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I’ve just recieved my master cylinder back from Burt bros. When I asked about bench bleeding they said there was no need. “Just mount it up and bleed it like normal”
Does this sound right?
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It will work either way.
I prefer to bench bleed first. It is less messy & you know it is fully bled before fitting. You will then only need 1 or 2 pumps after fitting, unless of course you want to fully bleed to the wheels.
Dr Terry |
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Hi Dr Terry
I was intending in bolting up “dry” and vacuum power bleeding the whole system at each wheel. Burt’s are saying that as it’s a non pressure line . Does my method sound ok
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It takes 5 minutes to bench bleed. Do that first to make the whole bleeding procedure quicker & easier.
Dr Terry |
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I’ve bled the master up ok but I’m unsure what a “good” pedal feels like
A first I thought I had a booster issue. I’ve started and ran the car for a few minutes. Turn off and pumped the pedal, after 5 pumps the vac is depleted and the pedal is hard
Then turned the car on and the pedal will sink approx 3-4cm and then becomes firm
Does this sound normal or am I expecting too much from a 40
Yr old brake tech?
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Originally Posted by: holden05  I’ve bled the master up ok but I’m unsure what a “good” pedal feels like
A first I thought I had a booster issue. I’ve started and ran the car for a few minutes. Turn off and pumped the pedal, after 5 pumps the vac is depleted and the pedal is hard
Then turned the car on and the pedal will sink approx 3-4cm and then becomes firm
Does this sound normal or am I expecting too much from a 40
Yr old brake tech? Most of that sounds quite normal. What model series are we talking here? Some are better than others, I remember early HK had a very low pedal. It also depends what the rest of the brakes are like. For example, if the pads are new, or the rears are not yet bedded & adjusted this will have a huge effect on the pedal height. Dr Terry. |
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