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aidanhq Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, 26 August 2010 9:07:37 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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I have followed the below instructions basically spot on.... I have converted my 308 to a 304 top end on my HQ... I used a VS top end, a VN v8 computer/loom and modified the distributor plug to suit VS (signal,12v and ground wires simple).. Im running a Bosch in-line pressure fuel pump with a VL turbo fuel filter inline.

-- INSTRUCTIONS I FOLLOWED....

"Wiring instruction for a injected 5 litre conversion
Since everyone keeps asking, i have made up a list for the wiring from the vn - vs injected 5 litre loom.if you are doing a conversion in your vl or commordore

i have done a injected 5litre conversion on my calais (originally carby v8) and done all the wiring myself. I`m am running a trimatic. But wiring is same if you run the turbo transmission. It takes a good 2 - 4 hours to do and not hard to do yourself,
just gota have some auto elec knowlodge.

If you have any question about it just send me a pm.
You will need 2 relays (4 pin) , one is a fuel pump relay and the other is a efi relay.
On a realy there are 4 pins which have nubers next to the pins, the numbers are: 85(switch power), 86(negative earth), 87(power supply direct from battery), 30(wire to item that will receive power)


black plug on the efi loom in engine bay (near battery):

Red wire:

Positive(+) power supply for injectors when ignition is switched on. Need to connect this red wire to relay pin 87 (this will be the efi relay)
a 30amp fuse (before connection to pin 30 on relay).
Connect pin 85 on relay from a ignition on power supply ( a wire that will give positive power when ignition is switched on only) , connect pin 86 on relay to earth, and connect pin 87 on relay to direct battery positive (+) power.
So relay should click on and off when ignition is turned on and off.


Violet(purple) wire:

Positive(+) power supply for fuel pump (via oil pressure switch) when ignition is switched on. Need to connect this violet wire to relay pin 87 (this will be the fuel pump relay) via a 30amp fuse (before connection to pin 30 on relay)

also you will need to connect a wire from your fuel pump (+) with this violet wire to relay pin 87 (so two wires go on the same pin on relay) as this will give power to the oil pressure switch and fuel pump when the ignition is switched on
(the computer is designed to only run the fuel pumps when there is oil pressure as a precaution and thats why the violet wire runs through the oil pressure switch) .
Connect pin 85 on relay from green with white trace wire on the black pulg( this wire that will give positive power when ignition is switched on only via the computer for one second and then cuts out until you start the engine and there is oil pressure)
, connect pin 86 on relay to earth, and connect pin 30 on relay to orange wire on black plug ( this wire goes to oil pressure switch as a direct power from battery) and also you need to join a wire direct from the battery (+) to this pin(30) on relay as well.
(so two wires go on the same pin on relay). So relay should click on and off when ignition is turned on and off via the computer.


Orange wire:

Positive (+) wire to oil pressure switch direct from battery to fuel pump relay pin 30 ( read above in violet wire)


red with black trace wire:

Positive (+) power supply for computer. Connect this red with black trace wire direct to the positive (+) battery power (countinuas power) via a 30amp fuse. No relay required. This will give continuas power to the computer.


Green with white trace:

Fuel pump switch wire from ecu to fuel pump relay pin 85 (read above in violet wire). Will give power to fuel pump relay to switch on and off.




Grey plug on efi loom in engine bay (near battery next to black plug)

bule with white wire:

Ac cooling fan relay(gives negative (-) power) (not reqiuired to hook up this wire anywhere) or you can hook up you themo`s to this wire via relay (and it will switch thermo`s on when water gets to 91c) can be altered to
different temp via computer (need software)


light green with black trace wire:

A/c relay (not required to hook up this wire anywhere) unless you are running air cond.


Blue wire:

Oil pressure light, give positive(+) power to a oil presure light in cabin. Does not need to be hook up if you dont have a oil pressure light, or you can just put a small led light on you dash and hook it uo to that.
(optional) specailly if you run a oil pressure guage.


Green (next to blue wire) wire:

Coolant tempreture signal wire, this give you a reading on you water temp guage. Best to put a aftermarket electric water temp guage with new sensor, as the vl dash guage will give you a wrong reading with the orignal sensor on the motor.
Connect this wire to you reciveing signal on you tempreture guage.


Green with black trace:

Not required.


Brown wire:

A/c switch. (not reqiured to hook up anywhere) unless you are going to connect the air cond up.

Brown with red trace wire:

Tacho signial, hook this wire up to your rpm tacho guage.




Black plug on efi loom in engine bay ( the one with 2 wires):

Purple wire:

Starter motor solinied positve (+) power supply. This wire need to be hook up to igntion starter, so when you turn the key to start it give power to the starter motor to turn over.


Brown wire:

Alternator dash light positive (+) output, this wire needs to be connected to a battery light on the dash, otherwise ti will no charge the battery if it is not hook up to a battery light.





White plug on efi loom near computer (inside car):


Brown with white trace wire:

Check engine light negative (-) power output. (must connect) connect this wire to a light somewhere on you dash to negative wire on the light and the positive wire from the light should be connected to ignition on power.


Brown with yellow trace wire:

To trip computer. (not required to hook this wire up anywhere).



Pink plug on efi loom near computer (inside car):

This plug hooks up to your transmission wiring loom if you are running the turbo transmission. If you are running a trimatic or manual here are the wires to be connected:


Yellow with white trace wire:

Trip computer. (not required to hook up any where)


grey wire:

Inhibitor switch, negative (-) power input. This wire needs to be connected to you inhibitor switch on your gear stick so the computer knows when it is in park on netural.
If the car is manual than this needs to be earthed out to negative (-) continuasly.


Grey with red trace wire:

Tourque converter clutch solinied. (not required to hook up any where if not running a four speed transmission)


pink (next to grey with red trace wire) wire:

Anti theft circuit. Need to connect this wire to positive (+) ignition on, otherwise it will no run the computer, this wire can be hooked up to your immobiliser realy so the car will not
start unless this wire gets a positive power supply.


Light blue wire:

Auto transmission tempreture switch/ 4th gear. (not required to hook up any where if not running a four speed transmission).


This is all thats needed to do and the car will start.



good write up man, just wanna add three things to this thread off the top of my head.

pin 30 on a relay is the supply and pin 87 is the load. although it will still work the otherway around as they are just a set of contacts, the standard for wiring a relay is pin 30 supply and 87 load. This will make problem diagnosis easier down the track.

It also says to put a fuse in between the relay and the load, this doesnt completly protect the circuit. The fuse should be the first thing in the circuit from the battery to pin 30, that way all the wiring from the battery to the relay and all the way to the load is protected.

Last thing is the oil pressure switch doesnt inhibit fuel pump operation in the event of oil preassure loss. it is there incase the fuel pump relay becomes faulty, the engine can be cranked and when oil preasure is raised, the switch closes and runs the pumps.

To test this, unplug the oil pressure switch and it will still start and run fine. Or disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the motor, when the oil pressure light turns off the fuel pumps will turn on and engine will start.



hey all.i have folowed this wiring diagram.

my car cranks over now.
i have problems with this part it doesnt work unles you bridge the violet wire mentioned up the start of this diagram.it cranks over with the pink wire hooked up but fuel pump only works when you bridge it to pink wire and now fuel pump primes constantly.how do i get it to work normaly?

pink (next to grey with red trace wire) wire:

Anti theft circuit. Need to connect this wire to positive (+) ignition on, otherwise it will no run the computer, this wire can be hooked up to your immobiliser realy so the car will not
start unless this wire gets a positive power supply."

After testing the computer for IGNITION/power on B1, A6 and C16 successfully and hearing my fuel pump prime, my engine warning/oil pressure lights shine I thought I was onto a winner..

Tested for pulse at injectors with noid light with no success.. Test power on coil with a test light with power on ignition it shines, but crank and nothing. Im also not getting any fuel delivery what so ever.. The above FUEL PUMP relay clicks and definately primes the pump on ignition...

Im quite sure I dont have spark, Ill get my spark tester tomorrow and double check..

Whats going on guys????
aidanhq Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 26 August 2010 9:35:49 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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I have reason to believe my loose HALL EFFECT sensor on the dizzy is the main culprit.

Am I right in saying that the dizzy sensor provides signal for injectors (explains lack of pulse).
Could this also be cause of loss of fuel pump or is this an immobilisor problem?
aidanhq Offline
#3 Posted : Friday, 27 August 2010 6:44:01 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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UPDATE:

"u said in post no fuel at all, is the 044 (inline pressure pump) mounted above the tank,if so it will not pick up fuel.
044 pumps are good for 600+ hp u will need a regulator. i would use a 040 pump(vl pump)as it will pick up & pressure.
the pump priming on & off is normal with efi (not a holley blue for a carb)
as for spark dont no? tryin to help with what i know!
cheers joe"



Ok

So i disconnected my fuel pump + wire and connected a long wire straight to battery.. YAY I got fuel delivery into container. Now I need to find out if my FUEL PUMP RELAY wiring is incorrect, or if it simply requires a good hall effect signal for the fuel pump to receive this power source!

RELAY WIRING as follows

30 - Battery (30amp fuse), Also connected to orange wire (positive to oil pressure switch).
86 - Ground (decent)
85 - Connected to Green/White wire (Ignition power via computer for a second).
87 - Connected to + on fuel pump and to Violet wire (oil pressure feed).

How exactly should I mount the fuel pump below the HQ fuel tank?? Currently it is mounted above the tank. How should the fuel lines be routed?

Cheers
Mike81973 Offline
#4 Posted : Saturday, 28 August 2010 12:07:00 AM(UTC)
Mike81973

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Hi,
I converted my HJ Statesman and I made it straight gas and had very few of the electrical problems your are going through,
I fitted a recalibrated VH HEI disy and changing the wiring to 12v supply and a Gas research throttle body etc and I was right.
Probably not what you wanted to hear,
But have you considered going straight gas?

Mike

Purpul Police
Purpul Police
aidanhq Offline
#5 Posted : Saturday, 28 August 2010 6:47:45 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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Nah Ive done too many engine builds and now im at the end of this one haha

Ive just got a new dizzy and new ignition module, so Ill see tomorrow morning if Im getting injector pulse, spark etc.
HK1837 Offline
#6 Posted : Monday, 30 August 2010 4:48:38 AM(UTC)
HK1837

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I didn't read through the whole original post, but did you provide power from under the dash to the plug near to the ECU? From memory the wire in the plug is a pink wire.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
aidanhq Offline
#7 Posted : Thursday, 9 September 2010 2:13:13 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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Do I give ignition power or crank ignition power to the pink anti-theft wire??

Holdenute Offline
#8 Posted : Thursday, 9 September 2010 7:08:48 PM(UTC)
Holdenute

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Not sure it matters, but I've got crank on mine.

Never late in a V8
Never late in a V8
aidanhq Offline
#9 Posted : Sunday, 12 September 2010 4:34:49 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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No ignition pulse or spark
Since connecting pink anti-theft A6 wire to cranking ignition I have lost fuel pump priming, engine light on ignition and I still havn't got any pulse/spark.

My fuel pump used to prime when i connected the above to standard ignition power and my engine light used to come on with ignition. Now it only flashes when I crank.. WHAT THE f*** IS WRONG. argh its a dead end.

EFI RELAY
30 - Battery (30amp fuse) also connected to C16/B1 on ECU plug
86 - Ground
85 - Ignition cranking power, A6 PINK ANTI THEFT WIRE, Pink wire ALDL connector
87 - Ignition module, Ignition coil +, Injectors

FUEL PUMP RELAY
30 - Battery (30amp fuse), Also connected to orange wire (positive to oil pressure switch).
86 - Ground (decent)
85 - Connected to Green/White wire (Ignition power via computer for a second).
87 - Connected to + on fuel pump and to Violet wire (oil pressure feed) and violet wire in ALDL plug.

ENGINE LIGHT
Ignition on one side of the globe and brown/white wire in ECM plug on other side of the globe.
Fuel doesn't prime on ignition, engine light doesn't come on when in ignition position. No spark, injector pulse while cranking even with new coil, dizzy and ignition module...

HAS TO BE WIRING ISSUE.!!
mmazz30 Offline
#10 Posted : Sunday, 12 September 2010 9:38:00 AM(UTC)
mmazz30

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Found my old paper work....
Small black plug circuit #'s
120A Violet - Oil PSI fuel pump circuit
240A - Orange - Oil PSI fuel pump circuit
465 - Green/white trace - fuel pump relay +12V
540 - Orange/black or red/black - 12V to battery
481 - Red - positive injector feed

Big gray plug.....
121A - Thin/brown - tacho
449 - Thick/brown - AC request
35 - Thin/green - water temp
59 - Thick/green - AC compressor
31 - Blue/silver - oil light
366 - light green/black - AC control relay
304 - blue/white - radiator fan relay

White plug in cabin......
* pink ignition
419 - brown/white - check engine light
* 2 pinks on this plug go to ignition.

Is it definetly a VN ECU and memcal and not a VP with the anti theft wiring that needs to be bridged?
aidanhq Offline
#11 Posted : Sunday, 12 September 2010 8:47:40 PM(UTC)
aidanhq

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thanks for the reply.

ill post the part number of the ecu tonight..

HK1837 Offline
#12 Posted : Sunday, 12 September 2010 9:09:40 PM(UTC)
HK1837

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Check the memcal number too.

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
Holdenute Offline
#13 Posted : Monday, 13 September 2010 8:48:26 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Holdenute
Not sure it matters, but I've got crank on mine.


Think I may have given you a bum steer here. Got mixed up between accessories and ignition. Wire need to be hooked up to Ignition, so that the fuel pump primes the system prior to cranking.

Never late in a V8
Never late in a V8
aidanhq Offline
#14 Posted : Tuesday, 14 September 2010 4:29:38 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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yeah thats ok mate i thought that after.

apparently the HQ ignition switch needs to be bridged as the contacts are setup that ignition power is cut when cranking.

did you experience this?
HK1837 Offline
#15 Posted : Tuesday, 14 September 2010 4:37:30 AM(UTC)
HK1837

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Yes, in HQ-HZ, when cranking the in-narness ballast resistor is bypasses so that the coil gets full battery voltage.

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
aidanhq Offline
#16 Posted : Tuesday, 14 September 2010 5:20:11 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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In theory if I join the yellow and pink wires at ignition switch, I may have a running motor?

I know I have 12v at coil on ignition but cranking is another story.
aidanhq Offline
#17 Posted : Wednesday, 15 September 2010 7:38:44 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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Ok so I bridged the pink/yellow wires on the switch and I'm still not getting injector pulse or spark. There is 12v at coil positive.

The ignition module is a reconditioned unit and is only 2-3 weeks old. When the key is on ignition my test light glows at my ignition coil positive terminal. Which it shouldn't. The light should flicker on crank, but it doesn't.???

My efi relay has ignition power, a good earth and battery source.

How can I test my dizzy hall effect sensor and ignition module to rule them out??? Coil is 2 weeks old.
aidanhq Offline
#18 Posted : Thursday, 16 September 2010 4:52:56 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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anyone?
aidanhq Offline
#19 Posted : Tuesday, 21 September 2010 11:41:58 PM(UTC)
aidanhq

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Ok done some testing
Coil doesn't have a constant earth - GOOD
Coil has 12v and so does the Ignition module - GOOD
Tested EFI relay as per manual and it all checks out (continuity etc) - GOOD
Tried my ignition module on a mates 5L and it worked just fine - GOOD

Went to test the signal wire on the hall effect sensor and it remains (0L infinite ohms) even while cranking. Dizzy is currently at EFI shop for testing as it was a new unit. Ill hear back from them. Is there anything else that can affect the signal/pulse from the hall effect?

Ive noticed that the black wire on my hall effect lines up with the red wire on my dizzy plug. Check the wiring diagram and this appears to be correct. - GOOD
aidanhq Offline
#20 Posted : Wednesday, 22 September 2010 5:15:32 AM(UTC)
aidanhq

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As for ECM partnumbers

MEMCAL - DELCO ASBX 9285 (US PAT 4,702,706) - Blue in colour

ECM -
Service number - 16183082
P/N - SL1001
* 16183082623 *
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