Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 30/11/2005(UTC)
Posts: 278
|
G'day guys, while this might seem stupid just a couple of questions, given I'm looking for a simple torque wrench for minor car work (nothing too advanced).
1) What price should I be looking at spending? I've seen prices range from $30-$400.
2) What do the specifications in inches refer to?
3) Should I bother considering different brands or are they all the same?
Thanks in advance, Conor. |
WANTED: GTS rims, seats and mirrors to suit HJ. |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 14/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 190
|
I bought a kingcrome one from bunnings for $90.
Will be good for most bolts on a car .
The only thing it cant do is sump bolts on a 308 cos it cant be set so low.
They usually have measurements of Nm(newton meters) or lbs(pounds persquare ince i think) |
Not the BLOODY Kingswood |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 6,071
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 209 time(s) in 190 post(s)
|
Hi Guys.
The common unit for a torque wrench are Nm (/Newton metres) for the newer cars & ft/lb (foot pounds) for the older cars. There is smaller version that was once common use on automatic transmissions that used in/lb (inch/pounds), you don't need |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2005(UTC)
Posts: 465
|
There are two main types. There are the clcickers and the thumb knockers. The clickers you set the torque reading by twisting the end, and when you get to the right torque, it clicks at you. The thumb knockers are set by sliding a pointer up the torque |
__________________________________________
Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
yeah spend about $100 and you should be right if ur only using it now and then. i used to sell them ranging from about $50 to about $5ooo, and for $50 youd be more accuarate guessing when its tight enough id sell a $400 - 500 one to a mechanic and the 5gr
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Norbar is one of the better brands you can buy, if not the best. Item number 11068 is a 1/2" drive 20-110 ft/lb (30-150Nm) $255 and its good quality stuff http://www.justtools.com.au//prod2822.htmThe "specifications in inches" just means that it
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 117
|
Conor
The most common brand I have seen in automotive workshops and TAFE coleges over the last forty years is the Warren and Brown. I have seen new ones recently for about $400.
A couple of years ago I bought an old W&B with no visable signs of dam
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
Ah that old chestnut :-) I made one of these in tradeschool 18 years ago, exactly the same. http://i9.ebayimg.com/05/i/07/9b/da/85_1.JPGThats why theres heaps at tradeschool, we all left them there. I also made one in high school year 11. Not havin
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/01/2006(UTC)
Posts: 220
|
And for Gods Sake, What ever you do. Dont use it for any thing other then Tightning Bolts up!!
NEVER use them to undo Bolts. It can throw out the tention or bend (even if you cant see it!) the main bar, Giving inacurate readings.
Dan
Never stop |
Never stop being inspired,
You may never realize your full potential. |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 117
|
Rig
Why did you leave them there? Didn't they pass the accuracy test?
Yes that is the type but I don't think mine was made at a trade school unless the schools attach W&B name plates to them. They are simple and they work but they were not cheap
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Veteran
Groups: Moderator, Registered
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 6,071
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 209 time(s) in 190 post(s)
|
Hi Guys.
jabba said
"The clickers are more compact and accurate"
I've found exactly the opposite. Yes, the clickers are more compact but a W & B type will kill them for accuracy & reliability any day. We get our torque wrenches checked/calibrate |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Guest
Groups: Guests
Joined: 2/09/2015(UTC)
Posts: 43,977
Was thanked: 5 time(s) in 5 post(s)
|
I prefer the "deflection bar" type of toqure wrench as you can both see and hear when the limit is reached. Also when you tightning up stuff and it starts to feel doggy you can look at the bar and see how far you have left to go so you can stop or carry o
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/07/2005(UTC)
Posts: 349
|
They are like everything you buy. You get what you pay for.
I've been a mechanic for 30 yrs and always had W&B torque wrenchs. Never had a problem. Coupla rules, NEVER EVER undo bolts with them, as someone else said it can change the calibration on them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.
