Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Got a Camaro that has a voltmeter but no idiot light. When driving the volts will gradually drop down from around 13 to very low, and sometimes at night while idling for a long period like at a M<acdonalds or something the car will stop. Alternator has new brushes, regualtor and other bits, battery is new, (and it was doing it with the old battery) . All leads/earths have been cleaned. Any suggestions? Any Australian alternators that will replace the crummy Delco, and does it need a idiot light to generate? Thanks
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Also you can see the voltmeter dropping as you drive.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
John
At the risk of telling you something you already know, the easiest way to see if the alternator is doing the job is put a multimeter (on the volts setting) across the battery whilst it is running. Raise the revs a little above idle, and the vo
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
John
At the risk of telling you something you already know, the easiest way to see if the alternator is doing the job is put a multimeter (on the volts setting) across the battery whilst it is running. Raise the revs a little above idle, and the vo
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Thanks Matt there is a voltmeter in the car so we know what the alternator is doing. My thoughts were that maybe there is a small break in the windings somewhere and as the motor gets hot the windings expand and the break opens up. There is only a standa
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
You do need an idiot light for it to charge...it provides the initial excitation...from memomy to the DF or dynamo feild terminal.
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Sounds like a plausable theory John. I've had this sort of thing happen before with the lacquer on the windings breaking down (electrically) at higher temperatures then working once again when it had cooled down. I proved it in my case by having access to
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
This too is possible, however, before you do that, can you confirm that this alternator and voltmeter is the original configuration. If not, then FastEHHolden's solution is probably more likely (using the light instead of the guage). If it IS the origin
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC) Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
This is original factory wiring, no idiot light. I can only assume there is a resistance or something in there to provide a current draw to tickle the alternator.
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.