The 202 in my vk has suddenly started leaking oil like there is no tomorrow, it empties the sump in about 250k.
The whole of the bottom has oil just dripping off.
The distributor appeared to have oil inside, I have just replaced the est with a hei type in case the housing was cracked or something, doesn't help.
Checked the pcv valve there is plenty of suction when i pull it off, I haven't pulled the hose which goes from the rocker cover to the aircleaner tho.
I was wondering if the oil filter could be blocked and cause this.
I thought it could be a build up of pressure in the sump so pulled the dipstick out an inch or so and did a 30k trip, ended up with the whole engine bay with oil everywhere so that did not work out too well, and the dipstick was moved up about 4 inches, only getting tangled in the wiring saved from losing it.
The engine still runs fine and smooth and has good power so I don't think it is a broken piston although it could be a broken ring I guess don't know how to test for that, I suspect a compression test will only test the compression rings and not the oil rings. but also there does not appear to be excessive blowby from the dipstick or rocker, although of course it did push the dipstick up, so it may be only happening when at high speed, and not at idle.
There is only a slight oil smke from the exhaust at idle but I can't tell if it is smoking at speed.

question 2..Just replaced the dissy with a hei one, and have lost the tacho, so I assume I will have to run a lead from the pink negative (green ) side of the coil, is there an existing lead behind the dash to hook into or how will I recover the tacho?
Any suggestions would b appreciated.

My suggestions on the oil were in the other thread, but you've covered those now.

The coil wire is a brown wire in the engine harness (large white plug near the brake booster). It runs to the negative coil terminal (so the green wire on the HEI dizzy). There should be a spare "bullet" type terminal hanging off the coil wires that come from the dizzy - that's where it plugs in.

Yes John, there is an extra terminal on the negative side of the coil-dizzy wiring that feeds the tach.

There's 2 wires from the dizzy to the coil - pink & green.
Pink is the 12V+ feed to the dizzy (from the + terminal on the coil, which is fed from the engine harness).
Green is the earth switched wire from the module in the dizzy & goes to the negative side of the coil (like an old points wire) and it's this green wire the tacho triggers from.

On EFI VKs, they run the same HEI dizzy as blue motors (different vac advance though) and that's how their tach is hooked up.

The brown wire is in the engine harness connector of all VKs, no matter what trim level or engine option, and this is pre-wired back to the instruments connector on all VKs, so you only need to link from the harness connector in the engine bay, to the coil neg terminal.

EST computer only triggers the coil, and it reads off the crank position sensor mounted at the back of the head (and magnets on the flywheel/flexplate). The dizzy in an EST is simply locked up (no advance mech) - as the computer does all that. It's purely used to distribute the spark to the relevant cylinder.

In the EST cars, there's a fat pink wire that runs to the coil+. The computer triggers the coil-.

To run the HEI all you do is swap the dizzy, and from the HEI dizzy, run its pink wire to coil+ (which already has a pink+ ignition feed at it - leave this in place)
Disconnect the VK's existing coil- wire (which is from the EST computer). The green wire from the HEI dizzy goes onto the coil-.
Last job to do is to hook up vacuum advance to the HEI dizzy.
This will now run the car fine - totally bypassing the EST system.

Note that the coil, leads, plugs, cap & rotor are all the same between EST & HEI, so you only need to swap the dizzy body over.

If you want, you can remove the EST computer (or at a minimum, unplug it).


As far as the tacho wire - don't touch the dash. Every single VK commodore Holden ever made already has the tacho wiring in the main body loom, adnt he dash loom. All you need to do is remove the vacuum gauge, replace it with a tach, and it's plug & play.

Where you've come unstuck with the EST>HEI conversion, is the tach signal from the EST system - sourced from the coil-, is now disconnected.
This is why you need to run a wire from the coil- to the ENGINE harness connector - beside the brake booster. You will see a lonely dark brown wire on the body side of that connector, and an empty hole on the engine harness side. Simply join onto that brown wire, and the tacho will come to life.