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Thanks so much, I really appreciate this forum...can I ask another question... Ive heard a Celica 5 speed gearbox can go in the EH. What do you all think? Is it hard?
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quote: Originally posted by Todd64eh
Thanks so much, I really appreciate this forum...can I ask another question... Ive heard a Celica 5 speed gearbox can go in the EH. What do you all think? Is it hard?
Here is a link that may help to get an idea of the work involved. Add to this that the box height, therefore the output shaft of the box, MUST be set at the same height the original box is. Simply measure from the original box output shaft center to the floor before removal, write it down, then make sure the new box output shaft is fitted to the same dimension. If you're looking for a more drivable EH in todays traffic, great idea. People have been fitting these, & many other Japanese boxes, since they have been available. Is it hard? That really depends on the knowledge & skill set you have, along with availability of tools & equipment. http://www.oldholden.com..._5_Speed_into_old_Holden |
utility8
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Thanks, looks like there's a bit too it! Will keep thinking it through...
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I'm thinking that an Aussie 4 speed gearbox would be easier to fit than the celica...should bolt in pretty easily? Any thoughts?
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If your EH is originally an Auto body shell, then the Aussie 4 speed will fit in real easy.
If it is originally a Manual body shell, then nothing will fit easily.
There is a trick to fitting the Celica 5 speed to a manual body shell easier. Quite a few people in the EH club have done it.
Being a member of an EH club you can chat to the members who have done it. |
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Hi Guys. I was wondering if I could get some more help? I am fitting new brake lines to my EH to suit the HR Disc front end conversion. Am I right in saying that you do not boost the rear brakes? Therefore a T piece would be needed between the master cylinder and booster for the rear brakes?
Ps, I ended up rebuilding the 3 speed. Thanks for your help..
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An original HD/HR with front disc brakes has all 4 wheels boosted.
You need the correct rear wheel cylinders & brake shoes to match, to get it right.
You don't really need replace any brake lines. When I do these conversions I just make 1 pipe from the m/cyl to the booster & an extension pipe from the booster to the old pipe that went to the m/cyl.
Dr Terry |
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
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when welding new engine mounts put steering on full lock and use EH sump, so you get clearance right...and make clearance very tight and almost touching.. even if it does touch you just loose a bit of turning circle which you have to weigh up against the following next problem.............
if you have a factory manual body and you go for an Aussie 4 sp the angle of the motor and box will tilt downwards toward the rear of the box. The box has to almost touch the body, its a tight fit. even then this will cause the front uni to chop out... its a catch 22.. |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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So I have put a hr disc front end into my eh wagon. I have put hr slave cylinders on the rear with hr shoes. I have also put a hr disc master cylinder on the firewall. Brakes are running through a vh40 booster. Booster, cylinders all brand new. I have bleed the system starting with master cylinder, then booster, then rears then fronts. Brakes build up pressure/pedal just fine and hold pressure fine. But as soon as you release the pedal, wait two seconds, the pedal will go straight to the floor again. I cannot find any leaks in the lines. Why does the brake pedal keep going to floor? I have bleed the whole system five to six times!
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