VT are substatially harder than VN-VS. What box were you using again?

Auto will fit OK. I'd just leave it, manuals are a waste of time nowadays as autos are so good.

VT (and VSIII) sequential engines have more stuff on them to connect like twin O2 sensors, and the ECU is bigger. Basically more wiring and buggerising around especially the speedo connection as the later boxes like a VT will have don't have a speedo cable drive on them. So you may have to change the end of the 4L60E to one of these (not sure if this works): http://www.ebay.com/itm/...=item2a236c00d5&vxp=mtr or buy one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/...=item35c0774660&vxp=mtr

Immobiliser etc can all be switched off when you get a Memcal change, which you'll probably have to do to get the speed sensor pulses right.

I think too much is being made of how 'difficult' it is to fit a VR/VS/VT V8 versus a VN/VP V8.

Let's list the pros & cons. I'll limit discussion to autos, I agree with Byron why would you bother with a manual trans in 2012 ?

VN/VG/VQ/VP V8s are only simpler in 2 areas. They have a mechanical speedo drive & no immobiliser.

With a mechanical speedo drive you can still run your old speedo cable & just splice a speed sensor into the cable or use a T-piece at the gearbox & use both the VN sensor & your old cable. Either system works OK but the T-pieces are a bit expensive & you still need to convert the speedo signal, so the inline sensor is my choice for simplicity.

With VR/VS/VT V8s, the simple way around the immobiliser is to have the mem-cal reprogrammed. This eliminates the need for any of the dash wiring & body control module, making the wiring as simple as the VN. Speedo is fiddly though, you either need an electronic speedo head or a electro-mechanical converter like this one already suggested (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-X-3012-Cable-X-30-Electronic-VSS-To-Mechanical-Speedometer-Drive-GM-/230862308960).

The VR/VS/VT ECUs are all the same (larger) size, but they're not big enough to cause any problems. Yes, the VT uses 2 oxygen sensors, but all of that is already included in the engine wiring harness which you are using in its complete form any way, so they're not an issue at all.

I think overall you are better to use a later model V8 for 2 reasons. Firstly, they are younger & will have done less work so are in much better condition, you can bolt them straight in without the need of an overhaul. Also the l find the the later 4L60-E autos drive much better & again will be younger & in better condition. The VT V8 has a roller cam & sequential injection making this the final & best version of the Holden 5.0 V8, why not go the extra & use one of these.

The amount of work (read wiring & plumbing) in fitting an EFI V8 will be exactly the same regardless of which version you use, so do a little homework before you begin.

I've done several of these so I can give you some pointers.

1. Use the complete V8 engine harness, do not cut one single wire. Use the harness connectors from the donor car to make any terminations.
2. Put the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay & fit the complete fusebox from the Commodore & just delete the fuses & relays not required. This allows you to fit the factory air cleaner box to its regular position.
3. Fit the Commodore tank to the Kingswood & get a pro to alter the filler tube & other fittings as required. This means you use the factory internal EFI pump & swirl pot & don't need external surge tank etc. Simple & quiet !!
4. Keep the Kingwood's interior stock, don't bother using any Commodore dash parts etc. (Why are you bothering with "aircon, ignition barrel and key, gauges and instruments" you are creating a lot of extra work for yourself ?)

Dr Terry