Hi All,
I really need some help here to work out were in the hang I have stuffed up. I have removed the three speed shifter from my column in my WB column shift and at no time did I hit the inner shaft only using a puller to remove the steering wheel but I did find when reassembling the column the inner shaft did not protrude from the base of the outer column housing where the steering coupling would attache, allowing the column to stand on its end when installing the top circlip but then there is no shaft protrusion at all to attach the steering coupling. So I disassembled the column and found that the inner shaft could be slid to different lengths, longer and shorter, when sprayed with a bit of CRC and held in a vice with very little resistance so because of this I had to put some vice grips on the lower part of the inner shaft to have enough shaft protruding to install the steering coupling and to stand the column on the end so that the top circlip could be be installed It is obvious that during assembly the inner shaft is collapsing when it is coming up against any minor resistance ,like when trying to fit the top part through the top bear until the circlip ring contacts the bearing this is when the shaft decreases in length loosing the amount of protrusion that the steering coupling would require to attach to. Have you understood that so far?? the problem now is the column has been refitted to the car even when trying to fit the coupling was a pain because the inner shaft kept collapsing back into the steering column housing (decreasing in length), vice grips were required to hold it and prevent it from going back in. Now I am at the stage of fitting the steering wheel there is a lot of in and out play with the wheel fitted (which was not there prior to the mod there were no signs of the outer housing having been damaged (collapsed), no matter how much the wheel nut is tightened up I am at the point where I think if Keep tightening up the nut it may strip the thread on the inner shaft and damaging the bearing retainer ending up or worst case scenario with a stuffed ignition key housing. The wheel still moves in and out and the nut is very tight, I may try it to actual specs Tomorrow,In all my time, I just have never done up a steering wheel nut so tight or experienced an inner shaft that retracts like this one does to see if it takes away the movement I did disassemble another steering column and the inner shaft was the same collapsing when sprayed with CRC.Can any body work out or suggest what may have been the problem I may have caused. All replies appreciated cheers MS

Mr Sir,
I've done a few columns for manual gearbox cars, but not for a column change, but may be able to help with the problem you are describing.
The inner column should be telescopic, this is part of the callapsible column design. This will be enough movement to shorten the column so you have insufficient to connect the lower end to the steering coupling. One thing to check is that the small plastic pin has not been broken allowing excessive travel. This pin is visible through the collapsible "mesh" area of the lower column with the plastic cover removed. If it is broken, the shaft will compress way too far and has probable been in an accident.
Also check that the collapsible mesh section has not been deformed, as this is the area designed to collapse in an accident.
The top end of the shaft (steering wheel end) should be securely located in the top bearing, and should not move axially. Check that the top bearing has not been broken out of it'd housing in the "coffee pot". The top bearing is only held in by a thin ring of alloy and this is often broken by removing steering wheels without a puller.
The lower end of the shaft should be a snug fit in the lower bearing, so once all assembled, it is secure enough to allow the steering coupling to be installed onto the splines. The problem I have often had is getting the lower bearing fitted into the column housing without shortening the shaft, but holding it as you mentioned should do the job. Also check that the lower bearing is fully in place and the retaining arrangement is all the right way round.
Tightening the steering wheel nut will not help with this problem.
Hope this helps.

it appears that the GTS wheel I was fitting is actually slightly worn around the area just below the splines which is possibly the reason the wheel is not clamping on the taper giving it the in/ out free play (it is not even able to be tightened enough that a puller is required to remove the wheel as it is still loose on the shaft, you can push it in and feel the spring) .I do believe the reason for the inner shaft retracting when I was trying to fit the coupling /knuckle as mentioned I have a couple here to look at and compare but I don't think putting the CRC on helped the situation making the shaft retract /collapse a whole lot easier as the nylon pins are not exactly there as an actual shear design in an accident more of a resistance factor with the the nylon pins that you can actually see only there to locate a layer of nylon between the inner and outer shaft which I have now lubricated with the CRC. I also believe the top bearing has wear issues allowing for a bit of the end play . Then to top it all off I asked the son to go and try the original steering wheel back on to eliminate the worn wheel possibility and you guessed it he crossed threaded the nut which has now totally stuffed the inner shaft( I am unable to do anything myself at the moment due to recent surgery)!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!