Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 34
|
Hi, I am still trying to fit a 304 into my HZ kingswood. What happens if I fit an auto 304 (from an auto doner)then fit manual g'box to it - what does the computer do? ie does it just not run because it can't 'see' a g'box or does it run badly etc etc
thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,717
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 512 time(s) in 488 post(s)
|
Which series 304? It should still work fine in most cases. Depending upon which sereis engine it is you may have to get the Memcal modified for BCM disabling or ppk constant modified for your tyres and diff ratio for the speed sensor input. So any required changes can be done then anyway.
Commodorenut will probably have more info for you if he sees this post. |
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 34
|
Well I have a good 304 already but it's missing the loom and computer. I would like to get a doner vehicle so that I know I have everything (I am not keen on hashing together separate looms, computers etc) but most cheap old clunkers seem to be autos. I have seen a few auto VNs available for about $1000 !!! Computers seem to be at least $500.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 6,058
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 203 time(s) in 184 post(s)
|
This all depends on which model the donor car is.
VN/VG/VQ/VP V8 have the same ECU for auto & man, all that's needed is a mem-cal swap, but the the auto mem-cal will still work if need be.
VR/VS V8 have different ECUs for auto & manual, these will not interchange.
VTI V8 has the one ECU for both, just swap the mem-cal, but unlike the VN/VP the manual mem-cal must be used, you won't get away with the auto mem-cal.
Late VSIII V8 use the VTI V8 ECU.
Dr Terry |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 6,058
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 203 time(s) in 184 post(s)
|
quote:
Originally posted by will_massey00
Well I have a good 304 already but it's missing the loom and computer. I would like to get a doner vehicle so that I know I have everything (I am not keen on hashing together separate looms, computers etc) but most cheap old clunkers seem to be autos. I have seen a few auto VNs available for about $1000 !!! Computers seem to be at least $500.
A donor car is the best way to go. VN/VP ECUs are dirt cheap, V6 & V8 are the same, just a different mem-cal. V8 mem-cals are getting rare & expensive though. Dr Terry |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/05/2012(UTC)
Posts: 34
|
That's all excellent information - thanks. Can I pick your brains a bit more. I know this must be very do-able as I've seen quite a few kingswoods with EFI engines but can I just clarify what is involved in the electrics side
Obviously I need the loom including ignition module etc, which is connected to the computer but on top of that, what is needed. I assume there is an obvious conection to the fuel pump. Do I also need the ingnition assembly? Is there any kind of imobiliser on these earlier cars? So am I better off just swapping all the electrics from the ignition key onwards?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,717
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 512 time(s) in 488 post(s)
|
There isn't that much to do, just some relays for fuel pump etc, alternator excite wire from the dash, some power feeds under the bonnet and under the dash. It is very neat if you use the Commodore's fuse box and relocate the battery over to the driver's side using original wiring sockets off the donor car so that the engine's control harness and battery harnesses simply plug in as they did in the original car. Use a T-piece off the oil pump so you can run the EFI pressure sender and the one for your guage, and find somewhere to stick your temperature guage sender. You can use the extra relays and fuses in teh Commodore fuse box to replace the horn and high beam relays stuck on the RH guard of the HZ to neaten it all up.
OR go out and buy a harness already done for a HZ, plug and play. Will cost about $750 exchange.
Fuel is easy in a HZ Kingswood sedan, just use the whole fuel tank off the VN-VP sedan donor car, will fit with longer rods at the front on the straps. HQ-WB engine mounts, sump, pickup and dipstick. HZ V8 radiator and shroud, using a red V8 viscous fan. Power steering pump bolts straight up. You can file the square hole round in the firewall and use a VN throttle cable but someone on Ebay makes up the cable for this conversion now.
You can even fit VN-VP cruise, using the speed sensor output and a few dash buttons. The module operates the throttle body, just mount it on the inner guard. |
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 6,058
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 203 time(s) in 184 post(s)
|
To add to Byron's comments, use the complete Commodore engine harness & join it to your car using plugs cut out of the Commodore engine bay. That keeps the engine harness complete & unmolested.
Moving the battery to the RHS allows all the power Commodore cables to fit spot on & the air filter box will now fit where the battery was on the LHS. Using the Commodore engine bay fusebox & fuel tank also works well.
You have no worry about immobilisers with VN/VP.
Dr Terry |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/08/2007(UTC)
Posts: 60
Thanks: 1 times
|
quote:
Originally posted by HK1837
Use a T-piece off the oil pump so you can run the EFI pressure sender and the one for your guage,
The 304 oil pressure sender is not needeed, the only difference is that it contains a switch that is connected to the fuel pump circuit so that if the fuel pump relay fails the fuel pump will continue to run while there is oil pressure. I have only fitted the warning light sender on my WB conversion. If you are worried just keep a spare relay or wire jumper in the glovebox. I am also running a VN auto tune with a manual in my WB and it runs fine, I have compared the VN manual and auto tunes and there are only a few small differences anyway. The ECU works out if you have an auto or manual at engine start by the signal on the pin for the park/neutral switch, on a manual just don't connect it to anything.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
