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Hi guys,
I need some options for a V8 to install in my HQ.
The qualities that I'm looking for is availability, reliability, price, ease of install and most of all, sound ;-).
So considering these points, what options do I have?
Cheers guys. |
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if you want cheap get a 253. I had a 253 4 barrel, extractors, out of a HX with electronic ignition conversion and big bearing water pump conversion that ran perfect and sounded nice typical 253 cackle. I was flat out giving it away, if I couldn't get $200 for it I was going to sell it in pieces considering the carby, sumps and mounts are worth good money and I now have to pay $75 for a sender. I think in the end I got 210 on ebay but I kept the mounts.
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quote:
Originally posted by Mr Sir
if you want cheap get a 253. I had a 253 4 barrel, extractors, out of a HX with electronic ignition conversion and big bearing water pump conversion that ran perfect and sounded nice typical 253 cackle. I was flat out giving it away, if I couldn't get $200 for it I was going to sell it in pieces considering the carby, sumps and mounts are worth good money and I now have to pay $75 for a sender. I think in the end I got 210 on ebay but I kept the mounts.
Not a bad price ($210) but I would have payed you more for it lol |
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Just a quick thought (don't know much if anything about them) how about a Rover V8? I'm sure that would be unique. But like I said, I know nothing about them. If it's a good idea, which size should I search for and out of which model? Thank you! |
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The one in this video sounds awesome; http://m.youtube.com/#/w...cxLR9IM&feature=related
but I'd put a mild cam in it to make it a little lumpy (are sports cams readily available for Rover V8's?) Edited by user Tuesday, 19 March 2013 9:07:36 AM(UTC)
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Stick with the holden. Th erover V8 is a good engine but why make life hard for yourself?
Check out the English sports car company TVR. They used engines based on the rover V8.
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The cheapest, easiest option is a 253 conversion as stated above. The best value conversion will be a VN onwards EFI304 and 4L60/4L60E. This is a simple conversion on a HQ sedan, an if you use a red bottom end no Engineering either. |
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quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
The cheapest, easiest option is a 253 conversion as stated above. The best value conversion will be a VN onwards EFI304 and 4L60/4L60E. This is a simple conversion on a HQ sedan, an if you use a red bottom end no Engineering either.
Could I please have a little more info on that VN 304 top end and red block? I'm interested now! |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom118
quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
The cheapest, easiest option is a 253 conversion as stated above. The best value conversion will be a VN onwards EFI304 and 4L60/4L60E. This is a simple conversion on a HQ sedan, an if you use a red bottom end no Engineering either.
Could I please have a little more info on that VN 304 top end and red block? I'm interested now!
all that is needed is to fit a cam to suit EFI heads as the valves run in a different order to the red and blue heads, and all the top end off an injected motor including the distributor, loom and compuuter
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I don't think the valves run in a different order. I think you might mean a different cam profile.
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Yes, the valves do run in a different order.
Carby Holden V8s have their valves arranged E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E, whereas the EFI V8s go E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I in similar fashion to Big-Block Chevs & Clevos (E = exhaust & I = inlet, BTW). It needs the lobes to be in different locations.
How much engineering approval is required to fit a complete EFI V8 into an HZ ? It must be easier (& cheaper) than freshening up a tired old 308, & fitting a new camshaft, heads & manifolds.
Dr Terry
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quote:
Originally posted by Tom118
quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
The cheapest, easiest option is a 253 conversion as stated above. The best value conversion will be a VN onwards EFI304 and 4L60/4L60E. This is a simple conversion on a HQ sedan, an if you use a red bottom end no Engineering either.
Could I please have a little more info on that VN 304 top end and red block? I'm interested now!
You will need the sump, oil pick up and engine mounts from a HQ -WB V8 to fit the 304 hence the reason they are now worth something and getting harder to get
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Terry, it costs about $500 minimum for Engineering unless you know someone who does it cheaper for you eg a mate. Plus cost of cats, change to sealed fuel tank for canister etc, plus you have to run a factory Memcal. Given many of these 304's need a bit of love nowadays, it makes sense to use an old red block during a bottome end rebuild and avoid all the hassle. |
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quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
Terry, it costs about $500 minimum for Engineering unless you know someone who does it cheaper for you eg a mate. Plus cost of cats, change to sealed fuel tank for canister etc, plus you have to run a factory Memcal. Given many of these 304's need a bit of love nowadays, it makes sense to use an old red block during a bottome end rebuild and avoid all the hassle.
A donor car will give you the cat, you are modifying the fuel tank anyway, so canister vent lines are a very minor extra. You already own the factory mem-cal (from the donor). $500 is cheap compared to the price of a cam & lifters, gaskets & the many other bits you'll need. $500 doesn't buy much labour either, but if you are doing it yourself then that doesn't count. I still say, if you have a good donor car, I'd rather pay the $500 than stuff around doing an engine rebuild. If you have plenty of spare time, don't cost your labour & the donk needs a rebuild then it's a different story. Dr Terry |
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The reason I said it is i've seen a few really cheap conversions of late where the engines are worn, like less than $500 for engine and box. Still runs but down on compression a bit. If you were doing a bare bones conversion it will be OK if you get a good engine, but many people don't use the factory cat and want a better cam too. On a VR-VS you can't use the factory memcal, it has to be modded for the BCM and to the letter of the law you can't change the Memcal's program, meaning costly $ on a BCM simulator. So if you needed to pull one of these down to do rings and bearings and probably a cam why not use a red bottom end!
Plus it is quite easy to buy a good compression red 308 for not a lot of money, all you have to do is bolt the top end on and change the cam - as you say this way to do it is best done if you are doing it yourself! It also gives you the opportunity to use a 4spd pattern transmission if that is what you want eg using a trimatic or 3spd in a HK-HG to retain column shift and bench. |
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Fair enough. If the engine needs work then so be it, but if you're doing it commercially it is a more economical proposition to spend a bit more up front for a good donor car, the job is then quicker & cheaper, with a very good end result.
I don't agree with your premise that removing the VATS section of the mem-cal is against the 'letter of the law'. The laws (or ADRs in this case) are for emissions only. You are not doing an engine transplant to a larger or radically different powerplant. The anti-theft thing is a different matter altogether. Is there actually an ADR for that & why would it apply to an HZ ?
I've carried out many of these conversions & had conversations with many engineers on the finer points.
Dr Terry |
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Many do not like the Memcal being re-written which is what you have to do to remove the BCM that way, not sure how they'd know though if you have a UV eraser and can program it up! |
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quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
Many do not like the Memcal being re-written which is what you have to do to remove the BCM that way, not sure how they'd know though if you have a UV eraser and can program it up!
You don't actually 're-write' the whole mem-cal program. The guys that do mine just edit the VATs out of it & do any other small mods that I request, like dropping the radiator fan switch-on temp slightly etc. All the fuel & ignition maps remain unchanged. Dr Terry. |
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You can also use a new Harrop manifold and a 4 barrel carb with the VN heads if you dont what to run the EFI.
Having just changed the motor in my V8 Discovery due to overheating issues I would recommend sticking to cast iron blocks.
James |
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