the annular booster will make low speed/low load driving on the mains easier, but cost some airflow over a standard downleg.

BUT, with a dual plane manifold the carb is "smaller" to the engine anyway so it should signal better, being thats the case id probably use the standard downleg booster and get it tuned by someone who knows more than main jet changes.

most of the time, with a big carb on a small engine (remember VE, not capacity is what determines this) youll be driving around on the transition slots anyway (because the engine just wont want any more air at typical road speeds), and 90% of the tuning is idle/transition. Mains are easy and all that the typical dyno monkey will bother looking at.

I also reckon teh heads are too big for that little camshaft and it will be doughy at low rpm.

you can cover the lack of airspeed with more convertor or rear gear.

3.08 gears will strangle it, no sense making more power higher in teh rpm band, then killing off throttle response with tall gears, id use 3.55 at a minimum, youll waste more fuel running an engine out of its efficiency range than youll save by deliberately undergearing it.

what are the flow numbers for the heads, who built the donk, what else do you know about it?

should be a nice street engine, what are you doing for a fuel system and exhaust?

what are you doing for convertor? Im about to take out and sell mine (I need 4500 stall minimum nowadays), and i reckon it would suit your combo well.

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11.38@117mph

will go quicker

Edited by user Tuesday, 24 August 2010 1:25:12 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

good choice on the harrop/dl booster combo.

.580" lift is a decent stick in a flat tappet (for a streeter anyway), im only moving the valve .550ish to run the below numbers, with a "worse" manifold and 10.8:1 comp

a crane 280 is a good choice for a reasonablly comfortable driver with a good bit of poke, should be able to make 450hp easy as p1ss.

Dunno what sort of dollars you want to spend on a convertor (new/SH etc) but expect to spend 800 plus for a GOOD brand new convertor, or around 400ish for a GOOD secondhand one around 3500stall.

i wouldnt go any less than 3500 though whatever you end up doing, heavy cars love it, and people who talk about "big" convertors being a pig on the street obviously dont own one, or had one 20yrs ago when gemini convertors in turbo gearboxes was the hot ticket.

slip aint stall, remember that lol.

ll sell you mine if your keen lol, 3500 eliminator by autoflite engineering(flashes to 4k in my car) 10" shell, happy to cruise on 2500rpm, but id want 500 for it.

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11.38@117mph

will go quicker

11.34@121mph

went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

good choice on the cam, make sure you get the lifters from camtech with edge orifice oiling and the lobe oiler holes too.

ive copied your number so you can delete it from your post (avoid the pranksters lol)

use 3175 as a postcode for freight and it will be close enough.

let me think about 450, im a procrastinator so if you dont here from me via text or phone post in this thread again to remind me.

engine came out on the weekend so the convertor is sitting on the bench at the moment.

cheers

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11.38@117mph

will go quicker

11.34@121mph

went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

Edited by user Tuesday, 31 August 2010 6:53:45 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

looks like the convertor has been sold, a friend of mine wants it, sorry about that mate but im sure something will come up if you dont intend on having a specific convertor made to your combo.

some questions to ask the seller:

What engine/trans/diff combo?
was it raced, can i see a timeslip?
Who built it, and can i have the part number?

first question will tell you a little about how it will perform in your car, obviously a 3500 convertor for a 383 will perform a lot different to the same convertor behind a 308.

timeslip tells you if the thing actually transfers power efficiently, if you get told it was behind a 500hp engine and the car 60' time is 2.0 on slicks, give it a miss.

if you can get a part number, often if you ring the manufacturer they can probably tell you whether it will be suitable, or a complete dog, on your engine.

There is scope to alter a convertor thats already been built and the only person who'll know is the guy who built it.

hope this helps in your search.
phill

---

11.38@117mph

will go quicker

11.34@121mph

went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

Edited by user Thursday, 2 September 2010 3:55:33 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified