallic noise that I heard twice whilst driving home from the Silverwater show. I had a very long and hard look for my third missing converter bolt before things went back together. I used the camera pictured below to get in and around the converter, into the starter drive housing, look on top of the webbing on the block. NO BOLT to be found. Where was the third bolt?
I was left with no choice but pull it down again. So instead of ripping the exhaust off again I thought I would undo the inspection cover and get the camera in to have a look. Guess what I found MY THIRD MISSING BOLT. Got the bolt out with the magnetic pickup tool and refitted the cover. Start it up and HAPPY DAYS. What a day.

New header plates and machined primary pipe adaptors. These adaptors will be welded to the header plate from inside for a neat final finish

No, I purchased them from Liverpool exhausts. They are VL/VN GPA plates hence the round ports. These are for 1-3/4" pipes. I am going to cut them into individual pieces so I will end up with 8 seperate plates. This is the only way I can get a tuned length setup and still be able to remove them without taking the motor out.
quote]Originally posted by greenhj
did you make the header plates?


[/quote]

Agreed. I may end up pinning each plate to the head. Before I cut it down I will drill a hole in the plate near each port and then into the head. I will then use a roll pin in each hole to ensure each one is aligned. At the collector end I will have tabs welded to 2 pipes and the collector. There will be straps between the tabs positively holding the collector in place.

quote:

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Originally posted by greenhj
ah ok.

Seperate pipes can be a bugger, they like to move around.

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