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HQ wheel alignment and tyre squeal
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RigPig Offline
#1 Posted : Sunday, 23 May 2021 12:26:07 AM(UTC)
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I had the wheel alignment adjusted on my HQ a few months ago and now when I do slow sharp turns in car parks and drive throughs, the outer tyre screechs.
Everything was replaced prior to the alignment check, ball joints, tie rod ends, all bearings and brake components, drag link (non-RTS), tyres, everythings new.

It was fine before but now its not.
It drives and corners ok at speed but the outer tyre squeels around every shopping centre car park.

I went though the Mackas drivethrough in the rain last week and the outer wheel was actually losing traction and skipping and jumping outwards. Didnt want to go around the corner.

I'll take the car back to him this week and re-ckeck the alignment but I know exactly what his book says and he reckons he followed these settings to a tee.

Caster deg...........1 to 2 neg.
Camber deg..........0 to 1 pos.
Toe-in...................0 to 3.17mm (1/8")

The new drag-link came from rarespares and was labelled Non-RTS on the packet so hopefully that was correct.

The tyres are 205's so not wide.
Any suggestions?

Thanks
Wayne

Edited by user Sunday, 23 May 2021 12:27:28 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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Dr Terry Offline
#2 Posted : Sunday, 23 May 2021 10:30:19 AM(UTC)
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Remember that these original HQ specs are essentially for cross-ply tyres, you've now fitted radials & fairly wide ones compared to the early 70s.

I'd be using zero to slightly neg camber & 1 or 2 degrees of positive caster.

Dr Terry.

If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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RigPig on 24/05/2021(UTC)
wbute Offline
#3 Posted : Sunday, 23 May 2021 10:34:52 AM(UTC)
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Hi Terry, what would you recommend for a WB Ute with power steering and 235 tyres?
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Oily Offline
#4 Posted : Sunday, 23 May 2021 3:11:34 PM(UTC)
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Hi Rig
Can I ask what’s the difference between RTS and std drag links, if it’s lengths then that maybe somewhere to start even if the box told the right story.
Toe out on turning is what the smoke and mirrors of geometry gives. So that your front wheels can track in different radius around tight corners as opposed to the toe in needed for road feel and tyre life when straight ahead.
Any mismatched components throw this out.
You may have someone who has in the quest for toe in left one tie rod with eg 50 mm thread and the other side with 5mm.
Or drag and idler arms of different lengths.
As Dr Terry says non std specs maybe called for, and definitely someone who is not afraid of shims, cheers
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RigPig on 24/05/2021(UTC)
Dr Terry Offline
#5 Posted : Sunday, 23 May 2021 5:30:10 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Oily Go to Quoted Post
Hi Rig
Can I ask what’s the difference between RTS and std drag links, if it’s lengths then that maybe somewhere to start even if the box told the right story.
Toe out on turning is what the smoke and mirrors of geometry gives. So that your front wheels can track in different radius around tight corners as opposed to the toe in needed for road feel and tyre life when straight ahead.
Any mismatched components throw this out.
You may have someone who has in the quest for toe in left one tie rod with eg 50 mm thread and the other side with 5mm.
Or drag and idler arms of different lengths.
As Dr Terry says non std specs maybe called for, and definitely someone who is not afraid of shims, cheers


AFAIK the only difference between early & RTS drag links is the later ones have more clearance for the inner tie rod ends on full lock. They are the same basic dimensions.

I believe that you can fit the RTS one to early cars, but not the reverse.

Originally Posted by: wbute Go to Quoted Post
Hi Terry, what would you recommend for a WB Ute with power steering and 235 tyres?


You can follow original WB specs fairly closely, because by that time everyone ran radial ply tyres.

The only thing I would add, is with power steering you can run more positive caster, to give better high speed stability, but don't go too far.

Dr Terry
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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RigPig Offline
#6 Posted : Monday, 24 May 2021 11:06:46 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Dr Terry Go to Quoted Post
Remember that these original HQ specs are essentially for cross-ply tyres, you've now fitted radials & fairly wide ones compared to the early 70s.

I'd be using zero to slightly neg camber & 1 or 2 degrees of positive caster.

Dr Terry.



Thanks Dr Terry I'll mention that info to him.
Wayne
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RigPig Offline
#7 Posted : Monday, 24 May 2021 11:10:07 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Oily Go to Quoted Post
Hi Rig
Can I ask what’s the difference between RTS and std drag links, if it’s lengths then that maybe somewhere to start even if the box told the right story.
Toe out on turning is what the smoke and mirrors of geometry gives. So that your front wheels can track in different radius around tight corners as opposed to the toe in needed for road feel and tyre life when straight ahead.
Any mismatched components throw this out.
You may have someone who has in the quest for toe in left one tie rod with eg 50 mm thread and the other side with 5mm.
Or drag and idler arms of different lengths.
As Dr Terry says non std specs maybe called for, and definitely someone who is not afraid of shims, cheers


I'll check for miss-matched components too, thanks
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