Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Take the time to read our Privacy Policy.

AC Offline
#1 Posted : Monday, 25 January 2021 12:07:32 AM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
I recently came into (free!)procession of what was originally a 1973 HQ Belmont 173 three on the column manual white ute. It was modified along the way with a WB Statesman front, blue 202 block, red head and extractors. It blows a little smoke. The body is fairly good but in time will be sent to a panel shop for repairs and paint to a neat and solid standard rather than show car. I have sourced good HQ guards, bonnet and doors and will purchase a reproduction HQ nose cone. The seats are HJ but I am looking at HQ buckets. The interior needs a complete overhaul. The gearstick/honeypot need exchanging due to repairs that were made at some stage. I have a spare automatic steering column, ignition honeypot and section to remove the gear lever honeypot. This will be a project to keep me occupied for a long time. I also have a low km red 202 with extractors, Holley 350 on a Cain manifold and electronic ignition(I think from a blue motor). It is attached to a Trimatic. My thoughts are to transplant this complete unit in. I know that the conversion process is usually the opposite, auto to manual. I am looking for a Sunday cruiser rather than a drag car and have enough quick cars already. There will be some issues such as modifying my current accelerator linkages or moving to a cable setup but my first question is in regard to the pedal box. I have not had a close look but will it be as simple as removing the clutch pedal and bolting in an automatic brake pedal? I am not a mechanic but intend to slowly and methodically progress through this, doing as much myself as I possibly can.
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Monday, 25 January 2021 7:35:53 AM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
Just remove the clutch pedal and leave the manual brake pedal, more foot room!

Check it hasn’t had a HJ to WB cowl put on as a HQ bonnet won’t line up right. It may just be bogged on the HQ cowl to make the later bonnet lines match too which is a lot easier to fix.

Keep the later buckets, they are more comfortable and HQ ones are too expensive.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
AC Offline
#3 Posted : Monday, 25 January 2021 9:28:13 AM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Thanks HK1837. That sounds like the simplest way. Fortunately the cowl was not changed over and it was left mismatched. I like the HJ seats but may be able get hold of some immaculate HQ houndstooth Monaro seats. If not, I will repair the HJ seats as they are not too bad.
HK1837 Offline
#4 Posted : Monday, 25 January 2021 11:35:20 AM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
If the HQ seats are cheap, on sell them. People pay stupid money for HQ buckets. It most likely won’t be original with buckets anyway so no matter either way.

I’d look towards a 5.0L EFI and 4spd auto conversion for the future: wait until the right VQ or VP Statesman comes up for sale. And pickup a 10-bolt rear end when you can, just need to run a V8 tailshaft and it’ll work with your 6cyl fine.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
 1 user thanked HK1837 for this useful post.
AC on 26/01/2021(UTC)
AC Offline
#5 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 7:31:52 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
My car has disc brakes with the power booster. I do not know if they were fitted at the factory or not. I am awaiting the arrival of the five volume HQ workshop manual. I want to check if the proportioning valve is fitted. I have looked under the drivers side of the car but cannot see anything obvious. Can someone tell me exactly where it is?
HK1837 Offline
#6 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 7:42:32 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
It is a cylinder in the brake line, on the driver’s side.

Send me the VIN number off the car and I’ll see if it was originally fitted with front discs or drums.

It may have also been upgraded to a HJ onwards setup where from memory the prop valve is up in the engine bay. Dr Terry will know this off the top of his head so may have better info.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
AC Offline
#7 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 8:10:11 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Thanks HK1837. Your message box is full and I cannot send it to you.
HK1837 Offline
#8 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 8:21:09 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
Just post it up here or email it. It is just a VIN number, if it’s a 1973 will start with 8M80.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
AC Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 8:30:57 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
8M80DCJ3807 9Q

I am not sure if that is a space or a worn digit.
HK1837 Offline
#10 Posted : Saturday, 30 January 2021 8:50:14 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
It’ll be a worn digit, probably won’t matter. Will look it up tomorrow for you, unlikely there is any more than 1 car that fits.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
HK1837 Offline
#11 Posted : Sunday, 31 January 2021 2:25:29 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
It is J580719, it is the only Belmont ute that fits. The original mechanical configuration was 173HC, M15 3spd manual and 3.55 rear axle with front drums. No mechanical options so no LSD, no discs, no aircon. The BODY plate should be blank in all 3 x locations (ENG, TRANS, RRAXLE).

So if it has a booster and front discs probably someone has just fitted a booster and the front stubs/discs/calipers to it. The drum brake rear line has a joiner in it just forward of the fuel line rubber joint, that is where the Prop valve goes on a disc brake HQ. You might want to check that it doesn't still have the HQ style connector and switch assembly. If it does you probably need to change that for a later disc brake one with the prop valve built into it, or find a HQ Prop valve which will mean a new rear brake line as well, I'm pretty sure the front half of the line from the switch/connector to the Prop valve is the same as the pipe from the switch/connector to the 4 wheel drum connector and only the rear pipe differs. If you fit a HJ disc brake switch/connector/prop valve to it I think these are longer and thus the brake pipe is shorter so you'll need a pipe for that. For a HQ you'd want a HJ one with the single connector switch on it, although from memory a later one works, just use the HQ switch in it.

Here is the HQ style: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RECONDITIONED-BRAKE-FAIL-SWITCH-VALVE-SUIT-HQ-TA-LC-LJ-HG-HOLDEN-MONARO-TORANA/152955580304?hash=item239cdcef90%3Ag%3Agc0AAOSw-3FZJ1L8&LH_ItemCondition=4

This is the later style with the prop valve inbuilt: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-hQ-hj-hx-brake-proportioning-valve-v8-and-6-cyl/124538037803?hash=item1cff0ba62b%3Ag%3AE4QAAOSwPLBfGm6a&LH_ItemCondition=4

Here is a HQ inline prop valve: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HQ-HOLDEN-AND-MONARO-DISC-BRAKE-PROPORTIONING-VALVE/283863227815?hash=item4217911da7:g:-AgAAOSwUjJeqlFm&frcectupt=true
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
 1 user thanked HK1837 for this useful post.
AC on 31/01/2021(UTC)
AC Offline
#12 Posted : Sunday, 31 January 2021 5:35:47 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Thanks for your help HK1837 and as you said the body plate is blank in all three locations.
I have the connector and switch assembly that is shown in your first link and there is no sign of a proportioning valve downstream in the rear brake line but there is a female fitting about an inch long threaded at both ends joining the rearmost section of brake line to the forward section. Presumably the proportioning valve goes here but the male connectors do not look like they can go into the proportioning valve.
I will mull the choices and see what is available.
HK1837 Offline
#13 Posted : Sunday, 31 January 2021 5:46:10 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,728

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 513 time(s) in 489 post(s)
The HQ Prop valve replaces that inch long fitting you are talking about. The front brake line should just screw into it. But you need a different rear brake line as the prop valve is longer than the female joiner piece.

I’d just get a HJ connector and switch assembly with integrated prop valve. You should be able to bend the HQ pipe to suit it.
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
 1 user thanked HK1837 for this useful post.
AC on 31/01/2021(UTC)
AC Offline
#14 Posted : Sunday, 31 January 2021 5:49:59 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Good advice HK1837. It looks an easier part to find and an easier location to work on.
AC Offline
#15 Posted : Thursday, 4 February 2021 10:26:47 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
HK1837, with your good advice I have a reconditioned HJ proportioning valve on the way.
I have been scouting out online sites for 14 inch steel rims. I have decided to go for hubcaps and trim rims rather than original GTS or alloy replicas, although I do like the modern take on the GTS rims in 15 inch size. I may still change my mind. I was pleased to see that ROH are still making retro steel wheels for the HQ in 14x5 and 14x6 sizes. They sell for a very reasonable $80 each. The tyre outlet suggested when it is time, bring in the hubcaps and he will order one rim for a trial fit. Anyone have any experience with these?
I have been stripping out the interior and removing nearly fifty years of leaves and dust along the way. I will replace the dashboard with one from Dashoriginal. The passenger side vent spins freely. I do not have another car to compare it to. Are there meant to be seals of some sort or should I just use a washer to add friction?

Edited by user Thursday, 4 February 2021 11:52:08 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

castellan Offline
#16 Posted : Friday, 5 February 2021 10:41:23 AM(UTC)
castellan

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/02/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1,647

Thanks: 16 times
Was thanked: 27 time(s) in 25 post(s)
Originally Posted by: AC Go to Quoted Post
HK1837, with your good advice I have a reconditioned HJ proportioning valve on the way.
I have been scouting out online sites for 14 inch steel rims. I have decided to go for hubcaps and trim rims rather than original GTS or alloy replicas, although I do like the modern take on the GTS rims in 15 inch size. I may still change my mind. I was pleased to see that ROH are still making retro steel wheels for the HQ in 14x5 and 14x6 sizes. They sell for a very reasonable $80 each. The tyre outlet suggested when it is time, bring in the hubcaps and he will order one rim for a trial fit. Anyone have any experience with these?
I have been stripping out the interior and removing nearly fifty years of leaves and dust along the way. I will replace the dashboard with one from Dashoriginal. The passenger side vent spins freely. I do not have another car to compare it to. Are there meant to be seals of some sort or should I just use a washer to add friction?


There was a thin sponge material around the sides of the vents maybe 2mm thick that held the vent in position, just find something like it and glue it in to the hole, so as to hold the vent in place from spinning.
 1 user thanked castellan for this useful post.
AC on 6/02/2021(UTC)
AC Offline
#17 Posted : Thursday, 11 March 2021 10:35:35 PM(UTC)
AC

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 24/01/2021(UTC)
Posts: 54
Australia
Location: Perth

Thanks: 50 times
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Today I received a Holden grille badge as fitted to the Belmont, Kingswood and Premier. It is in generally good condition although the red paint is non-existent. I would prefer to keep it all Holden rather than replacing the graphics with the reproduction item. If I dismantle the badge by removing the rear clips, is it possible to use paint to touch it up or is it sealed within the plastic? If I cannot repair it, I will leave it as is.

Edited by user Thursday, 11 March 2021 10:58:55 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.056 seconds.