Gday Guys. A question for the Commodore gurus. I have a VS S3 5.0 ute. I've just got back from the EJ-EH ASR in Mt. Gambier. While I was there it started this problem. Never happened before.

It was running fine,then I turned it off. When I tried to start it, it would turn over but not fire. I had a fiddle under the bonnet, made sure all the relays were seated, checked the battery terminals. It started and ran fine. Coming home, twice it did the same thing after getting fuel. The other times it started fine. It didn't stop while running until I got to within 100 metres from home, it just stopped. Same thing, I couldn't find a cause for the problem. It did it once going to work this morning, 12 km's. Got home fine.

I had a look under the bonnet this arvo, I found the wire going to the bonnet alarm switch was cut near the booster and maybe shorting on the booster. All the wiring on the relays looks good, this includes fiddling while running. The guy at the local garage suggested the crank angle sensor.

Any clues?

Many Thanks,

Colin.

Heat soak in the ignition module (the finned alloy box on the inner guard behind the air filter) is the most common problem with them when this happens. When it happens again, pour some cold water on the module and see if it's an instant cure. If it is, then replace the module (see Dr Terry for remanufactured ones). If that doesn't cure it, then it's likely to be the CAS inside the dizzy - again, see Dr Terry for a replacement.

Yes, the CAS is like a pickup inside the dizzy. When I did mine, I just did a whole exchange job with Dr T.
With hands & arms on the larger end of the scale, I struggled, but it is do-able. I found putting blankets on the manifold & laying on top of it, then wrapping your arms around the back (over the rocker cover corners) to be the best way to access everything with 2 hands. Pop the cap off, with the leads still in place. Mark the rotor position on the dizzy case, and the case to the engine. Transfer these to the replacement dizzy (or re-fitted one if you change the CAS yourself) so you can get it lined up close. Finish by putting the car into diagnostic mode & set the timing with a light. 10 degrees is the factory setting, but stock EFI 5L will pick up a bit of throttle response if you advance it to around 14 or so, with no detrimental effects.

And while you're in there, do yourself a favour & fit a new coil. You know how Murphy likes to come back & bite you, and you don't want to have to delve back in there 2 weeks later.

quote:

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Originally posted by colt
My ignition module is not running hot. I'm presuming it would be if giving trouble.
Colin.

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Not good diagnostics Colin, that won't necessarily be the case. A crook module won't really run any hotter than a good module.

Commodorenut is on the money & the chances of it being either the dissy or the module are 50/50, I've actually had several cars where it was both.

Dr Terry

Pour cold water on the module when it fails to start.
If it's an instant cure, then you know it's the module.

Hi Colin.

The long mark, from memory is TDC & the ignition should be set at 10 degrees BTDC. But it must be timed with the pins on the diagnostic plug shorted out, otherwise it will end up retarded.

If in doubt, ring me at work tomorrow.

Dr Terry