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Folks,
Doing a refresh of seals on an old HQ power steering box. Managed to disassemble with minimum of injury, taking photos on the way. However, ther eis one part which dropped out at the end, and I am not sure where it hails from.
It is a metal disk about 1" round and 1//8" thick, with half a ball mounted to one side. It seemed to be buried fairly deep in there, but doesn't seem to correspond to any slots or holes.
I have hunted about the internet a bit, but can't seem to find any diagrams or pictures of the internals. Anyone offer any suggestions? |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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That's the thrust plate which supports the back of the piston gear. It sits up against the Allen bolt adjuster which protrudes the side of the main case of the box.
Dr Terry |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
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Ahhhh. I see where it goes. Awesome, thanks. |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Next issue (and last before box completely apart) is the seal and needle bearings at the input shaft of the box. Managed to get out the snap ring and first seal, but the next cup seal (with spring reinforcing) is proving a little reluctant. Seal kit not here yet, so not sure if needle bearing behind it is included and has to come out as well. |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Made some good progress, some not so good. Got the box apart, tidied up and mostly reassembled. The only bugbear has been the input shaft seal, which has been a right pillock (to be as polite as possible).
Attempting to press the seal down the shaft into place, it catches on the edge of the box bore and concertinas the edge of the seal. I tidied up the edge with a file to try and take the knife edge off that seemed to be catching the seal, but no joy, just keeps squashing / deforming / turning to custard. After 3 seal kits, turned to a box of old gaskets and seals ans found one which fitted in smoothly. Then found out why it went in so smoothly when all the fluid came hovering out so quickly when firing up the engine and filling the system with fluid.
Did the old "clamp off return hose, remove circlip and blow seal out" trick to get shaft seal out, but now thinking there must be some cunning trick to getting them in. Should they be installed without the shaft in place, so that they can "shrink" as they go in, then put the shaft through later, or is it just a case of taking a bit more of the bore lip off so that it starts smoothly and goes in cleanly? |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Researching further, it looks like the seal may have to go in through the inside of the box (probably why it was so reluctant to go on from the outside). Does anyone have any suggestions / tips / tricks / diagrams. I can lay my hands on / create most workshop tools, but would like guidance as to what I am up to rather than having to figure out what I am up to.
Cheers
J |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Feck it. Happened again, even going in from the inside with a drift built to the size of the inside of the metal part of the seal (so that the lip didn't get folded over). A couple of careful taps, and it went in a couple of mm, was looking good. A couple more careful taps, it twisted slightly, wrecked the spring and split the rubber seal part.
The whole fecking lot is now off to the scrappies, and I am putting the manual steering back in. Can't buy the seals individually, and not paying another $60 for a kit to wreck another seal. Certainly not paying the $600 for a recon box, or taking the chance on a $300 wrecker box. Hopefully might get a few notes back on the pump, but out a few hundy on the hoses.
What a waste of time, effort and energy that was. Sheesh. |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Grump over. Got a replacement seal from local diesel mechanics. Shape a little better for installing, a bit more careful, managed to get it into place. Yet to see if it works, but an improvement already. |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Rank: Member
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Grump over. Got a replacement seal from local diesel mechanics. Shape a little better for installing, a bit more careful, managed to get it into place. Yet to see if it works, but an improvement already. |
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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How did you go with the replacement seal?
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Hi all am a newbie as well. HX prem box leak. It only leaks/ weep from the bottom of the front lock collar. Can you take this off and replace an I ring or such. Been searching for diagrams. Does this drop the adjust sleeve? Out to expose a no ring.
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Yes, there is an o-ring inside the front lock collar bit. It will take geat delight in dumping a bunch of PS fluid over you if you take it out in place (which is possible, but awkward). It is not too hard to pull out box, there are a couple of tricks I have found with my HJ.
1 - jack front end up slightly so that tyres are lighter to steer (and a bit easier to get underneath)
2 - shock pitman arm loose (3/4 nyloc nut). Undo it and give it a thud with a socket extension bar on the end or similar (otherwise it will end up jamming later when it is all heavy and impossible).
3 - undo rag joint and lift intermediate shaft up out of the way slightly.
4 - undo PS hoses and drop into a ice cream container or similar to catch the fluid
5 - undo the three main bolts attaching to chassis. When the last one is undone, the box will drop onto steering bar and pitman arm. You can then lift it up and clear.
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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