Will welding back of pano srink metal?? Options

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eskimo_joe777		#1 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2005 4:20:36 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 28/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 37		Im just wondering if i end up welding some metal into where the windows were on my panelvan if it will srink or warp the around the window? thought i would ask instead of doing it and finding out the hard way! Any info would be good. Cheers justin
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Dr Terry		#2 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2005 4:38:15 AM(UTC)
Rank: Veteran Reputation: Groups: Moderator, Registered Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 6,114 Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 219 time(s) in 199 post(s)		Hi justin. Yes it will warp. Also you've taken on a very difficult job there, even the pros have trouble getting it right. I think that windows in the side looks a lot better than holes that have been obviously patched up. Dr Terry.
		If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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Taz2		#3 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2005 4:19:43 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 258		Depends on how you do it....spot or puddle weld using mig or a henrob torch is best. You need to take your time and do alternating welds to minimise heat build up. Trying to weld all round would be disasterous :-( This is one place where minimal filler
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Guest		#4 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2005 9:13:05 PM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		I have used panel glue, its called FUSOR no distortion and you wont seperate it. Make your patch bigger than the hole the use a rebate tool on the patch to make it fit the hole from behind. Then pop rivet the patch in place with a rivet in each corner to

666		#5 Posted : Tuesday, 29 March 2005 11:39:30 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 29/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 189		Rogo, Does this work better than Fibreglass ? 666
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Guest		#6 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 12:21:10 AM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		Is what part better than fibreglass ? The fibrefill used for initial filling of the rebate gap after the patch is glued in is a form of fibreglass. There is no substitute for the glue except for another brand of glue or a welder ! Dont even think of

eskimo_joe777		#7 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 5:16:43 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 28/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 37		Thanks for the info it was really helpful. i might get me mate who's a panelbeater to give it a go for me and see how we go!
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Guest		#8 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 5:25:10 AM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		Cool, if your mate wants any advise send me an email, I have done it a fair few times now and have pretty well perfected it. [email protected]

Guest		#9 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 6:02:55 AM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		Another Panel Boning Adhesive that does a really great job is 3M Automix. We glued in rust repair panels around the wheel arch on a HQ as well as the floor section, these products are better than weld as again there is no wraping. Lots of the more expensi

eskimo_joe777		#10 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 9:15:49 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 28/03/2005(UTC) Posts: 37		Where is the bset place to go get the panel glue? just an auto paint shop or do i go to a panelbeater/auto repair place? And any idea's as to how much will it cost me in glue to do the 4 back windows? Cheers Justin
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Guest		#11 Posted : Wednesday, 30 March 2005 11:13:25 PM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		Have a look at the 3M products site for Australia.

Guest		#12 Posted : Thursday, 31 March 2005 3:18:20 AM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		I just buy mine from a paint & panel beating supply shop. It was around $30 per tube and depending on the size of your windows 3 tubes may be enough. You may have to hire the special gun to apply it as it mixes the 2 parts as you squeeze the trigger. The

Guest		#13 Posted : Wednesday, 4 April 2007 7:19:07 AM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		mate if u have a mig and the no how u can tack it in say every 25mm then oxy it the rest of the way u wont need a henrob for that plain old oxy with no 4 tip will do the jop if u cant use a oxy can finish off with the mig less heat.where r u what state /

VL05		#14 Posted : Wednesday, 4 April 2007 8:30:04 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 30/11/2005(UTC) Posts: 278		Just a question from the less educated and perhaps a lazier method. Would it be possible to lap join a sheet larger then the hole on the inside of the van then fill the low level with fibreglass or weld an additional sheet on top of the lap-jointed sheet?
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Guest		#15 Posted : Tuesday, 10 April 2007 9:40:40 PM(UTC)
Rank: Guest Groups: Guests Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977 Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)		I have just removed the windows from my HQ Sandman resto. Cut the entire roof off and fitted another windowless top from a donor 74 van. Perfect, would not do it any other way and a hell of a lot easier.

hainzy		#16 Posted : Wednesday, 11 April 2007 1:12:33 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Reputation: Groups: Registered Joined: 30/05/2005(UTC) Posts: 651 Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)		Gday cannon. hey mate ive been thinking about doing the same thing. Did you just cut it at the seams where it joins the ute body? Where did you cut it from the cabin roof? Was it relativly easy or a major pain? ive been thinking about doing this to my HZ
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