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the eh Offline
#501 Posted : Saturday, 1 February 2020 7:55:20 PM(UTC)
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More progress. Rusty floor sections removed and some preliminary floor work. I'm using a VT 5 litre so emissions requirement of the era need to be met. Charcoal cannister, PCV and catalytic converters all sorted and ready to go. Also sorted some transition stubs for the extractors. These allow for a really neat and tight, if needed, transition of the pipe out of each cylinder.














Edited by user Saturday, 1 February 2020 10:14:42 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

the eh Offline
#502 Posted : Sunday, 2 February 2020 7:34:01 PM(UTC)
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Well that didn't go to plan. A quick cam change and some new bolt ons was the plan. Unfortunately the motor had been left open too long before I got it and there seems to be dirt and grit in there that I don't like the look of. Off for a quick rebuild. Hopefully just a hone, new rings and bearings and head service and it's done.







the eh Offline
#503 Posted : Sunday, 16 February 2020 6:10:18 PM(UTC)
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This weekends effort. Getting rid of rusty floors, preparing for a larger Commodore tunnel and fitting an XW-XY fuel tank.




https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/86809035_2727340030719590_4613653143513726976_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_eui2=AeHCGMUUgetzNeMofrlIpGexyJkHbg3NEM71gW1dNaDlaN9Z7ecTJ6QNkdOlTI7YDuZ9TH1I2gsivhe1EVyKoGQO1NuIdtkI1SwMUxiDkk2fpg&_nc_oc=AQnGm3tn9fhoR9aMoy3KFo6nxx25gI6QqG-19bppRGYuKPRLlcplgNe5QePoCNq1q2g&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&_nc_tp=7&oh=f77204df3fd828845fe371a227e6b1d4&oe=5EC077D6














the eh Offline
#504 Posted : Wednesday, 19 February 2020 7:14:28 PM(UTC)
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Front end assembled and ready for install to mockup the drivetrain.











the eh Offline
#505 Posted : Saturday, 29 February 2020 7:58:20 PM(UTC)
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More cutting, grinding and sanding.



















Edited by user Saturday, 29 February 2020 8:01:26 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

the eh Offline
#506 Posted : Saturday, 29 February 2020 8:07:24 PM(UTC)
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Southern Chassis Works arm upgrade arrived














greenhj Offline
#507 Posted : Sunday, 15 March 2020 7:47:03 PM(UTC)
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I notice all your builds tend towards the fabricated front ends, is there a specific reason you go this way?

I am in a position to start a rebuild on my EH Prem and want to be convinced the front is worth the money for what will probably be a slow boring cruiser.




11.34@121mph NA
now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and enough turbo to smash a holden block to bits..
HK1837 Offline
#508 Posted : Monday, 16 March 2020 9:26:16 PM(UTC)
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I can comment on the front end. I chose one for the HK for power steering and sump clearance, plus modern brakes. Also gives far better exhaust clearance.

For the VT 304, dump the block and use a HJ block. Then no emissions required. Or replace it with a late VR block and deck it as part of the rebuild.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
the eh Offline
#509 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 7:25:22 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
I can comment on the front end. I chose one for the HK for power steering and sump clearance, plus modern brakes. Also gives far better exhaust clearance.

For the VT 304, dump the block and use a HJ block. Then no emissions required. Or replace it with a late VR block and deck it as part of the rebuild.


I will be using the VT block this time round. I have a Holden P&A roller cam block based motor in my EH sedan. Being a new block I just reused the existing QT engine number so I'm winning there. The ute is a 71 QT block so no issues. This one for the wagon will need to meet 1998 emmisions requirements which are dead simple. Catalytic converters, PCV and Charcoal cannister. I have all that sorted already so the advantages I reckon outway the extra effort. My engineer is OK with it all so we are sweet. The cam I am using is a very mild "towing" profile so hopefully quite torquey. Being a roller motor the lift on this mild cam is 0.558" which is huge compared to a flat tappet cam. Hopefully it turns out to be a nice mild streetable setup. Time will tell.
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#510 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 7:50:06 AM(UTC)
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Been doing a bit on the motor and also test fitted the Falcon tank







































the eh Offline
#511 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 8:30:57 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: greenhj Go to Quoted Post
I notice all your builds tend towards the fabricated front ends, is there a specific reason you go this way?

I am in a position to start a rebuild on my EH Prem and want to be convinced the front is worth the money for what will probably be a slow boring cruiser.


In the long run it's better value to replace the old front end with new technology than stay with rebuilt old technology. The coil over front ends ride so much better then any original setup, for cars without a factory power steering option you can now get power steering. Big brake conversions are standard on them.

Years back I did a comparison of cost. Buying a new front end or rebuilding a HR front end to similar specs. Costs are all off eBay or manufacturers web sites.

Total cost of modified HR front end to suit V8 in EH $4,959.00
Modified CRS HR Crossmember $645.00
V8 Springs HK V8 Kings springs $175.00
Spring upper insulators $15.00
Shock absorbders Koni $255.00
Upper Inner repair kit $120.00
Lower inner repair kit $240.00
Upper and Lower Ball joints $125.00
Crossmember mounting bushes $85.00
Wheel Bearings $65.00
Off the Shelf 330mm brake conversion inc hubs $1,250.00
Front manual steering rack conversion. CRS $995.00
Torana steering rack mounting bush kit $49.00
Lowered Stub axles $880.00
Upper and lower bump stops $60.00
HK1837 Offline
#512 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 9:09:02 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: the eh Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
I can comment on the front end. I chose one for the HK for power steering and sump clearance, plus modern brakes. Also gives far better exhaust clearance.

For the VT 304, dump the block and use a HJ block. Then no emissions required. Or replace it with a late VR block and deck it as part of the rebuild.


I will be using the VT block this time round. I have a Holden P&A roller cam block based motor in my EH sedan. Being a new block I just reused the existing QT engine number so I'm winning there. The ute is a 71 QT block so no issues. This one for the wagon will need to meet 1998 emmisions requirements which are dead simple. Catalytic converters, PCV and Charcoal cannister. I have all that sorted already so the advantages I reckon outway the extra effort. My engineer is OK with it all so we are sweet. The cam I am using is a very mild "towing" profile so hopefully quite torquey. Being a roller motor the lift on this mild cam is 0.558" which is huge compared to a flat tappet cam. Hopefully it turns out to be a nice mild streetable setup. Time will tell.


As long as you are happy it is good. The reason for suggesting the HQ or HJ block was it is far easier (at least here in NSW) to Engineer it with a modified Memcal, exhaust etc. To comply with VT era emissions (which you have to in NSW) with a VT block you have to run all the standard stuff including the stock Memcal, stock cats etc. With a HT-HJ block or LH to mid LX no dramas, you can fit whatever carb you want to these (as long as it has a sealed fuel bowl for 1/75 to 6/76 blocks), so you can run the injection etc but no need for cats.

That will go nice in a light car like an EH. People rave about LS engines. The reason for how good they make power isn't the engine, it is the modern heads and the roller cam. I'm doing similar to you for my HK but using a 1968 cast (1969 model year) 4-bolt SBC 4" bore block (simple emissions). I've stroked it to 377ci but with 0.040" bore it will be 385ci or 6.2L. Using 1996-7 LT4 alloy heads and mild hydraulic roller cam with 1.6 rockers, and about 10.5:1 compression. It will be similar specs to a 1996-7 LT4 then, except the extra 35ci and will have a Holley Sniper Quadrajet EFI on it rather than the TPI setup. The 1997 LT4 was rated at 246kW DIN, with cats and restrictive exhaust. I have a full serpentine setup like yours as well, but with electric water pump, so easy running of the A/C and power steering pumps. I'll be running twin 2.5" back though 2.5" resonators to a single stainless Gibson 4 x 2.5" muffler mounted in the stock HK location with the quad HK GTS327 type outlets. With the Rodtech front end I'm hoping I'll be able to run Corvette 2.5" Ramshorns that point straight down rather than kick back like the HK 2" ones do. I'm over noisy, hot and leaking extractors, I know I'll lose maybe 5-10 peak hp but shouldn't lose any torque.

Edited by user Thursday, 14 May 2020 9:26:53 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
the eh Offline
#513 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 11:37:10 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: the eh Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
I can comment on the front end. I chose one for the HK for power steering and sump clearance, plus modern brakes. Also gives far better exhaust clearance.

For the VT 304, dump the block and use a HJ block. Then no emissions required. Or replace it with a late VR block and deck it as part of the rebuild.


I will be using the VT block this time round. I have a Holden P&A roller cam block based motor in my EH sedan. Being a new block I just reused the existing QT engine number so I'm winning there. The ute is a 71 QT block so no issues. This one for the wagon will need to meet 1998 emmisions requirements which are dead simple. Catalytic converters, PCV and Charcoal cannister. I have all that sorted already so the advantages I reckon outway the extra effort. My engineer is OK with it all so we are sweet. The cam I am using is a very mild "towing" profile so hopefully quite torquey. Being a roller motor the lift on this mild cam is 0.558" which is huge compared to a flat tappet cam. Hopefully it turns out to be a nice mild streetable setup. Time will tell.


As long as you are happy it is good. The reason for suggesting the HQ or HJ block was it is far easier (at least here in NSW) to Engineer it with a modified Memcal, exhaust etc. To comply with VT era emissions (which you have to in NSW) with a VT block you have to run all the standard stuff including the stock Memcal, stock cats etc. With a HT-HJ block or LH to mid LX no dramas, you can fit whatever carb you want to these (as long as it has a sealed fuel bowl for 1/75 to 6/76 blocks), so you can run the injection etc but no need for cats.

That will go nice in a light car like an EH. People rave about LS engines. The reason for how good they make power isn't the engine, it is the modern heads and the roller cam. I'm doing similar to you for my HK but using a 1968 cast (1969 model year) 4-bolt SBC 4" bore block (simple emissions). I've stroked it to 377ci but with 0.040" bore it will be 385ci or 6.2L. Using 1996-7 LT4 alloy heads and mild hydraulic roller cam with 1.6 rockers, and about 10.5:1 compression. It will be similar specs to a 1996-7 LT4 then, except the extra 35ci and will have a Holley Sniper Quadrajet EFI on it rather than the TPI setup. The 1997 LT4 was rated at 246kW DIN, with cats and restrictive exhaust. I have a full serpentine setup like yours as well, but with electric water pump, so easy running of the A/C and power steering pumps. I'll be running twin 2.5" back though 2.5" resonators to a single stainless Gibson 4 x 2.5" muffler mounted in the stock HK location with the quad HK GTS327 type outlets. With the Rodtech front end I'm hoping I'll be able to run Corvette 2.5" Ramshorns that point straight down rather than kick back like the HK 2" ones do. I'm over noisy, hot and leaking extractors, I know I'll lose maybe 5-10 peak hp but shouldn't lose any torque.


I will be running a 4BBL EFI setup on this motor also not the 8 throttle body setup shown in the pics. It will run a Bosch LSU wide-band O2 sensor so getting it to run efficiently shouldn't be a problem. Emissions testing isn't really done when an engine conversion is being certified. There's a visual check of the systems to make sure they are in place but no real test of emissions out the tail pipe. Getting it passed will not be too hard.
HK1837 Offline
#514 Posted : Thursday, 14 May 2020 12:29:26 PM(UTC)
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Here you have to do an emissions test if you use a later engine but not as per fitted to the donor car. But you can avoid it if you do it by using the donor stuff as it came from the donor car, hence the factory Memcal, cats etc. Basically show that it is as it was in the donor. Some Engineers are more practical though and probably don’t care, mine is pretty good but I’d not get away with a 2000-ish block with a different fuel system, he’d at least want an old red block.
But by using an early engine block that all goes away so you can do as you want. I’m using a canister though as I don’t want fuel smells, just a VN one connected to the Sniper and tank.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
the eh Offline
#515 Posted : Sunday, 17 May 2020 8:38:19 PM(UTC)
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We built half a car this morning. This mockup will allow me to make up things like engine mounts, radiator mounts and plumbing. steering column and shafts, extractors and wiring the front half of the car. Nice and warm and at a comfortable working height. Not outside in the wind and cold.























greenhj Offline
#516 Posted : Tuesday, 19 May 2020 9:17:29 PM(UTC)
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There are pics of serpentine water pump/crank pulleys with regular type water pump then it seems like you have changed to an electric water pump?

My specific question is, who made the serpentine pulleys?




11.34@121mph NA
now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and enough turbo to smash a holden block to bits..
the eh Offline
#517 Posted : Friday, 22 May 2020 6:28:51 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: greenhj Go to Quoted Post
There are pics of serpentine water pump/crank pulleys with regular type water pump then it seems like you have changed to an electric water pump?

My specific question is, who made the serpentine pulleys?


The pulleys in the pics with the "stock mechanical pump" are stock VT 5lt pulleys. These aren't going on this build. They are going on my sedan. I have undervoltage issues, slipping A belt issues and heavy power steering feel on that car. These pulleys are the solution to all of these problems. I modified the crank pulley by machining of the front A section belt groove and modifying the front most 4PK groove to make it a 6PK. Then I modified the stock early water pump by pressing off the pulley flange and reversing it before pressing it back on. The VT waterpump pulley was bored out to fit the reversed hub. All this allows me to run the water pump and A/C compressor off the rear 4PK belt. None of this so far fixes any of the problems I mentioned. They are all being fixed by running a new 165amp alternator and old school vane type mechanical power steering pump off the front 6PK belt. The alternator has 100amp output at idle with the stock 2" 51mm pulley. I have replaced that pulley with a smaller 1.668" 42mm pulley. This will spin the alternator faster overall. The alternator is warranted up to 19000rpm so I am limited to 5300 engine rpm to keep it from exploding. No big deal as it's all show anyway.



https://scontent.fsyd9-1...4b5ddd8&oe=5EEDF653


The pics with the gutted CVR pump are the setup going on the wagon. I'm running a VN V6 power steering pump I purchased from Dr Terry and a BA Falcon 110amp Bosch alternator. I also want to run these off one belt. On this one I want to run an external Davies Craig EWP150 water pump. I'm doing this purely because I want to. Using the gutted CVR pump gives me an easy way of getting water into the motor. It is also being used as a mount for the drive belt idler and tensioner. The front cover will be remade from a piece of 10mm aluminium which will also become part of the power steering and alternator mounting structure. I will use a belt tensioner similar to that used on a LS1 motor. Not sure if I will go automatic or a manual tensioner. The pulley in this setup are a modified Big Block Chrysler crank pulley 7" diameter. Chev small block short water pump pulley with the centre bored out to fit the VN power steering pump. Bolt pattern is the same. Alternator pulley is stock BA Falcon. Idler that runs on the back of the belt is a V6 Commodore and the other idler is a V6 Commodore supercharger belt idler.



Edited by user Friday, 22 May 2020 6:34:17 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

the eh Offline
#518 Posted : Sunday, 24 May 2020 8:34:04 PM(UTC)
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I need to bring the shifter forward so it's not so far back. In a VT the shifter is floor mounted. I hace changed this to mount it on the back of the box. Hopefully this works. If not I'll keep cutting and welding until it does.

















Edited by user Sunday, 24 May 2020 8:36:15 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

the eh Offline
#519 Posted : Monday, 1 June 2020 8:12:09 PM(UTC)
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I mocked up the engine mounts. They look huge at the moment even though they are much smaller than the stock mounts. Once welded I will mill them done and finalise the shape making them even smaller.


















the eh Offline
#520 Posted : Sunday, 7 June 2020 10:38:28 AM(UTC)
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I finished off the engine mounts today. I had to take the engine mounts apart and remove the crossmember to final weld it all. Once reassembled and reinstalled all six bolts holding the mounts to the block fell into place and were able to be done up with fingers only. Very happy. Now the mounts are finished I sorted the steering intermediate shaft mockup. Nothing unexpected there. With the engine being so low I have miles of clearance around the header pipe on cylinder seven. Extractors should be a breeze.


















Edited by user Sunday, 7 June 2020 10:39:15 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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