G'day,

I am removing my cross member, wishbones & stone guards to replace the springs, shocks & bushes on my HT's front end. While I have these parts out I thought I would clean and paint them but can't decide whether to have them powder coated or painted in 2 pac. My car is a street car (drive her everyday), not a show car. Would appreciate everyone giving me your feedback regarding the pro's, con's or tips regarding powder coating v's 2 pac to help me make a more informed choice of the best way to go.

Edited by user Thursday, 8 March 2012 7:33:24 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I'd just use a satin finish black paint. They get pretty much blasted and you can touch them up easier.

Of all the finishes available for suspension components, I believe than powder coating & 2 pack paint are the worst choices.

They are both very brittle & not suited to an under body environment. You've got to think about stone chips etc. If it's a showcar that won't see normal daily use, sure go ahead, but I think that good old air dry enamel (the factory preference) or acrylic lacquer are much better options.

Dr Terry.

I used POR15 on my EH van but for next project, its just GMH black.

I wouldnt recommend POR15 for the xmbr contrary to what they advertise.

Powder coat can be flapper wheeled (Sander) out of the bush holes and all threaded holes tapped after the job is done. This prevents any ugly edges being left when they tape the holes up. Powder coat will fade and can crack allowing moisture to get between it and the steel causing rust. Powder coat like 2 Pac will chip and is hard to touch up if this bothers you. For a show car not being regularly used either would be fine with powder coat being the better option if you don't have the facilities to do the painting yourself as most jobs are usually pretty consistent with the results where as with painters you get what you pay for and there are painters and there are painters. Personally after having been down both roads with front ends and chassis and I have to agree with an will probably go the straight enamel air dry GMH black on my next project which is the rails and front end on my WB next week, it looks as it should, factory and standard but I do want to look at that pors stuff that is mentioned because it also sounds good.

Edited by user Monday, 19 March 2012 4:44:42 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I spoke to my local car restoration business and they get all their cars (street and show cars) under parts powder coated and they have never had any problems, they told me that powder coat is tougher than any other method whether it be 2pac, GMH black or por15 and heaps cheaper. You will also notice that springs and shocks are powder coated. So in saying that I have gotten quotes for both powder coat & 2pac and the average price to have the cross member, wishbones & stone guards powder coated was $150 - $250 (this includes sandblasting back to bare metal, primed & powder coat) while the average price for 2pac was $400 - $600.

Remember there are powder coaters and there are powder coaters. A good powder coat job is tough and is resistant to bashes and chips but over the years of having bike frames and bits done I have stopped using it as it doesn't matter what coaters I use the jobs are always s***, sometimes really peely finishes and brittle. I can get better results painting them myself

Mate for a daily driver go for what Dr terry and HK1837 are saying unless it a show car or a trailer queen.

I am in the process of redoing my front end too. Dr Terry you say the factory used "air dry enamel" for underbody. What did they use for the actual subframe? I want the paint to all look the same and was going to paint it all 2 pack but after reading all this am having second thoughts. I have never used enamel before - is there any "tricks" to using it? Cheers.

Just been doing a bit of research into "Air dry enamel" and I came across the following information on a web site of a company that make's and sell's "Air dry enamel".

"As the paint is bituminous, it should not be used where over painting with light colours required or where exposed to continuous contact with oil and petrol."