I recently came into (free!)procession of what was originally a 1973 HQ Belmont 173 three on the column manual white ute. It was modified along the way with a WB Statesman front, blue 202 block, red head and extractors. It blows a little smoke. The body is fairly good but in time will be sent to a panel shop for repairs and paint to a neat and solid standard rather than show car. I have sourced good HQ guards, bonnet and doors and will purchase a reproduction HQ nose cone. The seats are HJ but I am looking at HQ buckets. The interior needs a complete overhaul. The gearstick/honeypot need exchanging due to repairs that were made at some stage. I have a spare automatic steering column, ignition honeypot and section to remove the gear lever honeypot. This will be a project to keep me occupied for a long time. I also have a low km red 202 with extractors, Holley 350 on a Cain manifold and electronic ignition(I think from a blue motor). It is attached to a Trimatic. My thoughts are to transplant this complete unit in. I know that the conversion process is usually the opposite, auto to manual. I am looking for a Sunday cruiser rather than a drag car and have enough quick cars already. There will be some issues such as modifying my current accelerator linkages or moving to a cable setup but my first question is in regard to the pedal box. I have not had a close look but will it be as simple as removing the clutch pedal and bolting in an automatic brake pedal? I am not a mechanic but intend to slowly and methodically progress through this, doing as much myself as I possibly can.

Thanks HK1837. That sounds like the simplest way. Fortunately the cowl was not changed over and it was left mismatched. I like the HJ seats but may be able get hold of some immaculate HQ houndstooth Monaro seats. If not, I will repair the HJ seats as they are not too bad.

My car has disc brakes with the power booster. I do not know if they were fitted at the factory or not. I am awaiting the arrival of the five volume HQ workshop manual. I want to check if the proportioning valve is fitted. I have looked under the drivers side of the car but cannot see anything obvious. Can someone tell me exactly where it is?

Thanks HK1837. Your message box is full and I cannot send it to you.

8M80DCJ3807 9Q

I am not sure if that is a space or a worn digit.

It is J580719, it is the only Belmont ute that fits. The original mechanical configuration was 173HC, M15 3spd manual and 3.55 rear axle with front drums. No mechanical options so no LSD, no discs, no aircon. The BODY plate should be blank in all 3 x locations (ENG, TRANS, RRAXLE).

So if it has a booster and front discs probably someone has just fitted a booster and the front stubs/discs/calipers to it. The drum brake rear line has a joiner in it just forward of the fuel line rubber joint, that is where the Prop valve goes on a disc brake HQ. You might want to check that it doesn't still have the HQ style connector and switch assembly. If it does you probably need to change that for a later disc brake one with the prop valve built into it, or find a HQ Prop valve which will mean a new rear brake line as well, I'm pretty sure the front half of the line from the switch/connector to the Prop valve is the same as the pipe from the switch/connector to the 4 wheel drum connector and only the rear pipe differs. If you fit a HJ disc brake switch/connector/prop valve to it I think these are longer and thus the brake pipe is shorter so you'll need a pipe for that. For a HQ you'd want a HJ one with the single connector switch on it, although from memory a later one works, just use the HQ switch in it.

Here is the HQ style: https://www.ebay.com.au/...&LH_ItemCondition=4

This is the later style with the prop valve inbuilt: https://www.ebay.com.au/...&LH_ItemCondition=4

Here is a HQ inline prop valve: https://www.ebay.com.au/...qlFm&frcectupt=true

The HQ Prop valve replaces that inch long fitting you are talking about. The front brake line should just screw into it. But you need a different rear brake line as the prop valve is longer than the female joiner piece.

I’d just get a HJ connector and switch assembly with integrated prop valve. You should be able to bend the HQ pipe to suit it.

HK1837, with your good advice I have a reconditioned HJ proportioning valve on the way.
I have been scouting out online sites for 14 inch steel rims. I have decided to go for hubcaps and trim rims rather than original GTS or alloy replicas, although I do like the modern take on the GTS rims in 15 inch size. I may still change my mind. I was pleased to see that ROH are still making retro steel wheels for the HQ in 14x5 and 14x6 sizes. They sell for a very reasonable $80 each. The tyre outlet suggested when it is time, bring in the hubcaps and he will order one rim for a trial fit. Anyone have any experience with these?
I have been stripping out the interior and removing nearly fifty years of leaves and dust along the way. I will replace the dashboard with one from Dashoriginal. The passenger side vent spins freely. I do not have another car to compare it to. Are there meant to be seals of some sort or should I just use a washer to add friction?

Edited by user Thursday, 4 February 2021 11:52:08 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Today I received a Holden grille badge as fitted to the Belmont, Kingswood and Premier. It is in generally good condition although the red paint is non-existent. I would prefer to keep it all Holden rather than replacing the graphics with the reproduction item. If I dismantle the badge by removing the rear clips, is it possible to use paint to touch it up or is it sealed within the plastic? If I cannot repair it, I will leave it as is.

Edited by user Thursday, 11 March 2021 10:58:55 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified